Looking for a Fifth Wheel hitch with single, wrap around jaw

RAS43 wrote:

Mile High wrote:
But I'm betting you don't have a Reese hitch and I'm sure Hitchhiker doesn't use Lippert frames, so I ask again, what qualifies you to make such conclusions?? Or maybe you do campground surveys as well :R

Actually, I believe that Hitchhiker did use Lippert frames on certain models for a period of time. But they were built to NUWA's spec and inspected before assembly.

JMO ;)

NuWa (HitchHiker) did have some Lippert frame issues, even built to their "Specifications". Lippert is Lippert as far as I am concerned.

My HH has a Youngs Welding frame.

ken

RAS43 wrote:

Mile High wrote:
But I'm betting you don't have a Reese hitch and I'm sure Hitchhiker doesn't use Lippert frames, so I ask again, what qualifies you to make such conclusions?? Or maybe you do campground surveys as well :R

Actually, I believe that Hitchhiker did use Lippert frames on certain models for a period of time. But they were built to NUWA's spec and inspected before assembly.

And I also have a Reese 20k hitch that I bought in 1996. It has been on 3 trucks and pulled 2 trailers over that time. Except for regular maintenance I have not had any issues and only this year did I replace the 2 springs that close the jaws and hold the handle. As for campground surveys, I'll leave those to others as I have more to do when camping then drum up justifications for knocking a product. JMO ;)

X2 on that

Mile High wrote:
But I'm betting you don't have a Reese hitch and I'm sure Hitchhiker doesn't use Lippert frames, so I ask again, what qualifies you to make such conclusions?? Or maybe you do campground surveys as well :R

Actually, I believe that Hitchhiker did use Lippert frames on certain models for a period of time. But they were built to NUWA's spec and inspected before assembly.

And I also have a Reese 20k hitch that I bought in 1996. It has been on 3 trucks and pulled 2 trailers over that time. Except for regular maintenance I have not had any issues and only this year did I replace the 2 springs that close the jaws and hold the handle. As for campground surveys, I'll leave those to others as I have more to do when camping then drum up justifications for knocking a product. JMO ;)

dieseltruckdriver wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

mobilcastle wrote:
If you are looking to replace your hitch you might want to look at B&W hitches. I have a Companion and it is very easy to hook up or disconnect. It is not a full wrap around but uses two heavy jaws that close around the pin. Good luck with your new hitch.

The B&W does fully enclose around the kingpin with 1" this jaws. And as said earlier there is no reason to do a pull test with a B&W. A simple glance will tell you the jaws are around the kingpin.

Seriously look at the B&W I went from a RBW and I "thought" it was a good hitch. No comparison!

I agree 100%.

I didn't do pull tests when I drove professionally, hauling doubles at 120,000 lbs, and I don't do them now with a little 5er.

Get under there and look to make sure you are hooked up.

Most stating they do pull tests have no idea how much throttle is really needed to pull out from under a trailer, especially when all the weight is on it. You really owe it to yourself to try it. Just barely take the weight off your landing gear, open your hitch, and pull out from under your trailer. I have done it, both with my semi, and my 5er. If you aren't doing a pull test at that amount of throttle, it doesn't really mean anything more than your trailer brakes are working!

Yes there is a story behind the reason I choose not to do pull tests.

Don't want to get in a back and forth on this point of a pull test. But one thing I will have to disagree on when you compare a pull tests between a commercial tractor/trailer and a RV fifth wheel. It don't take much throttle to get out from under a FW if your jaws aren't locked.

My buddy (triple axle toy hauler) had to have a fellow camper move his fiver for him because my buddy's truck was broke down. The guy hooks up and gets it moved to a spot in the CG. The guy gets out and before my buddy could lower his front legs the guy pulls his lever on the hitch. The fiver immediately rolls back off the hitch and slams onto the guy's truck's bedrails!

Now that didn't take much throttle with about 4,000 pounds of pin weight now did it.

:h

Lets see.....


Been around here for what, about 11 years now, since 2003 or so. Since I have a fifth wheel too, of course I read that section of the forum.

Literally dozens if not more threads on dropped fivers.

