To winterize or not?

Bumpyroad wrote:

snowdance wrote:
w Blowing the water heater out will not really work as you leave a lot of water in it. Helped a freind replace his this spring because he blew it out instead of draining it.

it sounds like your friend didn't even drain his system including water heater before he blew it out. bad move.
bumpy

What it sounds like to me too... I also have a "pet cock", (what we use to call them), that you can open up to drain water out of the hot water heater..I also have hot and cold water drain points that also help...so when I blow water out of the lines, the water heater has already been drained..

snowdance wrote:
w Blowing the water heater out will not really work as you leave a lot of water in it. Helped a freind replace his this spring because he blew it out instead of draining it.

it sounds like your friend didn't even drain his system including water heater before he blew it out. bad move.
bumpy

I to drain the water heater and flip the bypass. They sell a fitting for draining the water heater with out removing the plug and I drain ours often because of so much lime ect in the water around here. I put my compressor on 35ish lbs and blow all the lines. Often checking again before unhooking the compressor. Blowing the water heater out will not really work as you leave a lot of water in it. Helped a freind replace his this spring because he blew it out instead of draining it.

Bumpyroad wrote:

NC Hauler wrote:

I'm a firm believe in, "Better safe than sorry" as another poster stated....I have a 39' 5er with 4 slides....I drain the 10 gallon water heater, put it in by-pass and blow the lines out, then I put the RV antifreeze in all traps....takes all of 10 minutes to do what I it..

out of curiosity, why do you bother messing with the wh bypass if you aren't using antifreeze? not enough volume out of the air compressor?
bumpy

I alway's drain the hot water heater if 5er is going to set for a bit in the cold, guess I put it in by-pass out of habit...also don't see any sense in running air through the entire system and filling hot water heater up with air, possibly causing an issue with that....I run air compressor at about 35 psi....Run all the water out of the piping, turn air off and check once again by opening all faucets and flushing commode again to make sure I don't leave any air in the system. Again, just habit I guess. When I winterize, once the camper is going to set from Dec thru Feb or so, I will run antifreeze thru system, again, of course, leaving hot water heater in by-pass....hot water heater will be completely empty...

NC Hauler wrote:

I'm a firm believe in, "Better safe than sorry" as another poster stated....I have a 39' 5er with 4 slides....I drain the 10 gallon water heater, put it in by-pass and blow the lines out, then I put the RV antifreeze in all traps....takes all of 10 minutes to do what I it..

out of curiosity, why do you bother messing with the wh bypass if you aren't using antifreeze? not enough volume out of the air compressor?
bumpy

robdnorm wrote:
I just recently purchased a 2012 Flagstaff fifth wheel that has the enclosed under belly and heated tanks. It also has a heat vent in the storage under the neck. We just took it out for our first trip this past weekend and plan to go again during Thanksgiving. The weather is calling for a low of 20 this week for two nights. I was wondering if I left the furnace running the two nights if it would keep the lines safe. It also has an outside shower on it. The last camper I had was a Jayco and it did I not have all these features. I would have winterized it without a doubt. I was just wondering if any could shed some light on their past experiences..

For a temporary cold snap I open the low point drains. Then I put an electric heater in the trailer and open the cabinets and bathroom doors. If more than a day or so I drain the hot water heater.

Just as a thought. We snowbird. Last year we took two days to load our trailer in 10-20 degree January temps. I turned on the heat in the trailer just to keep it comfortable to load the fridge, pantry, closets, etc. And to keep liquid items from freezing. Then we traveled two days with heat off, while staying in it with heat on for two nights. For that use we went thru 40 pounds of propane. Two 20# tanks. About 46 bucks. Both were empty. My trailer uses 4 20# tanks.

robdnorm wrote:
Thanks for the replies. I should have been more clear in my original post. I plan to winterize the unit after our trip in two weeks. We are experiencing an "artic blast" for two days here in TN. We typically do not experience this type weather until January/February. I have already winterized my horse trailer LQ for the year. Ultimately I would only be looking at the temps for two nights. After that they are calling for the temps to jump back up to the 60s. I was just questioning if the all the extra heaters and insulation would keep me protected those two nights.

I would blow the lines out, as stated, you can get a fitting to do this with for around $3, then pour the rv. antifreeze in the traps...That's what I've been doing for years when I've still been camping with temps. in the twenty's and lower.....I don't run the furnace, but have run a little ceramic heater on occasion. I'd save my propane, it's not cheap..

I'm a firm believe in, "Better safe than sorry" as another poster stated....I have a 39' 5er with 4 slides....I drain the 10 gallon water heater, put it in by-pass and blow the lines out, then I put the RV antifreeze in all traps....takes all of 10 minutes to do what I it..

Don't forget to drain the water heater.

I'm in TN like robdnorm and I winterized mine tonight. Cost $3 and took about 20 minutes for the water to drain and then pump in the antifreeze. Last thing I want is a water leak. We use our toyhauler more in the winter than we do the summer and have learned they are a breeze to winterize compared to my boats. I winterize the water system after every use in the winter, better safe than sorry.