smkettner wrote:
RustyJC wrote:
Charlie D. wrote:
smkettner wrote:
If you start fully charged and always arrive at the destination with power to plug in then no go ahead and pull the fuse.
If and ONLY if you know that your battery (ies) will not discharge below voltage needed to apply brakes to your rig if it should become detached. How is one to know if the batteries are being discharged below the safe level while driving without charging thus shortening their life?
Amazing how many people don't remember that the PRIMARY purpose of the trailer battery(ies) is to operate the trailer brakes in case of breakaway. Providing the 12VDC for lights, furnace, fridge controls, etc. is just a fringe benefit. That's why it's so critical to keep the trailer battery(ies) charged and why I'd never even consider eliminating the +12VDC feed from the truck.
Rusty
I will say it again. If you start with a fully charged battery it will work fine. The battery will retain plenty of power to operate the emergency brakes even after running the fridge etc. on a 18 hour drive.
If the battery cannot provide that power you have a defective battery, not a charging connection issue.
You can say it until the cows come home. You don't know how much charge is left in the battery at the end of a 10-12 hour travel day, especially in my rig that operates a residential fridge off an inverter while we're traveling. You think I should disconnect MY trailer batteries from the tow vehicle? SMH.
Rusty
