Water Heater bypass valve.

Same thing happened to me last year as I have the Anderson valve set up. Only thing I did try last year for 1st time was blowing out the lines w/ air. Because I was on a tight deadline to get RV to storage place, I bought a water heater hose bypass (like 10-15 bucks) to get me thru things and worry about it in spring. Had to take apart the basement wall and such, but was able to get things done. This spring, replaced a check valve on water heater side. No probs all summer. So when I went to winterize it this Mon, I followed directions at docking station, flipped lever to bypass and turned the A-valve to winterize and no probs. Perhaps when I did the air thing, I messed things up......dunno.

I as well thought the A-valve or bypass valve went south and was going to replace the A-valve. About dropped my eyeteeth when I saw it was about 100 bucks and looked to be more involved than I thought. Found a place in OH that had the exact same type of A-vlave just not from A-valve co for a fraction of the cost. Ordered it just in case the check valve on water tank didn't work. Now I cannot locate it here in the house! Go figure. Anyways, I believe I put the cart in front of the horse last fall trying to be in hurry and messed up the check valve on water tank.

its a likely problem many have had before you not a valve issue, but a too slow a pressurization to close the check valve.

SDcampowneroperator wrote:
There are 2 types of water heater bypass systems, the 3 valve - 1 each for in, out and bypass between the in and out. A fool proof design.
The other is a 1 valve bypass to inlet that then switches flow to bypass and depends on a auto check valve at outlet to close to prevent inflow to the cold water heater tank.
Failures are rare of manually operated valves, check valves do need a good slam of pressure to close. Build up your air or pump pressure to maximum before bleeding the water.
When pumping the pink be certain all valves are in winterizing position ( CLOSED) Run the pump until it pressurizes the system to cut off, then go- slowly- to each tap nearest to farthest , 2 times around allowing the pump or compressor to rebuild pressure to each tap


Edit, I think you pumped a/f too soon, without enough pressure to close the spring operated check valve.

Thanks .And I think I blew it , I took off one of the fitting ,and from what I saw as said on my previous post those fittings are not intended to come off that valve comes with a barbed fitting to hook the lines to .

What you are saying makes sense although my last two fifth wheels have had the same valve. I must of been extremely lucky on the previous one, because the way I did it today is how I have done it for the past 13 years. 12 years on the previous fifth wheel , and last year on this one.

What I will do is try to reconnect that line ,and see if It leaks when I pressurize the system as you have said to see if I can get that bypass valve to work correctly. It will be no fun to try ,and replace that valve where thy have on the back of the convience center, its a bear to get to. I have the basement panels off ,but still with all the water lines its a messy bunch of lines in there .

MFL wrote:


If your bypass looks like this, it is likely the one way valve at the top red line out that is stuck open, and may need replacing.

Jerry

Thanks Its the one valve system, nothing else to turn off or on. I'll just replace the whole valve body it looks to be one unit, nothing to take apart , has water lines going in from both sides ,and the bottom of it . I watched a YouTube on it ,and it appears those fittings do not come off ,although they do have screwed on fitting, but when you buy the replacement it has barbed fitting in all three connections to hook back up the water lines . . Now on mine those lines are put on with a steel crimped band, so it looks like I will have to cut them off ,and splice back together .

There are 2 types of water heater bypass systems, the 3 valve - 1 each for in, out and bypass between the in and out. A fool proof design.
The other is a 1 valve bypass to inlet that then switches flow to bypass and depends on a auto check valve at outlet to close to prevent inflow to the cold water heater tank.
Failures are rare of manually operated valves, check valves do need a good slam of pressure to close. Build up your air or pump pressure to maximum before bleeding the water.
When pumping the pink be certain all valves are in winterizing position ( CLOSED) Run the pump until it pressurizes the system to cut off, then go- slowly- to each tap nearest to farthest , 2 times around allowing the pump or compressor to rebuild pressure to each tap


Edit, I think you pumped a/f too soon, without enough pressure to close the spring operated check valve.

If your bypass looks like this, it is likely the one way valve at the top red line out that is stuck open, and may need replacing.

Jerry

A pic of your bypass setup would help. If you only have a single mechanical valve, to change, I'd suspect another one way valve is leaking back into WH.

My current, and other RVs have 3 mechanical valves to turn. One previous RV did develop a slight leak through a closed valve over time, allowing a little seepage into WH.

Jerry