What did you do to your Toy Hauler today???

eightydo wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:
I believe there are lock washers between the flat washers and the nuts, just like it should be done.

The "that is a no no defeats you purpose" comment is a bit confusing though.

Flat washer can turn moving the nut and lock washer soon all is lose.

Like I said in my earlier post, the nuts and lock washers were tight after two years use before I moved them. Two of the bolts went through steel before and (the other) two go through steel now. I'm not worried about it moving.

I am curious as to why you say the flat washer can turn. I suppose it can, but why would it? The carriage bolt isn't going to turn so the flat washer has no motivation to turn. I suppose if I did a lot more left turns there would be uneven force that might turn the washer. Or is it right turns?

Removed the fuel station pump and stuck a bolt/clamp in/on the fuel line out of the tank. It was leaking and I just filled it up. I think its the line between the tank and pump but don't have time to work on it right now, off to Vegas this afternoon. Rubber line looks real bad, think ethanol got to it, could be contributing to generator issues over the weekend as well.

The government needs to shove ethanol up their butt.

I agree that in this application a Nylock nut would be best. The only time I don't care for Nylock is when you're going to be reusing the nut: Nylock will loosen up the more often you remove it. They're best for onetime usage, maybe twice.

fj12ryder wrote:
I worked in the can manufacturing business as a mechanic on the lines for nearly 40 years.

Yep...and like I said, in a steel application, no problem...correct torque is even better. We are talking about wood here...different story. If a nylock loosens, it isn't going to fall off. I cant say the same about a lock washer system. End of my 2 cents.

With the wooden construction pictured you'd have to have a washer to spread the force. I've used washers constantly with lock washers and have never had any come loose, not that it couldn't happen, but I've never seen it. I worked in the can manufacturing business as a mechanic on the lines for nearly 40 years.

fj12ryder wrote:
I believe there are lock washers between the flat washers and the nuts, just like it should be done.

The "that is a no no defeats you purpose" comment is a bit confusing though.

Flat washer can turn moving the nut and lock washer soon all is lose.

I believe there are lock washers between the flat washers and the nuts, just like it should be done.

The "that is a no no defeats you purpose" comment is a bit confusing though.

250Keith wrote:
Or use some loctite!! I my self don't like nilocks.

Whats wrong with "NyLocks", used many thousands of them over 45 years of wrenching.
Only in critical components that demand maximum holding power got grade 8 locknuts or safety wired.
Nothing wrong with lock tight, but for many applications a NyLock works well.

joebedford wrote:
I pulled of part of the underbelly cover so that I could move my wheel chock forward 16". 16" so that two of the four bolts could catch a steel cross-member.

I see flat washers did you use split washers (Lock washers)also.
that is a no no defeats you purpose.

joebedford wrote:

Doughboy12 wrote:

joebedford wrote:
I pulled of part of the underbelly cover so that I could move my wheel chock forward 16". 16" so that two of the four bolts could catch a steel cross-member.

Need to change those nuts to nylocks...

I'm oldschool - they have lockwashers. FWIW, when I undid them from the original position where they had been for two years, all four were tight.

At least I didn't just use screws from above which would have been much easier.

Lock washers are OK...but not for a wood application with the expansion and contraction...IMHO