RV Crushes Truck

The handle simply was not pushed in all the way as shown in pic above. BUT the slide bar WAS behind the kingpin at the appropriate level. It was simply NOT fully hitched, NOT high hitched.

"High hitch" means bottom of kingpin is setting on TOP of the slide bar or jaws and is EASILY seen with having a large gap between the hitch head plate and the pin box bottom plate.

noteven wrote:

RCMAN46 wrote:

noteven wrote:
2 nylon plates = increased chance of a high hitch?

The release lever on either my Holland FW001 and my B&W will not latch when high hitched. The pin uncouples as soon as you tug test but you can see the jaws are not latched by the lever position. Both 5th wheels (“hitches”) are designed for 1 nylon lube plate.

And if you had tried to pull your trailer with the B&W as the OP had done you would have dropped a trailer as he did.

Nope. The handle won’t pin if the jaws aren’t locked.

People simply don't understand the simple solid mechanics of the B&W.

"BTW...I'd never tell someone not to do a pull test, no matter the hitch brand, just saying, a visual test works for ME, using MY hitch."

Same here. Not interested in a lawsuit!

noteven wrote:

RCMAN46 wrote:

noteven wrote:
2 nylon plates = increased chance of a high hitch?

The release lever on either my Holland FW001 and my B&W will not latch when high hitched. The pin uncouples as soon as you tug test but you can see the jaws are not latched by the lever position. Both 5th wheels (“hitches”) are designed for 1 nylon lube plate.

And if you had tried to pull your trailer with the B&W as the OP had done you would have dropped a trailer as he did.

Nope. The handle won’t pin if the jaws aren’t locked.

You missed my point. If you look at the second photo I posted the hitch in question also was not closed or pinned.




The white pin only shows that the king pin is in the hitch head and does not indicated if the hitch is latched.

Here he is around 19.19;with the slide bar still in lining up height. A few seconds later he shows the pin box on the hitch. I do not think he ever pulled the bar out to couple correctly. AKA high hitched. Even if the bar was not all the way in, it would not become uncoupled in the first few feet pulling forward.

Here he is around 19.19;with the slide bar still in lining up height. A few seconds later he shows the pin box on the hitch. I do not think he ever pulled the bar out to couple correctly. AKA high hitched. Even if the bar was not all the way in, it would not become uncoupled in the first few feet pulling forward.

MFL wrote:

cummins2014 wrote:

MFL wrote:
"Kinda Cool! First time in a while we are on the same page!!!!!!!"

I don't normally bait, but what the he!!

I can see a change coming soon. A 3600 in someone's future. No more adapter, or capture plate, and a visual good to go test.

Jerry

If you are referring to me ,not in this lifetime. Although the B&W is a great hitch , I never drank the koolaid . :B

Its a bit confusing on who is replying to who here the last couple pages. I assume 12V was referring to me on the same page reply, who knows :)

Yeah, I was, but just in fun. :W Different thoughts/opinions make a forum interesting. If we were all on the same page, thinking alike, wouldn't be much discussion. I've learned some things here, since becoming a member, and given advice to others, from my personal knowledge/experience. I've owned other brand hitches, but the B&W is the one I recommend, when someone is asking, due to the safe solid design, and ease of use. I've never had someone post back, or PM me, that they wished they would not have taken my advice. BTW...I'd never tell someone not to do a pull test, no matter the hitch brand, just saying, a visual test works for ME, using MY hitch. :C

Jerry

Never thought otherwise, its in all fun ,I think more then some realize.

Been towing a fifth wheel for several years, not new to it all. I do realize the B&W is the top dog. There are other good hitches out there, but if one wants to put out the money, I sure would not tell them otherwise. My Reese is 12 years old, and has been flawless , not a problem with . Its what they call their Elite series nowadays, mine has the same head .

I don't worry too much these days about the pull test, I know what it takes to make sure I am hooked up, but like you its not something I would advise against, thats for sure .

RCMAN46 wrote:

noteven wrote:
2 nylon plates = increased chance of a high hitch?

The release lever on either my Holland FW001 and my B&W will not latch when high hitched. The pin uncouples as soon as you tug test but you can see the jaws are not latched by the lever position. Both 5th wheels (“hitches”) are designed for 1 nylon lube plate.

And if you had tried to pull your trailer with the B&W as the OP had done you would have dropped a trailer as he did.

Nope. The handle won’t pin if the jaws aren’t locked.

cummins2014 wrote:

MFL wrote:
"Kinda Cool! First time in a while we are on the same page!!!!!!!"

I don't normally bait, but what the he!!

I can see a change coming soon. A 3600 in someone's future. No more adapter, or capture plate, and a visual good to go test.

Jerry

If you are referring to me ,not in this lifetime. Although the B&W is a great hitch , I never drank the koolaid . :B

Its a bit confusing on who is replying to who here the last couple pages. I assume 12V was referring to me on the same page reply, who knows :)

Yeah, I was, but just in fun. :W Different thoughts/opinions make a forum interesting. If we were all on the same page, thinking alike, wouldn't be much discussion. I've learned some things here, since becoming a member, and given advice to others, from my personal knowledge/experience. I've owned other brand hitches, but the B&W is the one I recommend, when someone is asking, due to the safe solid design, and ease of use. I've never had someone post back, or PM me, that they wished they would not have taken my advice. BTW...I'd never tell someone not to do a pull test, no matter the hitch brand, just saying, a visual test works for ME, using MY hitch. :C

Jerry

There are several ways a high pin can close the hitch jaws...on any hitch.

The you tube shows the trailer looks like it was set where both plates (hitch plate and pin box plate) were about the same height. Then for some reason the actual hooking up was edited out of the vid. There is way too much gap showing between the plats....and the gap will not add up to the jaw thickness when we look at a actual high pin.

This is a typical hitch attempt when the trailer is set to high. The flange on the bottom of the pin slides over the top of the hitch jaws and touches just enough close any hitch jaws. Keep in mind the hitch plate has a bit of tilt which allows the pin flange to trigger the jaws to close. When the trailer is lowered on the hitch their isn't the same amount of gap all around. Usually the gap is bigger in the rear however in the vid the bigger gap is on one side which says a possible high pin or the nylon slip plates are waded up on one side.

I've seen this around truck terminals and loading yards which is the #1 reason for a high pin on flat parking surfaces. Scenarios change when parking surface are not flat side to side between the truck and trailer. We see this a lot around construction work sites.

The you tube'r may know what he did or didn't do...or like many RVers in the past on this website and other rv forums have said they never found out what went down. Maybe his next vid can shed some light on his thoughts or his findings.