Anybody use one? Successfully?Thinking about getting one and running a 15A extension to the post rather than hard wire to the rig.

No reason it wouldn't.....as long as ramp is closed

is there some way to vent it out of the garage area?bumpy

Remember they must be vented to the outside.

My rig has two vents that never get used. I figured I could adapt one of those for exhaust.

I used one. I adapted a plastic storage box and screwed it over the lower side vent in the garage. I cut a hole in the storage container the AC exhasust snaped into it. There is a hose outlet for water condensation on the back of the AC unit. I ran the hose into a container ( I used a old milk carton) I closed the ramp door on the extention cord and pluged it in the 20amp the trailer was pluged into the 30amp. Portable AC was a 9k btu and it worked fine. When I got my new trailer I added a second roof ac to the garage...So, don't use the portable anymore..

Portable air conditioner for the garage? | Good Sam Community

16 Replies

joebedford
Nomad II
May 29, 2014
The garage is 8x12 = 96 sq. ft. The ducted air from the front can't keep up on really hot days. I figure I don't need much of a portable to cool 96 sq. ft. down the last 10F to a comfortable temperature.
fly-boy
Explorer
May 28, 2014
All you have to do is wire in a male 110 to the new roof air. When you arrive at your destination you run a cord from the A/C unit to the pedestal and your done. I did this for years on an old trailer and it worked great.
allcool
Explorer
May 27, 2014
fly-boy wrote:
Why not install a roof mounted unit and run a cord to the pedestal?

X 2
Much better idea. Seen a coleman 13,500 at adventure rv for $462
Not sure what you got, but might not be that hard to wire it in somehow...

Keep in mind, ruff rule of thumb if you must buy a single hose PAC, and its replacing a specific size BTU window unit/roof mount unit, or you need a specific amount of btu, double the single hose PAC BTU before you buy.

jmo
Bumpyroad
Explorer
May 27, 2014
fly-boy wrote:
Why not install a roof mounted unit and run a cord to the pedestal?

especially since there is probably already a ceiling vent in that area?
bumpy
fly-boy
Explorer
May 27, 2014
Why not install a roof mounted unit and run a cord to the pedestal?
Bumpyroad
Explorer
May 27, 2014
I noticed on the instructions for the one at Sam's club today that it gave a maximum rise of 3 ft for the exhaust tubing.
bumpy
allcool
Explorer
May 26, 2014
joebedford wrote:
Anybody use one? Successfully?

Thinking about getting one and running a 15A extension to the post rather than hard wire to the rig.
Make sure to get the 2 hose(intake & exhaust hoses) model. NOT the single exhaust only hose model that is common in the smaller cheaper units.

2 hose models work well and don't draw non conditioned air into the cooled space, and create negative pressure in the air conditioned space.

jmo
Cuffs054
Explorer
May 26, 2014
I noticed when I shopped for mine most say the two hose models "blend the outside air through the condenser with room air" so I'm guessing the two hose do suck some room air as well. I went with single hose LGs and so for so good.
1L243
Explorer II
May 26, 2014
Mine had a single vent. It took air from inside the rv blew out cold air in the RV and vented the hot air to the outside through a side vent....
joebedford
Nomad II
May 26, 2014
deltabravo wrote:
Keep in mind that as it blows air out, it's going to suck air in, which presumably will be through the other vent (ambient temp air from outside.)
Is that the difference between the "one hose" and "two hose" model? A fixed ac draws air from the room and cools it. The outside air never enters the room. Given that this is a portable, I understand that the hot side is inside the room and the hot air has to escape somehow. Not sure if I need one vent or two.