Forum Discussion

12t1's avatar
12t1
Explorer
Jan 04, 2014

WINTER/CUSTOM BUILD???

First off…if this is not the right forum please move it or advise me where to post.

I had a KZ toy hauler for 3 years and loved it but now I need to haul a car and 3-4 snowmobiles in the winter with reasonable comfort down to 0 degrees. Boondocking for 3-4 days. I learned what to do and not do with the last trailer and I want to begin with a used @26' car hauler preferably aluminum and stripped inside.


INSULATION
This is not about looks…only functionality. Since the beams in trailer walls are not very thick I thought I would use over speced foam or possibly fiberglass insulation and maybe even tyvek to seal it up. I do not need solid walls…or maybe only in the areas where things need to be attached to the wall. I will install some windows and if they are not too much more get double pane or just tape bubble wrap over the windows. I will have a 12v range hood fan and 2 fantastic fans front and back to remove moisture.

What insulation to use?
What about the floor?…how to insulate from the bottom exterior?


PLUMBING
I plan to wall in the front 5' for bathroom with a toilet and shower and have a kitchen sink in the outside of this wall. I want the 30 gallon black and 30 gallon grey tanks above the floor level inside a platform. This is not an issue with a toilet but a shower is a height problem. I'm 6'1" and in the KZ I had a clear bubble above the shower that made me fit. I have found a 30 gallon tank that is only 7" high. I know there are trailers with extra height but I do not want to order a new trailer.

Bubbles for over shower? Sources?

If a tank is only 7" high how can level sensors work?

So my theory was to make a frame that holds the tanks 2 inches above the floor and have venting on the platform to allow heat through. That way they will not freeze by touching the floor. I do not want to run tank heaters as they draw down the 4 6v house batteries too much over 10 hour days. I want the tanks to not freeze.

Can the drains have only a slight angle down to the side of the trailer? There will be a insulated compartment door to open to access the drains.

Would a macerator pump or something like that be needed since I am not draining from the bottom?


HOT WATER
http://amzn.to/1dk0cO3
can be drained for quick winterizing and has vent


FRESH WATER
will draw from 2 15 gallon plastic drums or 7 gallon aquatainers as needed…all interior and strapped to the wall.
All water lines will be run along the top of the wall and easily accessed. A 12v pump will run everything. Just suck in some pink when not in use and start with 2 gallons of pink in each tank against the valves.


HEAT
Suburban furnace 30-40k (set low when out riding) This will be located near the tanks.
Kimberly wood stove with fresh air inlet (if I can afford it) for evenings

Any advice on any of this appreciated…thanks.

19 Replies

  • I believe you add compression strength to the walls...how about weight of the foam on a 26" trailer? Probably less than foam board?
  • 12t1 wrote:
    nevadanick wrote:
    The carbides will probably tear up the rhino, i have used these http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=CR0121&eq=&Tp=


    Thanks...I had those on a 2 position open trailer. This is 80% car trailer and then we will try to get 3-4 sleds in for some winter trips. I'm thinking get them up on dollys and winch them in to place because driving that many in might be difficult...that way we can bring them in backwards to try to fit 4.

    thanks


    yes I think a pro is necessary. I suspect it would be better to install the windows after and that way they can blast through there fast. Are you saying the foam will be 3" thick from the skin up to the interior edge of the beam? so oyu can see the beams or would they go over the beams too? How thick? ANy pictures of trailers with this anywhere? Is it easy to cut like "Great Stuff"?
  • nevadanick wrote:
    The carbides will probably tear up the rhino, i have used these http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=CR0121&eq=&Tp=


    Thanks...I had those on a 2 position open trailer. This is 80% car trailer and then we will try to get 3-4 sleds in for some winter trips. I'm thinking get them up on dollys and winch them in to place because driving that many in might be difficult...that way we can bring them in backwards to try to fit 4.

    thanks
  • 12t1 wrote:
    what do you think @500 square feet would cost in closed cell 5lb?


    for the thickness you see of 2-4", probably about $1/sqft as there would be minimal prep. there are diy kits, but if you havent done it before I would phone a spray foam company, that and the diy kits are often. not as good quality and the applicators suck so the end result os not something id want in my trailer.

    r20 at 3" is easily achievable. original post of r2.3/inch was fo r1/2lb open cell(crap)
  • The carbides will probably tear up the rhino, i have used these http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=CR0121&eq=&Tp=
  • what do you think @500 square feet would cost in closed cell 5lb?
  • So even if the floor is a bit cold if there is warm air around the sides they should not freeze...that gains me 2 inches back.

    As for the foam...I never thought of that. That certainly would be easier to just spray around everything. Are there DIY kits if I need to hire a contractor? So the R value of the 5lb is better??? I would spray the walls and ceiling and then put everything in. I would also do a rhino liner on the floor...I think the only thing that can handle carbides.

    thanks!
  • I wouldn't even consider anything but closed cell spray foam in 2 or 5lb. versions for insulation. With spray foam you do not need a vapour barrier and it works wonders on the floor.
  • I dont think you need to have a space between the floor and the tanks if its in heated space. I have a KZ TT and use it to 0 and even below and thats with the grey and black in heated underbelly. My water tank is inside. Even if you dont have anything underneath i would enclose that area and run a heat duct to help keep the floor warm. You should be able to find an enclosed car hauler with the height you need inside. I have often thought about doing the same so its built to my spec.