Winterization
We are winterizing fifth wheel for the first time by ourselves. According to what we have researched, we blew out all the water with air compressor, emptied water heater, turned on the bypass valve to...
Forum Discussion
Here is what you need to do now.
Drain the Fresh Water tank of all that A/F. See if you can funnel it back into the jugs it came from. Then open the low point drains and blow out the system again, as you did before. Open the drain on the water heater to make sure that is clear of A/F too. Cap the low point drains tightly. Flush the water heater with plenty of cold water. Then plug in the drain plug.
Fill the fresh water tank with fresh water. And run the pump. When the pump stops running, go around to each faucet and open it up (both hot and cold) till clear water runs out. Then run it that way for another few minutes til there is no taste or smell to the water. That's right...do both the smell and taste test at each faucet. Even the shower's (inside and out). When the lines are clear to your satisfaction, then open the low point drains again and open all faucets again...to let the water run out of the system. Drain any water left in the fresh water tank. Close the faucets. Hook up the air line to blow the system out again. While the air is running thru the system, go around and open all faucets (one at a time) again. Close each one after the water is done spitting out of each faucet. Now your system should be clear and free of antifreeze. Be sure your water heater is in bypass mode. Be sure the low point drains are capped.
Locate your water pump. To do this remove all the BOTTOM drawers from the cabinets in the kitchen. Find the PEX water hoses and trace them back to the water pump. You might need to remove a cabinet panel to access the water pump. Disconnect the hose from the FW tank at the water pump. That is the input side of the water pump. Connect the shower hose to the input side of the water pump. Pour two gallons of A/F into a bucket. Sink the other end of the shower hose into the bucket of antifreeze. Turn on the water pump at the switch. The water pump will run until the system pressurizes. A/F level will lower in the bucket slightly. When the pump stops running, go flush the toilet until the pink comes out. Add a little more pink into the toilet bowl. After the pump re-pressurizes the plumbing system. Then open each of the hot and cold faucets...one at a time. And close to let the system re-pressurize. Do not forget the outside shower. Or washer drier prep lines. Or ice maker lines. You should have some A/F left in the bucket. If not add another gallon to the bucket to allow the system to re-pressurize. When the pump stops you are done. Reconnect everything and clean up the mess. Now pour some A/F into your sink and shower drains. Also washer drain, if needed. About a cup in each.
If the system does not pressurize, you can figure the A/F is going into the water heater tank. Pull the drain plug to check. If there is A/F in the water heater, then either the bypass valve leaks, or the check valve leaks, on the upper line into the water heater. Fix or change those out and then see if the system pressurizes.
Drain the Fresh Water tank of all that A/F. See if you can funnel it back into the jugs it came from. Then open the low point drains and blow out the system again, as you did before. Open the drain on the water heater to make sure that is clear of A/F too. Cap the low point drains tightly. Flush the water heater with plenty of cold water. Then plug in the drain plug.
Fill the fresh water tank with fresh water. And run the pump. When the pump stops running, go around to each faucet and open it up (both hot and cold) till clear water runs out. Then run it that way for another few minutes til there is no taste or smell to the water. That's right...do both the smell and taste test at each faucet. Even the shower's (inside and out). When the lines are clear to your satisfaction, then open the low point drains again and open all faucets again...to let the water run out of the system. Drain any water left in the fresh water tank. Close the faucets. Hook up the air line to blow the system out again. While the air is running thru the system, go around and open all faucets (one at a time) again. Close each one after the water is done spitting out of each faucet. Now your system should be clear and free of antifreeze. Be sure your water heater is in bypass mode. Be sure the low point drains are capped.
Locate your water pump. To do this remove all the BOTTOM drawers from the cabinets in the kitchen. Find the PEX water hoses and trace them back to the water pump. You might need to remove a cabinet panel to access the water pump. Disconnect the hose from the FW tank at the water pump. That is the input side of the water pump. Connect the shower hose to the input side of the water pump. Pour two gallons of A/F into a bucket. Sink the other end of the shower hose into the bucket of antifreeze. Turn on the water pump at the switch. The water pump will run until the system pressurizes. A/F level will lower in the bucket slightly. When the pump stops running, go flush the toilet until the pink comes out. Add a little more pink into the toilet bowl. After the pump re-pressurizes the plumbing system. Then open each of the hot and cold faucets...one at a time. And close to let the system re-pressurize. Do not forget the outside shower. Or washer drier prep lines. Or ice maker lines. You should have some A/F left in the bucket. If not add another gallon to the bucket to allow the system to re-pressurize. When the pump stops you are done. Reconnect everything and clean up the mess. Now pour some A/F into your sink and shower drains. Also washer drain, if needed. About a cup in each.
If the system does not pressurize, you can figure the A/F is going into the water heater tank. Pull the drain plug to check. If there is A/F in the water heater, then either the bypass valve leaks, or the check valve leaks, on the upper line into the water heater. Fix or change those out and then see if the system pressurizes.
