Wheel Bearings

I've done it by feel too but that was on a much smaller trailer. Wanted to get it right for sure, so followed their instructions. A key was getting a socket of the right size. I had a 36mm, but nothing bigger. It took a 38mm or 1.5".

you want .001 to .010 play in the hub assembly after final adjustment. I have done it by feel but anymore I use a magnetic dial indicator.

I have never torqued my wheel bearings. All by feel. Tighten to where there is no hub movement and I can feel the nut getting harder to turn. Look for the closest cotter pin hole and that is good.

Found this for Al-Ko axles:
http://al-kousa.com/download/ALKO_2kto7k_OwnerManual.pdf

Was wondering how tight to torque castle nut. They say torque to 20 ft lbs while slowly turning drum. Back it off, then tighten to 7 ft lbs while not rotating drum. Then back it off one notch and insert cotter.

Glad I found this as its different than Dexter's guide which calls for higher initial torque and then only finger tight after that.

Thanks for looking! The guy at the dealership told me it matters whether it is a 12" drum or 10" drum. I've got one out...mine are 12" drums. No number on seal.

Lots of grease in there so far which is good news to me. Its got the easy lube feature but I wanted to see condition of stuff. Should be good cuz trailer is 2012 and not used that much yet.

New cotter pins are in order.

Bearing numbers were napa #br25580 and 14125-a seal has no number... Odd.

Appreciate you looking Bob. I was thinking of getting an extra seal too. I've got an extra leaf spring but no brake parts. Will keep it in mind when I get in there.

My axles are flipped and frame too high to use as jack point so about all I can figure is to use a block of wood with grooves for ubolts to fit into and jack right under them/axle.

Any better ideas are welcome.

Thanks.

Some good info here:
Dexter axle info.

None of my old seals had a number on them and neither do the new ones. They came in a ziplock style bag with no numbers as well. I actually have 4 new seals and one set of bearings in my spare parts box. I keep a brake return spring kit in there as well since every time I have serviced the wheels, I have found at least one damaged/broken spring.
Nothing too expensive, but you know the saying.
"better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it".

Good info guys! I remember now about the castle nut and washer holding the wheel on and the inner seal being what needs to come out. And I've got some guidance on how to seat the bearnings after regreasing.

I thought just knowing what axle I had would enable my dealer to give me the right seal. I called today and he said nope. So, I've gotta pull one out tomorrow...and will compare to what number you post if you get time.

I've got a seal puller tool, so all will be good as far as getting them out....but yeah...they will be bent and destroyed.