stopping distance, disk vs drum

I installed the package from Stopyourtrailer.com. Bill is very helpful. My brakes work just fine with the factory TBC. I did not use the brake "converter". Just use one of the magnets from your old system in its place. ( 2008 Ford ). The truck just needs some feedback from your brakes to know it is working.

I was able to help my dealer install the brakes so that decreased my labor costs. It was a pretty straight forward process and the only necessary tool I wouldn't have had on hand would have been one to put the proper radius bend in the rigid hydraulic lines.

I've had three times where the new brakes really were nice to have: twice when we were in a 45 mph zone and the traffic light changed to yellow at just the wrong time and even though I braked aggressively I was able come to a nice smooth stop. The other time was when a car failed to yield from the left and I had to brake hard to avoid a collision. Those times alone were worth the cost of installation, at least for us. Once we go everything properly adjusted I found that the truck and trailer seemed to much more integrated and behaved as a coordinated unit. Before, I would feel the electric trailer brakes engage and then the service brakes on the truck would engage. Now all the brakes work together and we come to a much smoother stop. Hope this helps.

jepalmer wrote:
seems to be a solid consensus on the disks being worth the money.

Any recommendations on brand? Actuator?

Will it work with existing brake controller from 2011 Ford King Ranch or do I have to install something on the dash?

Thanks.

I got mine installed by Ron Russell from Performance Trailer Braking..
While at MORryde in June getting my IS Installed , they told me that they were starting to handle the Titan actuator , as it is faster then the others... in regards to the system , The Kodiak's and Titan's are exactly a like.. all parts are interchangeable..
Depending on your schedule and where you arte , Ron will have his installers go directly to you , if they are close to the area.

I had the Kodiak on the Cameo. They are single piston calipers and use GM brake pads. I had the Titan pump on that set up. The "lad" was nil.
My Lifestyle came with factory installed Dexter with their pump. I can tell the difference as there is a bit of lag. Eventually, I ant to replace the pump.
I think the Dexter brakes may be better since they are dual piston but they cost more and the pads can only be gotten from Dexter. I say this because of have read of occasions when the Kodiak will hang-up and I've not heard of this with the Dexter.
What ever set-up you get, get the Titan pump and run a larger line from the pump back to the axles at the split.

I also ordered from Stop Your Trailer. Call the owner, Bill, with your questions. Very helpful.

I installed them on our toy hauler. Huge difference. I think it was around $1,600.00 also.

seems to be a solid consensus on the disks being worth the money.

Any recommendations on brand? Actuator?

Will it work with existing brake controller from 2011 Ford King Ranch or do I have to install something on the dash?

Thanks.

8ntw8tn wrote:
We put a set of hydraulic drum brakes on the 5er about a year ago. It made a big difference in stopping ability, but I really have no way to give you a statistical comparison. What I can say is that there was no way the stock electric brakes would lock up the tires but it was really easy to do with the new hydraulics as I was getting them adjusted. Labor and parts was about $2200. I'd have preferred hydraulic disc brakes, but that was another $1000 and that just wasn't in the budget. I'm really pleased with them. Hope this helps.

That is very interesting, I was looking at parts and while discs for my triple axle look to be around $1200 just for the discs and calipers, hydraulic drums were around less than half that amount. That makes for some very interesting thinking.

Do you really like your hydraulic drums, and do you feel they were worth the money? I plan on it being a DIY job, so no labor costs involved. Much thanks for any info.

My two RVs with 12x2 drums were so bad, even with all the new 7k parts and heavier wire, I dreaded that I'd ever need to make a true panic stop. BTW, I verified full volts and amps at the magnets. I put on the 13" discs, the 2.5" calipers and Carlisle HBA 1600 psi actuator on my current 15k gvw 5er and they will lock the wheels. FWIW, I have a big gooseneck cargo trailer with 12" drums and it stops fine but it has much bigger magnets. The RV and cargo trailers both have Dexter 6k axles, 8 lug, 16" wheels but the cargo trailer has bigger magnets and I think the wires are white. I will try the bigger magnets if I ever have another RV wit drums. Craig

We put a set of hydraulic drum brakes on the 5er about a year ago. It made a big difference in stopping ability, but I really have no way to give you a statistical comparison. What I can say is that there was no way the stock electric brakes would lock up the tires but it was really easy to do with the new hydraulics as I was getting them adjusted. Labor and parts was about $2200. I'd have preferred hydraulic disc brakes, but that was another $1000 and that just wasn't in the budget. I'm really pleased with them. Hope this helps.

NW Explorer wrote:

jsum wrote:
Anyone had brakes changed from drum to disc know what it cost on a trailer?

Performance Trailer Brakeing installed our for $2875.00 - parts & labor.
Worth every penny! I agree with the others who have said I will never own another 5er with drum brakes.

Do it, you'll be glad you did.

Happy trails,
Bill

Thanks for the info Bill