What to use to level trailer while parked

Nothing fancy? Measure from landing legs to center of tandem, in feet. Divide that by 2 feet, the length of your level. Set trailer where you want it. Put level on the floor crosswise. Lift end of level to center bubble, and measure end to floor. For every quarter inch, you need inch of block added on that side.
If you don't want to unhook, turn the level to check how much the tires need to come up. (Your first calculation time how far you need to lift end to center the bubble)
Now, on each side build your stack of boards, beside the tires, so the top of stack is lined up with centers of axles. Move the rig forward or back, then slide the stacks in line with tires. Move rig to the top of stacks, crank landing gear to just touch ground, unplug light cord.
If you get your trailer level, you can mount a level on the front so you can in mirror. Then jack up, put boards under tires, can calibrate that level in 2X.
While trailer is level, mount a bubble where you can see while working the landing gear. Dad had another level mounted on a magnet, stuck to side of pin box. When he pulled the TV out he would rotate to center the bubble. Ready to hook up, jack to CTB, height is right.

Curly2001 wrote:
Just have the standard front jacks and rear stabs. Nothing fancy, darn it.

Then unhitch and level
Should only take a few minutes

2 x 10's (or 12's) are even better. Easier to hit when backing up.

6" high at the front is 1 degree slope front to rear. What is the problem with a one night stop?

Just have the standard front jacks and rear stabs. Nothing fancy, darn it.

I don’t know what kind of parking area you will be using, but most all parking lots have some slope for rain water drainage, so orient the rig as required.

Curly2001 wrote:
The newer truck is taller than the old one. Still looking at ways to remedy that either by correct track or trying adjust with the pin box. I am about 2 inches higher in the front than the back but if I leave it hooked up I am about 2/3 or so of a bubble high. I realize I can also unhitch which I may do if I don't get it level. I just didn't know if boards were the answer or if the plastic blocks would work as well.
Curly

What type of 'leveling' system do you have.....
4 or 6 point electric/hydraulic leveling system
OR
electric/hand crank stabilizer jacks at rear >>

Electric/hand crank "STABILIZERS" are just that 'stabilizers' ...NOT to be used for LIFTING
Rear of 5vr is LOW and stabilizers are not what you want to use to 'LEVEL' the 5vr

With Nose High condition......unhitch and level by lowering the front jacks and using rear jacks to stabilize.


If you have a 'leveling system'......???????
Think you would still need to unhitch

As hot as it is out in Tuscon right now, I would's even look at a hitch.... Has it dropped below 1008 in a the last couple of weeks out there?
My daughter bailed from Phoenix for a few days. She's cringing of the thought of going back there.

The newer truck is taller than the old one. Still looking at ways to remedy that either by correct track or trying adjust with the pin box. I am about 2 inches higher in the front than the back but if I leave it hooked up I am about 2/3 or so of a bubble high. I realize I can also unhitch which I may do if I don't get it level. I just didn't know if boards were the answer or if the plastic blocks would work as well.
Curly

First, you should think about why the trailer rides high in the front and fix that problem. A noise high trailer adds more weight to the rear axle than the front axle and that will cause more tire wear and possible tire blow out.

Second, it only takes a few minutes to unhook a 5th wheel and level it.

Third, get some 2x6 blocks.