I curious if anyone else is having trouble with their auto level system. Mine is on a 2013 Voltage 3905. I brought mine to dealer after the first use becuase the right rear jack never came down or the middle two jacks either. They said it was fixed, I took it back out again and the front and rear jacks lifted the front and rear axle off the ground and the middle jacks never came down (it was never level- it read out of stroke). I was on level ground and had 5" word of pads under rear jacks. I wonder if the gyros on not sequenced or operating properly.Thanks for any insight.

I had the same problem, I had to manually calibrate it, you dealer should be able to give you the instructions.However every now and again the center jacks will not come down all the way and I have to do another autolevel.

Think of the auto level as more of an auto stabilizing system. You need to get the trailer pretty level before using the system. If there are any low spots build them up with pads or wood under the jacks and if necessary under the tires. Think of the "out of stroke" message from the system as one of the jacks (or more) can't extend far enough to do its job of getting that portion of the trailer level. Just like if you had traditional hand crank jacks and one of them extends down all the way yet doesn't touch the ground. When the system goes into the out of stroke mode, it stops all jacks, so if your middle jacks are not coming down, it tells me that on one of the four corners the jack has extended as far as it can go and halted the system. Using a traditional level on the floor or counter you can tell which way the trailer needs to do, retract all the legs (except the front two) build up under the jack that has extended to its full stroke, then try again. We mainly dry camp or boondock, so I never have a very level surface, I carry blocks to put under jacks. Once you get the hang of how the system works, you will LOVE it. I hope this helps?

I just got off the phone with LCI and they told me that I need a group 27 battery to fix the problem since the motor is pulling too many amps (spikes). They said that 90% of problems like this are from lack of available amps. I currently have 2 Interstate deep cycles in parrallel.What kind of battery do you run (those who have a functioning system)?

gravessat wrote:I had the same problem, I had to manually calibrate it, you dealer should be able to give you the instructions.However every now and again the center jacks will not come down all the way and I have to do another autolevel.The dealer has recalibarated it twice for me, I am still getting the same result. I am bringing plenty of wood for pads where needed, not sure what else to do.

gravessat wrote:I had the same problem, I had to manually calibrate it, you dealer should be able to give you the instructions.However every now and again the center jacks will not come down all the way and I have to do another autolevel.Do your center jacks come down last when they do work?

LCI Auto Level troubles- 6 pt electric | Good Sam Community

remoandiris
Explorer
Jul 23, 2013
maxx1015 wrote:
Should u put wood or blocks under the pads of the 6pt jacks or not

In the 5er forum, I asked folks who have similar systems if they use blocks. Most do. Doesn't mean they are needed though. IMO, blocks help spread the weight over a larger area. Most, if not all, foot pads on these systems are fairly large.
maxx1015
Explorer
Jul 23, 2013
Should u put wood or blocks under the pads of the 6pt jacks or not
720Deere
Explorer
Jul 01, 2013
The system works just fine on its own. I use 2"x8"x8" wood blocks under the jacks for stability, but other than that I never see the need for large amounts of cribbing. I've had the trailer on ground that was far enough out of level that I had the wheels several inches off the ground on one side to get the trailer level. Basically if the system doesn't do its job with the push of a button, something is wrong!
joebedford
Nomad II
Jul 01, 2013
Dave Wilburn wrote:
The front and rear jacks level the trailer. The middle jacks only come down to act as stabilizers when the others have it level. The middle and rear jacks only have 4" of stroke (if they were longer. They would stick up through the floor).
When you park the trailer, cycle through the screens until it tells you exactly how far out of level you are. You need to get the trailer to within 1 degree of level side to side first. More than that and the rear jacks won't have enough stroke to get it level. Id you are on a soft surface, dig small holes for each tire and park with the tires in those holes. On a hard surface, drive onto blocks to raise the low side. Once that is done, drop the front landing gear and unhook. Then raise or lower the front until the trailer is within 1 degree of level again. Then put blocks under the rear and middle jacks. The. You are then ready to push the auto level button.
You have to get it close the old fashioned way, it then does the fine leveling and stabilizes the trailer. Once you do it right a couple times, you'll get the hang of it and you'll be set up drinking a beer 5 minutes after pulling in.
That sounds more complicated / more work than just putting planks under the wheels.
bighog01
Explorer
Jun 30, 2013
Agree with JohnBoy! That is way too much work! Especially with that system.
JohnBoyToo
Explorer
Jun 30, 2013
Dave Wilburn wrote:
The front and rear jacks level the trailer. The middle jacks only come down to act as stabilizers when the others have it level. The middle and rear jacks only have 4" of stroke (if they were longer. They would stick up through the floor).
When you park the trailer, cycle through the screens until it tells you exactly how far out of level you are. You need to get the trailer to within 1 degree of level side to side first. More than that and the rear jacks won't have enough stroke to get it level. Id you are on a soft surface, dig small holes for each tire and park with the tires in those holes. On a hard surface, drive onto blocks to raise the low side. Once that is done, drop the front landing gear and unhook. Then raise or lower the front until the trailer is within 1 degree of level again. Then put blocks under the rear and middle jacks. The. You are then ready to push the auto level button.
You have to get it close the old fashioned way, it then does the fine leveling and stabilizes the trailer. Once you do it right a couple times, you'll get the hang of it and you'll be set up drinking a beer 5 minutes after pulling in.

