What happens if you plug a 50 Amp RV into 22V welder plug

sdetweil wrote:
Ok, I'm the guy that found out. RV 50 amp into 60 amp Welder service with no neutral..

big Pop when the A/C tried to come on. wish it was a circuit breaker.. no such luck.

something smells near the converter/breaker panel. not wire smell, electronics smell. maybe blown converter.

obviously the smaller ground couldn't take the load. maybe it will be a blown ground wire. (probably wishful thinking).

far as I can tell everything works (on 110 adapter to 50amp plug) except the fridge electric circuit. lights, fantastic fans, 110 outlets. haven't tried slides or leveler yet.

I will disconnect all power today and pull the breaker panel out to look at the wires behind.

diagnosis advice welcomed. will also run a separate 6/3 circuit.

You are a person with some loose screws! Why did you plug into a welding receptical?? That's what happens when you listen to people whom have no idea about what they are saying. You got what you deserved, a big burned up mess.

smkettner wrote:
Only the main utility service meter panel and distribution should have a neutral ground bond.
Neutral and ground need to be kept separated in all subpanels including all RV panels.

Good advice, do not mix the two wires.

The neutral/return wire carries current while the ground wire is for safety and signal integrity (noise reduction) for connected equipment.

Only the main utility service meter panel and distribution should have a neutral ground bond.
Neutral and ground need to be kept separated in all subpanels including all RV panels.

while not on topic, this incident has made me take a close look at both my subpanels, and both are a mess. ground and neutrals mixed, one enclosure not even grounded.. fun things to fix!

only thing I don't understand, sub panel using plastic conduit,
master has ground/neutral bonded. sub not bonded.

if the conduit had been metal, the sub panel would have inherited the bonding.

what can/am I supposed to do about this?
bond at the sub (no/no)
leave unbonded (maybe?)

Atom Ant wrote:

sdetweil wrote:

john&bet wrote:

jeepman71 wrote:
I am currious, if my rv were a 50amp system and I plug into a 220V welder or dryer outlet what will I find? What different circuits or equipment would likely be damaged?

Let's assume that this rv is a very late model like a 2012.

I don't have to worry because mine is only a 30amp.

DON'T DON'T do it unless it has 4 poles or hole in the outlet. YOU MUST have a NEUTRAL period.

right. this is 50 amp 110v service.. requires a neutral..

NOT 50 amp 220 service.

It IS 50A 220VAC service, just because the RV only happens to use 110V equipment, doesn't mean its not 50A 220VAC.

What you are saying is incorrect, as when limiting in term to only 110VAC, it actually produced 100A.

yes, you are correct.. it IS also 50 amp 220.
and also 50amp per leg 110vac service (total 100amp)

smkettner wrote:

sdetweil wrote:
I have run a proper 6/3 with ground 50amp, 110v service line now, but given the problems, I am waiting for a circuit tester/surge suppressor to arrive to validate the circuit. (this tester will go with me from now on as I hear a lot about power pedestal issues).

If you attached to the proper double breaker there will be 240v between the hot leads. Your RV does not use the 240v but it must be wired this way to avoid overcurrent in the neutral.

The neutral actually keeps the transformer secondary voltages nearly constant (120 VAC) for varying loads and returns the current imbalance (difference) between the two 120 VAC branches.

Atom Ant wrote:
It IS 50A 220VAC service, just because the RV only happens to use 110V equipment, doesn't mean its not 50A 220VAC.

What you are saying is incorrect, as when limiting in term to only 110VAC, it actually produced 100A.

Correct, but no more than 50 amps per branch...

sdetweil wrote:

john&bet wrote:

jeepman71 wrote:
I am currious, if my rv were a 50amp system and I plug into a 220V welder or dryer outlet what will I find? What different circuits or equipment would likely be damaged?

Let's assume that this rv is a very late model like a 2012.

I don't have to worry because mine is only a 30amp.

DON'T DON'T do it unless it has 4 poles or hole in the outlet. YOU MUST have a NEUTRAL period.

right. this is 50 amp 110v service.. requires a neutral..

NOT 50 amp 220 service.

It IS 50A 220VAC service, just because the RV only happens to use 110V equipment, doesn't mean its not 50A 220VAC.

What you are saying is incorrect, as when limiting in term to only 110VAC, it actually produced 100A.

sdetweil wrote:
I have run a proper 6/3 with ground 50amp, 110v service line now, but given the problems, I am waiting for a circuit tester/surge suppressor to arrive to validate the circuit. (this tester will go with me from now on as I hear a lot about power pedestal issues).

If you attached to the proper double breaker there will be 240v between the hot leads. Your RV does not use the 240v but it must be wired this way to avoid overcurrent in the neutral.

john&bet wrote:

jeepman71 wrote:
I am currious, if my rv were a 50amp system and I plug into a 220V welder or dryer outlet what will I find? What different circuits or equipment would likely be damaged?

Let's assume that this rv is a very late model like a 2012.

I don't have to worry because mine is only a 30amp.

DON'T DON'T do it unless it has 4 poles or hole in the outlet. YOU MUST have a NEUTRAL period.

right. this is 50 amp 110v service.. requires a neutral..

NOT 50 amp 220 service.