Forum Discussion

Huckleby's avatar
Huckleby
Explorer
Apr 30, 2013

To block or not to block...that is the question

My newly acquired fiver rides quite nose high. I tried lowering my hitch a notch but found that it would be likely I would strike my bed rails on very little incline. The axles on the camper are already mounted under the springs, so I am left with the only other option available which is installation of spacer blocks and longer U-bolts. I would entertain any other ideas and welcome opinions on this. My signature pic shows my issue:(
  • restlesswind's avatar
    restlesswind
    Explorer
    Apr 30, 2013
    Huckleby wrote:
    The other thing I need to consider is cost. It is a 1992 and I can't see putting much into it. Is it that vital that I correct this nose up attitude?

    The rig photo in my profile shows the level (or lack of level) better.

    With your truck/trailer combo,I doubt if you will be making many long trips.If that is correct then I would not worry to much about nose high towing.I would keep an eye on the rear trailer tires for wear,due to more weight in the rear axle
    Others may not agree.
    The rig does not look all that much out of level in the photo.
  • Cummins12V98's avatar
    Cummins12V98
    Explorer III
    Apr 30, 2013
    Me Again wrote:
    The best option is to have a good welding shop add a subframe between the spring hangers and the trailers frame. Square or rectangular tubing. While they are at it , it does not hurt to have tubes run side to side at the three spring hanger locations. The picture below is after a frame repair. It shows old subframe and new cross tubes and gussets at the hangers. Print it off and take it to the welding shop with you.

    Chris



    Did you do the work or did Smiley's?

    Looks just like the job a friend of mine and I did on our last 5er.
  • Huckleby's avatar
    Huckleby
    Explorer
    Apr 30, 2013
    The other thing I need to consider is cost. It is a 1992 and I can't see putting much into it. Is it that vital that I correct this nose up attitude?

    The rig photo in my profile shows the level (or lack of level) better.
  • Randu's avatar
    Randu
    Explorer
    Apr 30, 2013
    The right way to do it is above in photos. You can go to any height using this method so if you really need 6", you can have it built that way without risk. Randu
  • campinghut's avatar
    campinghut
    Explorer
    Apr 30, 2013
    The right way and in my opinion the only way to do it, is to have a sub frame between the spring hangers and the frame, if you need more then 2". If you need 2" then I would go with instaling a correct track system.
  • Me_Again's avatar
    Me_Again
    Explorer III
    Apr 30, 2013
    The best option is to have a good welding shop add a subframe between the spring hangers and the trailers frame. Square or rectangular tubing. While they are at it , it does not hurt to have tubes run side to side at the three spring hanger locations. The picture below is after a frame repair. It shows old subframe and new cross tubes and gussets at the hangers. Print it off and take it to the welding shop with you.

    Chris

  • AZ_T_T's avatar
    AZ_T_T
    Explorer
    Apr 30, 2013
    I'm not a big fan of just blocks, I worry of the side to side stress. We raised ours with a 4" "box" that goes between the axles and the bottom of the FW. This way there is no way for flexing side to side.

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