I am fairly new to the RV scene. I have a 2008 Keystone pull behind but am looking at getting a newer and larger 5th wheel unit. I have a Ram 2500 Mega Cab 6'4" bed 4X4 with the 6.4 Hemi. It is rated to pull 15,200 lbs. We will be looking for something in the 9K-11K lightweight trailer and try and keep the max weight below 13K or so. It is just me and the wife traveling 95% of the time, but there is the occasional grandkid tagging along at times. We are totally confused what to get. I think we've actually looked at too many RV's and there are a bunch out there. I am trying to get some real world evaluations from real people who use RV's quite a bit. I fully understand the majority of units regardless of who built them use the same components and such. But so far I am of a thought that the actual construction of the trailer plays a much larger role in the reliability of the unit than pretty furniture and size of the fridge. Any recommendations on units that are reliably build but meet my weight limitations? Thanks for any offered help. Bob

I certainly understand how quickly it starts to make you dizzy. We started looking again a couple of months ago and I had to push it aside for a bit.Nobody makes a bad 5er, so you're off to a good start :). Until you get into custom builds, I don't think you will see a dimes worth of difference in quality - they all are less than great. Take your favorite ones and site down inside, get a feel for the comfort and features, and it will come to you. If you are in cold areas, know the thickness of the walls and whether they are covered underneath. At the higher weights you listed (13K), you are probably going to want 7K axles.Happy shopping.

For 5ers in the same price range, I don't think you are going to find a lot of difference in the quality from one manufacturer to another. For everyone who has posted positive comments about a particular brand/model there is someone else who posted about problems with it. Find the floor plan that most appeals to you. Then narrow it down to 2 or 3 manufacturers with similar floor plans and choose the one you like best and has a local dealer/service department with a good reputation.

glad you are asking before buying. saw a couple yesterday, have a ford 250 with gas engine. just purchased a used triple axle 3 slide 38 ft 5er. they were told it would work.I was told to always look at cargo capacity ahead of pulling.my brother says and does pull the said weight, but cant stop in emergency.we just purchased a 2001 30 ft cardinal rear kitchen. we love it. have found there are many different floor plans. when our slides are in, we still have access to what we need. we like rear kitchen over the rear chairs.do a detailed walk thru and check slides.

With fifth wheels the critical truck stat is carry capacity not tow weight. Use 25% of the max weight of the fver as a rough estimate of the pin weight of the fver. For example on a 10,000# max weight fver, use 2500# as the pin weight estimate. Then then subtract from the trucks carry weight: pin weight + 200# hitch weight + weight of the passengers + any thing else carried in the truck. If you come up with a negative number then you have a problem. This is a big problem with most 3/4 ton trucks.

Our RVs have always been chosen based upon the floorplan. Which floorplan best fits our needs.We look for floorplans where there are no bottleneck areas- for example if someone is washing dishes do they have to move out of the way for someone else to get by.We ask ourselves if we were on a trip and the weather is so bad we have to stay inside the RV for several days or a week will cabin fever kick in. Is there spaces where she can go (dining area) and do her thing and I can go and do my thing (Living room recliner) so we don't end up killing each other.I also look at the outside to determine storage, ease of dumping, utility hook up, ground clearance...etc.Like others have said most RVs are reliable and will stay together for many years of use as long as they are proper maintained and not abused.

Non 5'er----yet | Good Sam Community

55 Replies

cummins2014
Explorer
Jan 25, 2016
IdaD wrote:
Hitching any of these is a piece of cake because you can see what you're doing. I definitely wouldn't consider that a material factor in your decision.

Some on here have been pretty insistent that hitching up the Andersen is a problem, and of course they have never owned one, but that sure doesn't stop them. IMO its a great hitch, and I too have never owned one, but eventually will.
Bobandshawn
Explorer
Jan 25, 2016
shovelhead86 wrote:
you have already got a lot of good advice. How long have you had the Keystone pull behind. have you had satisfaction with Keystone? A large factor is having a good dealer to get warranty or service done. Some dealers wont work on anything unless they sold it. I have a Montana 5th wheel. I have toured the Keystone factory 2 times. In 7 years I don't have anything bad to say about the company. No company can make everyone happy. the quality of my Montana is certainly as good or better than the others until you get into custom units.

