Holding tank valve leaks

The cables are bad, they won't allow you to fully close the valve. I replaced my cables with Barker Electric valve operators. It was about $20 more per valve, I had 2 that the cables failed on. You have to drop the coroplast, or at least cut it, to access the valves. I have had them no for almost 4 years now, and no issues.

I had the leaky holding tank valve on my fifth wheel as well. I also replaced it with an electric valve. So far so good.

There is an easy solution to this until if and when you decide to go into the underbelly.

clicky

This will contain the leak at the outlet until you get the hose attached. Install it so that nothing you may run over may snatch the handle into the open position.
If you choose to open the underbelly make the hinge towards the front of the unit with a 3 sided cut to the rear and the sides. Gorilla tape will close the wound when you are done.

bucky wrote:
There is an easy solution to this until if and when you decide to go into the underbelly.

clicky

This will contain the leak at the outlet until you get the hose attached. Install it so that nothing you may run over may snatch the handle into the open position.
If you choose to open the underbelly make the hinge towards the front of the unit with a 3 sided cut to the rear and the sides. Gorilla tape will close the wound when you are done.

I carry one of these valves. Just in case.....
Pat

I always install a blade down the external piece of pipe to prevent this from happening.

You can try a couple things... I fixed mine on the Heartland by doing the following.

Open under belly below the tank are, don't bother cutting holes, you need to expose everything.

Find the valves and remove, clean a and replace rubbers.

The valves work best when the cable sheath is straight which may not be possible but really long large radius bends seem ok as well. Also, secure the sheath so it can't move.

In my heart land I installed the valves in it the pull rod facing the opposite side of the trailer than the pull handles and mad a really big U turn using all the sheath and the widest radius I could. I also fastened the cable to frame rail and a piece of angle I bolted to the frame to provide vent the sheath from. Moving.

Your configuration may be different but my solution worked. My bro in law converted his to regular valves with a little plumbing reconfigure and longer rods so the valves are still in the heated area... If you don't plan to winter camp and donned need the valves to stay thawed, reconfigure your plumbing and install blades under the camper....

And, there is always electric valves

Bucky is correct. Simplest solution and works. Have used for several years. Ron Day

i can tel Bucky has been there.

BTW, i know a guy that left that valve closed when it froze outside. :S

Our old Cedar Creek's valves leaked some as well. Added the item in bucky's "clicky", no more mess when taking cap off. 1st thing I bought when we got our new coach was same add on valve. Wasn't taking any chances, new or not.

In my experience, with similar issue, was not an actual valve leak, but rather a certain amount of fluid remaining in my long galley drain pipe. We all know that when dumping, the coach is not always sitting level, or leaning towards the dump hole. In my case it may be about a quart of fluid, next time I remove the sewer cap.

I tested mine by opening cap, drain in bucket after returning home. Yup about 16-32 ounces would come out. Now I would add water back to all three tanks, leave it for a couple days, open sewer cap...nothing, no leaks. So next time out camping, pull up to dump station, open sewer cap...nothing. When returning home, after dump, open sewer cap...yup 16-32 ounces run out.

I did buy a twist on valve, in case I really need it, or want to use 2 40 gal grey tanks as one. My solution was to buy a new sewer cap, with garden hose attachment/with cap. Now when ready to dump, I hold hose under garden hose cap, loosen slowly, let the 20 ounces go into sewer hose, before opening 3" sewer cap. Now hook up sewer hose, and start dump process.

Just a simple way to avoid a mess, and keep shoes dry!

Jerry

Thanks for all the advice. It seems the easiest and simplest solution is to add another blade.