Water heater element ?

Endricken wrote:
FYI
Rewiring is not too hard. Be sure to check the Wire Nut connectors in the Electrical Box on the WH if you get that far. Had to order the Blue Right Angle Crimp Connector from the Auto Parts Store as they did not stock it.

I ended up rewiring my entire WH and replaced the chintsy Black Rocker switch on the outside with an indoor Wall Switch.

Good Luck!

Your timing is right on, I have been to auto parts, Home Depot and several other places including an RV parts house and no one had the blue right angle crimp connector. RV parts gave me one that was a little large for the tab. If you remember the size and Auto parts store that was able to get it for you I would appreciate it. I think I have enough wire to attach a crimp connector without rewiring. I hope anyway.

FYI
Rewiring is not too hard. Be sure to check the Wire Nut connectors in the Electrical Box on the WH if you get that far. Had to order the Blue Right Angle Crimp Connector from the Auto Parts Store as they did not stock it.

I ended up rewiring my entire WH and replaced the chintsy Black Rocker switch on the outside with an indoor Wall Switch.

Good Luck!

Bottom wire burnt off........probably because it had been making contact with that 'curled' lip where opening has been made.

Not first time that has happened.

T-stat is probably still good.....
Easy to test with multimeter.

Power off------With water temp cool both t-stat contacts will be closed......so should have continuity from top wire connection to bottom wire connection.
Power ON----(and broken wire fixed) should have 120V AC at lower connection (and at element).

OR....with water cool turn electric on and check for hot water 20-30 mins. later

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Remove rubber cover that has 'Push to Reset' on it



Check electric set of t-stats....one on left side with black wires.
Look to see of wire between top (high temp t-stat) and bottom (normal t-stat) is burnt into




Left set are 120V AC and right set (red wires) are 12V DC for propane.
Upper ones have 'reset buttons'

Well you where spot on with you post. The bottom black wire was burned thru and not connected. I guess my question now is why did it get so hot to burn up the wire and is the thermostat still good.
thanks again for you sharing your knowledge in helping me with this problem.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Remove rubber cover that has 'Push to Reset' on it



Check electric set of t-stats....one on left side with black wires.
Look to see of wire between top (high temp t-stat) and bottom (normal t-stat) is burnt into




Left set are 120V AC and right set (red wires) are 12V DC for propane.
Upper ones have 'reset buttons'

Thanks for your help, I am going to check this out today. Your pictures are a big help for this mechanically challenge guy.

Moki wrote:
Had the exact same thing happen, smell and all. Was the hi temp/thermostat on the electrical side. Now carry spares of thermostat, the one for the LP side, and element. Easy to change.

. Same for me... Changed elec thermostat.

Same smell here-had 120V thermostat bad and replaced both with O.E. higher temp and was good as new. Smell was a little concerning as nobody likes an electrical burning smell in these tinderboxes!

Remove rubber cover that has 'Push to Reset' on it



Check electric set of t-stats....one on left side with black wires.
Look to see of wire between top (high temp t-stat) and bottom (normal t-stat) is burnt into




Left set are 120V AC and right set (red wires) are 12V DC for propane.
Upper ones have 'reset buttons'

Moki wrote:
Had the exact same thing happen, smell and all. Was the hi temp/thermostat on the electrical side. Now carry spares of thermostat, the one for the LP side, and element. Easy to change.

thanks for the info, was wondering if anyone else had the smell to go along with the no hot water issue. Was yours a Suburban?

Had the exact same thing happen, smell and all. Was the hi temp/thermostat on the electrical side. Now carry spares of thermostat, the one for the LP side, and element. Easy to change.