Fridge WOES......Again

no matter what, you have to have a good 12volt supply. I had your problems one time,found a loose wire was the hole problem.

Does it have assist fan or fans in the back outside of the fridge to move air? If they burn out it can breathe and while freezer will be cold the fridge will not.
Just a thought.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
CHECK light only comes on IF propane FAILS to light off....nothing to do with AC operation

No pilot flame..........only a main flame when propane lights.
Thermostat controls heating cycle (flame or electric element on/off)

Low Ambient Temp (LAT) Switch.............make sure it is OFF (when on keeps interior light on causing excessive heat)-No bulb in the fridge

What/how are you measuring temps? thermometer normally but this time I used a remote probe with a t/stat outside the fridge. I can tell you it was nowhere near how cold it is when working

What temp setting.......max (5)? Yes, I never change the temp

Test for circuit board or cooling unit
Electric element leads -----unplug them from circuit board and plug them DIRECTLY into the 120V AC outlet
Run for 24 hrs

This bypasses board......
If fridge cools down freezer should be 0*F and food section should be 32*F or lower ---circuit board bad
If circuit board bad (AGAIN) then you need to check your DC System for amount of AC Ripple (Dirty DC).
AC Ripple is result of converter capacitors failing allowing AC Voltage onto DC System
To Test for AC Ripple.....just like testing DC Voltage except multimeter set to AC Voltage and then you take a reading on DC Circuit....can be done at converter or right at fridge DC terminal
Over 1 volt AC can cause circuit board failures

If fridge does not cool down (freeze might but food section doesn't) then cooling unit is blocked

Both freezer and fridge were equal temps by the time I got to my camp area. I just turned it off and decided not to think about it

I will check all this tomorrow....thank you

CHECK light only comes on IF propane FAILS to light off....nothing to do with AC operation

No pilot flame..........only a main flame when propane lights.
Thermostat controls heating cycle (flame or electric element on/off)

Low Ambient Temp (LAT) Switch.............make sure it is OFF (when on keeps interior light on causing excessive heat)

What/how are you measuring temps?

What temp setting.......max (5)?

Test for circuit board or cooling unit
Electric element leads -----unplug them from circuit board and plug them DIRECTLY into the 120V AC outlet
Run for 24 hrs

This bypasses board......
If fridge cools down freezer should be 0*F and food section should be 32*F or lower ---circuit board bad
If circuit board bad (AGAIN) then you need to check your DC System for amount of AC Ripple (Dirty DC).
AC Ripple is result of converter capacitors failing allowing AC Voltage onto DC System
To Test for AC Ripple.....just like testing DC Voltage except multimeter set to AC Voltage and then you take a reading on DC Circuit....can be done at converter or right at fridge DC terminal
Over 1 volt AC can cause circuit board failures

If fridge does not cool down (freezer might but food section doesn't) then cooling unit is blocked

Most likely not the problem......but thank you for the help

In AC and LPG mode the fridge lights are on, the burner is on in LP mode and still no cooling.

Artum Snowbird wrote:
The way you describe it is like the 12V battery voltage is low. You need to check the voltage at the converter output, and at the battery when plugged in. Your charge voltage may not be reaching the battery, and then when the battery goes low, the fridge shuts down.

It might not be the problem, but it's worth checking your battery voltage to see, and it's the source of a lot of problems that don't look like a bad connection.

My fridge was not faulting, but the idiot light dropped to one bar out of four while I was plugged in, and I found a loose negative connection at the converter. I wiggled the wire, and the inside lights all jumped up in brightness. Tightened the connection, and all was well.

The way you describe it is like the 12V battery voltage is low. You need to check the voltage at the converter output, and at the battery when plugged in. Your charge voltage may not be reaching the battery, and then when the battery goes low, the fridge shuts down.

It might not be the problem, but it's worth checking your battery voltage to see, and it's the source of a lot of problems that don't look like a bad connection.

My fridge was not faulting, but the idiot light dropped to one bar out of four while I was plugged in, and I found a loose negative connection at the converter. I wiggled the wire, and the inside lights all jumped up in brightness. Tightened the connection, and all was well.