I inherited my TT Keystone from my son. I like it fine. I'm 6'6" and the interior height of this unit is like 6'6.5". LOL I am leaning towards a Cougar 327RES so far as I like the lay out, the size/weight/price is right, and our local dealer sells mostly Keystone products.
IdaD
Explorer
Jan 25, 2016
Hitching any of these is a piece of cake because you can see what you're doing. I definitely wouldn't consider that a material factor in your decision.
shovelhead86
Explorer
Jan 25, 2016
you have already got a lot of good advice. How long have you had the Keystone pull behind. have you had satisfaction with Keystone? A large factor is having a good dealer to get warranty or service done. Some dealers wont work on anything unless they sold it. I have a Montana 5th wheel. I have toured the Keystone factory 2 times. In 7 years I don't have anything bad to say about the company. No company can make everyone happy. the quality of my Montana is certainly as good or better than the others until you get into custom units.
Bobandshawn
Explorer
Jan 24, 2016
Thanks. And I see Pullrite builds something similar now. On the Pullrite the ball is mounted to the pinbox via a more substantial looking plate than what Anderson does. The ball drops into the hitch via a funnel mount so some misalignment can be tolerated. This is a rail mount setup.
IdaD
Explorer
Jan 24, 2016
Bobandshawn wrote:
It does look like the MOR/Ryde pin box can be used with the Anderson Hitch. With a lightweight 5'er as I am looking at this could be a viable option. Very lightweight and price wise not bad either. I feel like my wife in a Dooney and Burke (purses) store! Too many options.

I would recommend starting just with the Andersen hitch before you change to a different pin box. Again mine is a rail mount so it's a little different, but I'm amazed at how much smoother the Anderson tows than the Curt slider that I'm going to be selling in short order. There's no slop or movement whatsoever and it's completely smooth whether in traffic or going down the highway. Economical, made in Idaho and it works fantastic - what's not to like?
Bobandshawn
Explorer
Jan 23, 2016
Pullrite sells a very similar thing now. It looks pretty nice. Installs on the rails and has a funnel type ball mount that can stand a little bit of misalignment. The weight of it is good at 52 lbs, but I'd have to add a rail kit to my factory prep bed. That doubles the weight. The new lightweight Pullrite looks very stout and I like the pinbox adapter better than the Anderson style. The pullrite appears to keep the pinbox mount area approximately the same as standard hitch would have it. The Anderson looks like it moves the trailer back a bit which may not be an advantage at all. I can't find a price, but I wager it's not cheap. With the Anderson setup all I'd need it the gooseneck ball for my factory prep that runs $150 or so depending on what you get. The Reese ball looks pretty nice.
BTW, the majority of 5'ers we have looked at have the tapered front caps for a better turn radius. I recently watched a guy with a pickup very similar to mine maneuvering a Keystone Cougar into a spot pretty slick without a slider.
cummins2014
Explorer
Jan 22, 2016
Bobandshawn wrote:
It does look like the MOR/Ryde pin box can be used with the Anderson Hitch. With a lightweight 5'er as I am looking at this could be a viable option. Very lightweight and price wise not bad either. I feel like my wife in a Dooney and Burke (purses) store! Too many options.

IMO a very good option. Its a viable option regardless of the size of fifth wheel as long as its within the weight rating, no different then another style hitch.

If I can get rid of that dinosaur of a slider hitch that I have I will go to one of these new generation hitches. In order for me to have that big heavy hitch, and able to remove from my truck I had to mount an electric hoist in the ceiling of my garage to do so, or take the hitch apart to remove . Then a wheeled cart to move it around in the garage. All this is eliminated with an Andersen or like hitch. IMO its a no brainer .
Bobandshawn
Explorer
Jan 22, 2016
It does look like the MOR/Ryde pin box can be used with the Anderson Hitch. With a lightweight 5'er as I am looking at this could be a viable option. Very lightweight and price wise not bad either. I feel like my wife in a Dooney and Burke (purses) store! Too many options.
cummins2014
Explorer
Jan 22, 2016
Bobandshawn wrote:
IdaD wrote:

I've got a rail mount Andersen hitch in my short bed Ram and I love it. It's light, very well constructed and it's rock solid in terms of how it tows. My cab clears fine, and my fifth wheel isn't one of the newer ones with the rounded front-end. I think between the offset ball and the kingpin adapter you get about 8" of total offset.

The hitch itself only weighs about 35 lbs so it's very easy to get it in and out of the bed.

Bonus: it's made right here in Idaho.

I have looked at those and like them. They offer no provision for a cushion buffer to prevent the chucking and such that can harm both nerves and trailer frames. I am thinking the Trailair or Airborne pin boxes would be a no-no on these. I really don't want to move the trailer back unless I'd have to. But the Anderson is still on my page of thoughts.

I would have no concern with chucking and such with a Andersen hitch or for that matter the new Pullrite Superlite. Many tow with the Andersen ,and the MorRyde pin box. I tow with a MorRyde pin box ,and conventional hitch, and can see no reason anything would change going to the Andersen. I experience no chucking and such.

IMO the Andersen ,and PullRite are a great alternative over these big heavy , expensive slider hitches ,and the like. There will be more to follow as they become more popular.

There is a great thread on the Andersen over on the Cummins Forum that will educate anyone wanting to go to the Andersen style hitch .

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Non 5'er----yet

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