And the purpose of an auto leveling system is what ?:-) :-) :-)

I would be livid if I had paid 3k+ for leveling system and had to do that !!!!
Sledge_Hammer
Explorer
Feb 06, 2013
When I first set my unit up, the auto level system told me I was level, but I was really listing to one side. It was out 1/4 inch on a 10 inch level! Called the dealer and they said "they are really new to us, why don't you call LCI" I did and the tech talked me through the recalibration. First you set it to manual mode and level the unit with a level. Then you turn the system off. With the system off you hit the front button 10 times and the rear button 10 times. The system will turn back on and gives a message of which I do not remember the words and you hit enter. System all fixed after that.
byronlj
Explorer
Feb 06, 2013
This post makes me appreciate my Ground Control level system even more.
Dave
gravessat
Explorer
Feb 05, 2013
Giggitygoo wrote:
gravessat wrote:
I had the same problem, I had to manually calibrate it, you dealer should be able to give you the instructions.

However every now and again the center jacks will not come down all the way and I have to do another autolevel.

Do your center jacks come down last when they do work?

Yes and now that I think about it I bet my battery was low when I had the rare problem with the center ones not coming down all the way.

If I were you I would get the instructions and a long level and level it and calibrate it yourself on a flat hard surface the first time, they told me the sensor was on the underside of the floor above the middle axel, I also made the front just a little higher than the back, but not much that way my AC condensation drip was at the back when the AC was running.
Giggitygoo
Explorer
Feb 05, 2013
Dave Wilburn wrote:
The front and rear jacks level the trailer. The middle jacks only come down to act as stabilizers when the others have it level. The middle and rear jacks only have 4" of stroke (if they were longer. They would stick up through the floor).
When you park the trailer, cycle through the screens until it tells you exactly how far out of level you are. You need to get the trailer to within 1 degree of level side to side first. More than that and the rear jacks won't have enough stroke to get it level. Id you are on a soft surface, dig small holes for each tire and park with the tires in those holes. On a hard surface, drive onto blocks to raise the low side. Once that is done, drop the front landing gear and unhook. Then raise or lower the front until the trailer is within 1 degree of level again. Then put blocks under the rear and middle jacks. The. You are then ready to push the auto level button.
You have to get it close the old fashioned way, it then does the fine leveling and stabilizes the trailer. Once you do it right a couple times, you'll get the hang of it and you'll be set up drinking a beer 5 minutes after pulling in.

Appreciate the idea, I'll give it a shot.
Makes sense, that way the system does not have to work so long to level.

I' bet I'll be drinking a beer in under 5 minutes after pulling in!