Unlevel Fridge

otrfun wrote:

Hannibal wrote:
If my math is correct, our 28' trailer would be 10" higher at one end than the other to be 3°off level. Our fridge has shut off twice while being maybe this much out of lever. Makes wonder if the newer fridges have some protection built in oem.

When you say "shut-off", is it possible your frig overheated and was simply unable to cool?

We operated our previous trailer "somewhat" off-level a few times in the two years we had it. When new it used to regularly cool down to 26-28 degrees with 85 degree ambient temps. After 2 years, it would only do 32-34.

First thing we did with our new Jayco Eagle was install an ARP (and an EMS). Way too easy to forget to turn that frig off---especially when you make frequent rest/scenic stops out-west.

No. It was faulted out with the led flashing if I remember correctly. I'm very conscious of level after that happened so no recent problems. After reading more about it, it seems a Norcold will fault out if it fails to cool. It works fine as long as it's level so for now I have to believe that was the problem. Ours is a 2017 if it makes any difference.

It was my understanding that out of level causes the accumulation of crystals which block the passage the refrigerant. I am not sure that that is true. But I do know that a three degree tilt is noticeable.

If it worries you I would do as suggested an pull the low side up on blocks.

Hannibal wrote:
If my math is correct, our 28' trailer would be 10" higher at one end than the other to be 3°off level. Our fridge has shut off twice while being maybe this much out of lever. Makes wonder if the newer fridges have some protection built in oem.

When you say "shut-off", is it possible your frig overheated and was simply unable to cool?

We operated our previous trailer "somewhat" off-level a few times in the two years we had it. When new it used to regularly cool down to 26-28 degrees with 85 degree ambient temps. After 2 years, it would only do 32-34.

First thing we did with our new Jayco Eagle was install an ARP (and an EMS). Way too easy to forget to turn that frig off---especially when you make frequent rest/scenic stops out-west.

Ralph Cramden wrote:
If it was as big a deal as made out on these boards, there would be millions of RV's sitting at service departments awaiting fridge repairs.

May not be millions but certainly gas absorption fridges damaged by having been run off level is not uncommon and I've seen the results myself at my own dealer. Long, arduous diatribe about the whys and wherefores, the degrees of level in one direction or another, etc, don't matter to the vast majority when the no-brainer solution is to just turn it off whenever the rig is parked and can't be leveled, for whatever reason. :R

pianotuna wrote:
Damage is cumulative and may start in 15 minutes.

I agree

Larry

mike-s wrote:

bobndot wrote:
As you stand in front of an rv fridge, the tubes run right to left .
If a fridge is located on a street side or curbside wall its important to have the trailer level front to rear.

Best post so far. It depends very much on how the fridge is mounted. If mounted against a sidewall (as most are), the out-of-level due to road crown when parking doesn't make much difference (except for stuff falling out when you open the door).

They can handle a couple of degrees off level left to right, no problem. So as long as the street isn't going uphill/downhill and the fridge is reasonably level left-to-right, it's all fine.

The typical numbers are 3 degrees of plumb left to right, and 6 degrees front to back (the fridge itself). Those numbers are provided by the manufacturers and like all manufacturers specs are always conservative. 3 degrees out on a 30' rig with a fridge mounted in a sidewall, is a lot. So much so you would have a hard time walking around inside. The real number is probably around 10 degrees or more going by eye. Put a torpedoe level on one of the sloping return tubes and level the rig to that. That is how far out it needs to be for a potential problem to occur.

The danger point is where you elimate down slope on the return tubes of the cooling unit between the condenser and the absorber, and get enough upwards slope on those tubes to cause a reduction in the flow. These posts where people had a fridge blow a cooling unit because a rig was an inch out of level is internet drama, and a load of BS IMO. But this and other RV forums are chock full of opinions on how to complicate the uncomplicated so I take these ramblings with a grain of crystallized sodium chromate.

The vast majority of RV owners only know about leveling and absorption fridges from what they were told at their PDI if they paid attention, or what they read in a generic manual. Most only know how to turn it on.....maybe... and that it gets cold......hopefully. I don't see many going through 45 minute leveling rituals at campgrounds when they arrive, and a heck of a lot just back in and run down the stabilizing jacks.....close enough. They never visit nor have ever visited an RV board to read how important it is to get level, or to find out if you're 1/8" out over 10 feet your ruining your cooling unit cumulatively. If it was as big a deal as made out on these boards, there would be millions of RV's sitting at service departments awaiting fridge repairs.

The op could just put some leveling blocks or boards under the low side at the curb.

bobndot wrote:
As you stand in front of an rv fridge, the tubes run right to left .
If a fridge is located on a street side or curbside wall its important to have the trailer level front to rear.

Best post so far. It depends very much on how the fridge is mounted. If mounted against a sidewall (as most are), the out-of-level due to road crown when parking doesn't make much difference (except for stuff falling out when you open the door).

They can handle a couple of degrees off level left to right, no problem. So as long as the street isn't going uphill/downhill and the fridge is reasonably level left-to-right, it's all fine.

Check the owners manual. They don’t have to be perfectly level. Just get it within specs

Our first RV with a propane fridge came in a new 1984 26' 5th wheel trailer.
Never read instructions on the fridge so it sat beside the barn way out of level for just over a year when not in use. The fridge was always turned off "except" I would turn it on thursday nite and leave friday evening after work headed for the lake.

Just out of 1 year warranty.... I pulled it up to the house to stay in it for a couple of days while painters were redoing all the trim and cabinets in the house. Opened the door to load the fridge and strong ammonia smell. Yep burned a hole in a tube.

Rebuilt units back then had no warranty. I spent another 235 bucks above rebuilt costs for a new one. Back then they had to be much more level till around '87 or so. Then They were OK being off level a bit. See your fridge mfg and what they say.

So yeah damage is cumulative.