Mechanical error was in the vast minority of problems reported. For example a spring broke on an RBW sliding bar hitch once and allowed the bar to slide open while towing and dropped the fiver.

Most all dropped threads had Reese hitch as the common factor. But it appears most all high hitched and did not do a pull test.

Operator error. As Spock would say, a logical conclusion.

No campground survey. Shoot, tough to learn that way in my mind anyway. Yes, you can surely see what equipment others own and operate, but unless one stops, talks, and takes a survey, you only have the visual information.

So it is back to the forum here where, if one keeps an open mind and reads a lot (as I have done over the years) you can actually observe and learn a few things.

Now comparing the Reese hitch to Lippert reported problems??? I don't agree with that.

I just do not recall many or in fact any, threads reporting mechanical problems with the Reese causing a dropped fiver.

Operator error again was the overriding cause.

Cummins12V98 wrote:

up2nogood wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

RAS43 wrote:

The Mad Norsky wrote:

Mile High wrote:
So how does a truck camper guy come to that conclusion?

First, anyone who has hung around here and reads often can come to the same conclusion.

Second, I don't list everything I RV with. Since you want to know, I've also got a 35 foot Hitchhiker fifth wheel I tow around the country.

Good job!! :B

I came to the conclusion by walking campgrounds for many years and the 3 hitches associated with dropped RV's and damaged beds are REESE by far #1, Husky#2 and Valley #3.

I agree REESE sells more but there is something about the design that makes them more likely than others to have the dreaded dented bed.

You seem to be the only one that has taken a survey of hitches while looking in the back of pickups in campgrounds., and you seem to be an expert on hitch design .So here is some questions for you, what is there about the design of the three mentioned hitches that would cause more drops then a B&W, and what makes the B&W in your opinion so far superior in design.

I will fill you in on my reese hitch, It has a one inch thick wrap around jaw, it closes when backed into, the jaw can be seen in the closed position, the handle is in the closed position , and the locking pin is inserted its hitched. Now not being familiar with the design of the B&W is there some difference in how it operates. Does it close when backed into, or do you have to close it, do you have to insert a locking pin after the handle is closed etc etc. Just curious as to what the B&W does that others don't, and seems to be near impossible to drop a fifth wheel, and no need for a pull test. One other question what is the purpose of being able to LOCK the B&W in the OPEN position .

I don't claim to be an expert. I just know that there is something about the design of the Reese and other similar hitches that have the high handle that make them ore likely to drop. I have been asking what could be the issue for a long time.

Sounds like your design is fairly simple as is the B&W. The B&W has a 1" thick fully wrapping clam shell design. As I back into it the handle and jaws will close. I usually have to push the handle into the fully closed position and then I LOCK the handle closed. Not sure why you can lock the handle open??? I will never do that. One person mentioned they had theirs locked open and drove off and BAM!

I think the simplicity of the B&W's design is a bonus. The biggest thing with any hitch is to really stay focused on your step by step process.

I had a RBW that had a sliding bar that I thought was great until a friend suggested I try the B&W and since I have been very satisfied. If I were to change to another brand it would be the Hensley TrailerSaver with air ride system. They have a similar hitch design that is simple and solid.

Mine is not a clamshell, and yes it is very simple a one piece wrap around jaw, that closes when backed into. The one thing I don't know is if it will stay closed without the locking pin in the handle, and I don't plan on finding out, but if it does come undone with the locking pin out, then that could be a lot of the reason, as you claim, for the reese being the #1 in dropped fifth wheels, and admit that would be a bad design. Clamshell as you call to me means a two jaw that clamps around the king pin from both sides.

fj12ryder wrote:
Shoot, I can answer those questions about the B&W hitch.

It not only closes when backed into, it locks. You can back into it and immediately drive off if you so wished. I know, I have done it. I didn't realize I hadn't pinned the handle until I was out of the campground and down the road.

The pin keeps the handle in the closed position, but you could drive without it being pinned. There is no mistaking the closing/locking of the jaws. They will not open without interaction between a person and the handle. No handle pull, no opening.

