Vinyl Fence Posts as Sewer Hose Storage - A few questions?

huge wire ties. and use round plastic pipe glue ends on so you can put screw caps on ,stays dry.

How can I use wire ties when I have nothing on frame to go around?
I prefer the 5" square vinyl fence posts as I can use rain gutters inside as trays to slide my items in/out.

I found this really helpful when doing mine. Lots of examples.

https://www.google.com/search?q=rv+sewer+hose+storage+fence+post&biw=1188&bih=566&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi0idSX0_zJAhVN-GMKHbRNCdUQ_AUIBygC

Mine look exactly like the first photo that Path1 posted. Just behind the front landing jacks.Instead of end caps, I use 6" x 1/4 bolt, allowing for air and drain.Using the corner posts (slotted), allows for ease in attaching to the floor pan using fender washers. I have a sheet metal screw at each end and three spaced down the length underneath.

Stainless steel self tapping screws into the frame or drilled and tapped holes for bolts is no problem and will not weaken the frame. Dealers do it all the time.

If you don't want to drill, you can have tabs welded to the frame.

Here's how I did mine on my last camper. I no longer have this camper, but I did keep the tube, it's tucked way in my utility shed at home.

The pipe is PVC pipe, the slide tray is a PVC pipe, much thinner, I split long ways and rounded the corners. The tray (2 halves), also served as a support for the hoses when the sewer hose was attached to the trailer. The hoses would not drag the ground this way. (funny, I've been using the same hoses for about 7 years now, and no holes yet.

This is a 10 foot tube (too long to go cross wise under the camper), so I installed in long-wise. The end of the tub touched the frame support nearest the rear axle. Both end had bath tub drains in them so air would pass through and dry everything out when traveling. I had to put a larger end on it, so I would not have to disconnect the connectors all the time.

You said you wanted the square fence post style, but thought I share my design anyway. You may be able to incorporate something from it.

My current trailer has an enclosed underbelly. So I'm not sure how to attach this pipe now. After 2 years, I still have not put it on my current camper. I use a plastic steamer trunk to haul my sewer hoses now, and all my metal rods and poles slide in the trailer bumper. So far, I've not had a need for this, so it's still hanging in my shed:

























Considering I have 3 holding tanks on my current tamper, and 2 outlets, I have enough hose to connect them together with a Y and bring them to one outlet. Too much hose now for the old PVC pipe.

path1, thanks for the link. Will the 3 holes drilled into frame on each side weaken frame?

The Titanium came with a round pipe storage unit just in front of the wheels. Some strange Canadian Metric size about 3-3/4" diameter. Unfortunately, my nice new hoses with permanently attached end fittings would not fit into it. I replaced with a vinyl fence post (really a fence post cover, since they are best installed OVER a 4x4 treated wood post set in concrete.)

On the driver's side end I notched in a 2" cabinet hinge and a small hasp (secure with a mini carabiner) installed with pop rivets and washers. Hinge on the forward side so it won't blow open. Drilled 4 @ 3/4" holes down the center of the bottom side for drainage. Cut to length so it was an inch or so beyond the frame on both sides and install the pass side cap with sheet metal screws.

Installation:
Galvanized Plumber's pipe strap
1/4" fender washers
#8 by 1" self-drilling sheet metal screws (hex head)

Shape pipe strap around the post with about two inch "ears" on each side. Support the post against the frame with jack stands and wedges and mark the holes closest to the sides of the post on each side.

At this point I removed the post; center punched the frame and drilled starter "dimples"; ran the self-drilling screws in and back out; reinstalled the post and ran the screws home with fender washers.

Just to insure that the pipe strap wouldn't work loose, I drilled the post at the pipe strap hole closest to bottom center and ran a small bolt washer and nut (from the scrap box)through at each end with the (smooth) bolt head inside so it won't snag anything.

Reattach the passenger's end cap; load the hoses; close the driver's end; snap on the carabiner; go.

Baja Man wrote:
path1, thanks for the link. Will the 3 holes drilled into frame on each side weaken frame?

If your asking me...I have no idea. I didn't drill into my frame. Others say no problem. I put mine in the driveway skid metal thing at rear. Drilled 2 holes on each side the same size as my slide out pin, which is 1/4 x 20, with nylox nut. So I have replacement if that bolt ever breaks. Several have said it hangs to low but is higher than my step fold up and never had a problem. My biggest thought process is what I wanted for a door. Right now a bungee cord as temp (over 1 year now) If your painting them, I also found out that spray paint doesn't stick to good all the way around. Rough them up a little with sandpaper first.

Well I don't believe that small holes will weaken the frame, as stated dealers and manufactures do it all the time to enclose the under belly.

If i were you I would use self taping #14 screws into the side wall of the frame. That following pictures are how I did mine. The 5" post will hold all the fittings, I also made it so it would open on both sides.









Even the 90 degree elbow fits!!