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DazedNConfused's avatar
DazedNConfused
Explorer
Jul 17, 2013

JT Strong Arm Installation Question

'Afternoon, everyone. I just picked up the JT Strong Arm kit from my local CW for my 5th wheel. Got the over 58" kit as my legs are 59 1/2" apart. I haven't unboxed everything yet (picked up the kit at lunch) to know exactly what is inside, but I was watching this installation video: clicky In the video, Sonny talks about some accessory kits that may be needed and I'm trying to determine if I need anything additional...or if everything is already included in the kit I have.

For instance, there are brackets that are needed for those that have electric rear stabilizers -- which allow the JT tube to be mounted and still have enough clearance when the legs are retracted. If you look at The Mobile Outfitters website: clicky and scroll to the bottom and look at the accessories, part# 314597 -- Electric jack pad adapter kit. For those that have installed this kit, do I need to purchase this adapter kit or anything else to mount the stabilizer bars? I plan to hit the install early Saturday morning in hopes to be done by lunch and before the hottest part of the day -- and of course we all know how frustrating it can be to be in the middle of a job and realize you don't have everything you need. Figured I'd get a jump on ordering anything needed before I get home tonight and can tear into the box to see what's included.

Thanks in advance,
- DNC

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  • JRS___B's avatar
    JRS___B
    Explorer
    Jul 17, 2013
    If you have scissor jacks, you do not need the accessory bracket.

    If you do not have scissor jacks, you will have to buy the accessory bracket.

    If you have a cross-member handy/visible to attach the rear JT to, then you do not need the angle iron.

    If there is no nearby cross-member to attach to, then you have to fabricate one of your own. An angle bracket, U-channel, box channel, or 1/4 inch flat stock will all work.
  • DazedNConfused's avatar
    DazedNConfused
    Explorer
    Jul 17, 2013
    lee worsdell wrote:
    I bought 3/8 self tapping screws,they went right into the frame with a impact gun. they hold it well


    I was thinking of drilling pilot holes and then using my impact driver - and of course would like to get it right the first time. :) Can I ask why you didn't use the self-tapping screws that came with the kit?

    Thanks.
  • lee_worsdell's avatar
    lee_worsdell
    Explorer
    Jul 17, 2013
    I bought 3/8 self tapping screws,they went right into the frame with a impact gun. they hold it well
  • DazedNConfused's avatar
    DazedNConfused
    Explorer
    Jul 17, 2013
    Grady23 wrote:
    The reason for the angle iron is due to the pull-out carrier on the rear of the 5'er. It is mounted on a slide and frame work that interferes with access to the crossmember. I'm not sure what adapter your refering to as I only viewed the video of the sissor jack install.


    Got'cha. Okay...thanks for the clarification.
  • Grady23's avatar
    Grady23
    Explorer
    Jul 17, 2013
    The reason for the angle iron is due to the pull-out carrier on the rear of the 5'er. It is mounted on a slide and frame work that interferes with access to the crossmember. I'm not sure what adapter your refering to as I only viewed the video of the sissor jack install.
  • DazedNConfused's avatar
    DazedNConfused
    Explorer
    Jul 17, 2013
    Grady23 wrote:
    I just installed the front 4arms on my Cougar. HINT: IF you don't already have them -- BUY a set of HIGH QUALITY drill bits and a tap/die set. You will need the 3/8 - 16 tap to do the holes in the frame. The "Self-tapping screws that are provided do not have enough taper to start and cut well. They work fine AFTER you have cut the new threads. I have a drill bit set from Dewalt, with the "bullet tip" and they worked great. Be sure to use oil on the tap and remember to turn in for one full turn and then back up about a half-turn as you cut the thread. I've found out by talking with Sonny that I need to buy an additional 2"x3"x6' piece of angle iron and bolt or weld it to the support for the rear carrier that my unit has. I haven't had time or weather to add the bracket and rear arms as of yet and only have manual sissor jacks to deal with anyway.


    Thanks for the tips. Is the angle iron needed for the rear because you have scissor jacks and need a place to mount the inner points of the rear stabilizer bars?

    EDIT: Sorry....didn't see the last part of your note about having scissor jacks. I won't need the angle iron...but I may need that added accessor I mentioned in my initial note. You didn't find those brackets included in the box, did you?
  • Grady23's avatar
    Grady23
    Explorer
    Jul 17, 2013
    I just installed the front 4arms on my Cougar. HINT: IF you don't already have them -- BUY a set of HIGH QUALITY drill bits and a tap/die set. You will need the 3/8 - 16 tap to do the holes in the frame. The "Self-tapping screws that are provided do not have enough taper to start and cut well. They work fine AFTER you have cut the new threads. I have a drill bit set from Dewalt, with the "bullet tip" and they worked great. Be sure to use oil on the tap and remember to turn in for one full turn and then back up about a half-turn as you cut the thread. I've found out by talking with Sonny that I need to buy an additional 2"x3"x6' piece of angle iron and bolt or weld it to the support for the rear carrier that my unit has. I haven't had time or weather to add the bracket and rear arms as of yet and only have manual sissor jacks to deal with anyway.

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