The jaws close around the pin and you can easily see the jaws around the 5th wheel pin.

The only reason I can think of for the ability to lock open the handle is that sometimes the hitch can be a bit finicky about letting go of the pin. If there is pressure on the pin, sometimes the jaws won't open. Which, if you think about it, is a good thing. The handle doesn't physically open the jaws, it only allows the jaws to open.

You are probably correct about the ability to lock the jaws open.

fj12ryder wrote:
Shoot, I can answer those questions about the B&W hitch.

It not only closes when backed into, it locks. You can back into it and immediately drive off if you so wished. I know, I have done it. I didn't realize I hadn't pinned the handle until I was out of the campground and down the road.

The pin keeps the handle in the closed position, but you could drive without it being pinned. There is no mistaking the closing/locking of the jaws. They will not open without interaction between a person and the handle. No handle pull, no opening.

The jaws close around the pin and you can easily see the jaws around the 5th wheel pin.

The only reason I can think of for the ability to lock open the handle is that sometimes the hitch can be a bit finicky about letting go of the pin. If there is pressure on the pin, sometimes the jaws won't open. Which, if you think about it, is a good thing. The handle doesn't physically open the jaws, it only allows the jaws to open.

What locks the jaw ,and do you have to open the jaw to hitch up. Its been mentioned there is no need to actually lock the handle

up2nogood wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

RAS43 wrote:

The Mad Norsky wrote:

Mile High wrote:
So how does a truck camper guy come to that conclusion?

First, anyone who has hung around here and reads often can come to the same conclusion.

Second, I don't list everything I RV with. Since you want to know, I've also got a 35 foot Hitchhiker fifth wheel I tow around the country.

Good job!! :B

I came to the conclusion by walking campgrounds for many years and the 3 hitches associated with dropped RV's and damaged beds are REESE by far #1, Husky#2 and Valley #3.

I agree REESE sells more but there is something about the design that makes them more likely than others to have the dreaded dented bed.

You seem to be the only one that has taken a survey of hitches while looking in the back of pickups in campgrounds., and you seem to be an expert on hitch design .So here is some questions for you, what is there about the design of the three mentioned hitches that would cause more drops then a B&W, and what makes the B&W in your opinion so far superior in design.

I will fill you in on my reese hitch, It has a one inch thick wrap around jaw, it closes when backed into, the jaw can be seen in the closed position, the handle is in the closed position , and the locking pin is inserted its hitched. Now not being familiar with the design of the B&W is there some difference in how it operates. Does it close when backed into, or do you have to close it, do you have to insert a locking pin after the handle is closed etc etc. Just curious as to what the B&W does that others don't, and seems to be near impossible to drop a fifth wheel, and no need for a pull test. One other question what is the purpose of being able to LOCK the B&W in the OPEN position .

I don't claim to be an expert. I just know that there is something about the design of the Reese and other similar hitches that have the high handle that make them ore likely to drop. I have been asking what could be the issue for a long time.

Sounds like your design is fairly simple as is the B&W. The B&W has a 1" thick fully wrapping clam shell design. As I back into it the handle and jaws will close. I usually have to push the handle into the fully closed position and then I LOCK the handle closed. Not sure why you can lock the handle open??? I will never do that. One person mentioned they had theirs locked open and drove off and BAM!

I think the simplicity of the B&W's design is a bonus. The biggest thing with any hitch is to really stay focused on your step by step process.

I had a RBW that had a sliding bar that I thought was great until a friend suggested I try the B&W and since I have been very satisfied. If I were to change to another brand it would be the Hensley TrailerSaver with air ride system. They have a similar hitch design that is simple and solid.

Well as I posted eariler I have run over 20 miles of highway, city, country roads stop and go driving over railroad tracks and bumpy roads with my Reese twin jaw UNLOCKED! No issues I could likely tow a cross the country with it unlocked and not drop the 5er!
It is the design, it will not open from the pull of the pin on the jaws, it actually makes it close tighter. This is one reason I would not buy a B&W the pivot point for the Jaws is forward of the pin, therefore the pin pressure is always trying to force them open.
This is why I believe it is issues with operator error on the Reese drops!