tire air pressure
I have had some tire problems in the past so I know a lot of the do's and don'ts. So I have this question which I probably know the answer but I will throw it out here anyway. The last 2 years we have...
Forum Discussion
Before getting into this let me remind the readers of this thread that I’m not directing a response to any single participant unless I have used the quote tab to do so. This is directed at the thread subject in general.
Sometimes participants in RV trailer tire threads are more familiar with the maintenance procedures for automotive tires. Those tires (P - LT - RV - Truck) are designed to provide reserve load capacity via tire pressure manipulations. The builders of automotive industry vehicles are always going to provide load capacity reserves with the Original Equipment (OE) tires. That is not a requirement for tire fitments to RV trailer axles. Another confusing factor is the design of the ST tire. They are best equipped to operate at maximum allowed tire pressures. Trailer manufacturers take advantage of the ST tire industries recommendations to use maximum sidewall pressures. There is only one - known to me - ST manufacturer that will allow tire manipulations above the maximum sidewall pressure and that is Goodyear. So if you’re not using their brand of ST tires than don’t consider going higher with your air pressures than what’s on the tires sidewall for any reason.
There is something common to all DOT certified highway tires, Their recommended (correct) tire pressures are set by the vehicle manufacturer. NHTSA always presents a statement about that in large red letters anytime they are stressing that fact. That’s not to say there aren’t exceptions because there are always exceptions. It’s just stressing the point that normal everyday tire operating pressures are found on the vehicle’s certification label/tire placard.
The problem for RV trailer owners is the fact that their trailer’s tires recommended tire pressures are 99.9% of the time maxed out. So, where do you go from there? There is no higher to go to and surely you don’t want to go lower and enter the realm of under inflated tires that are going to start throwing the treads. All you can do is insure they are aired to the 100% mark all the time and then replace them with something that will provide a larger measure of load capacity reserves.
FastEagle
Sometimes participants in RV trailer tire threads are more familiar with the maintenance procedures for automotive tires. Those tires (P - LT - RV - Truck) are designed to provide reserve load capacity via tire pressure manipulations. The builders of automotive industry vehicles are always going to provide load capacity reserves with the Original Equipment (OE) tires. That is not a requirement for tire fitments to RV trailer axles. Another confusing factor is the design of the ST tire. They are best equipped to operate at maximum allowed tire pressures. Trailer manufacturers take advantage of the ST tire industries recommendations to use maximum sidewall pressures. There is only one - known to me - ST manufacturer that will allow tire manipulations above the maximum sidewall pressure and that is Goodyear. So if you’re not using their brand of ST tires than don’t consider going higher with your air pressures than what’s on the tires sidewall for any reason.
There is something common to all DOT certified highway tires, Their recommended (correct) tire pressures are set by the vehicle manufacturer. NHTSA always presents a statement about that in large red letters anytime they are stressing that fact. That’s not to say there aren’t exceptions because there are always exceptions. It’s just stressing the point that normal everyday tire operating pressures are found on the vehicle’s certification label/tire placard.
The problem for RV trailer owners is the fact that their trailer’s tires recommended tire pressures are 99.9% of the time maxed out. So, where do you go from there? There is no higher to go to and surely you don’t want to go lower and enter the realm of under inflated tires that are going to start throwing the treads. All you can do is insure they are aired to the 100% mark all the time and then replace them with something that will provide a larger measure of load capacity reserves.
FastEagle
