We are looking at a 30ft class C that only has a 13.5 BTU AC unit installed with 30 amps power cord. We are concerned that this set up will not be sufficient to get through these sweltering summers in the south. Plus, it has been our experience that you can't use a hair dryer or microwave on 30 amps, when the ac is running.What do you recommend for the AC size in this rig? We are looking into the Nexus Phantoms. Thanks

Our Keystone TT with no slides had a 13.5 single (forced or ducked) AC. We never had problems cooling with it, even in hot temperatures.When we got the 35 1/2 footer with 3 slides, the original 13.5 just didn't cut it. We swapped it out for a 15,000 (single AC unit) and it's done great every since, even in some pretty hot temps.2 way to keep the camper cool. 1) start the AC in the morning and let it run. Don't start it once it's already hot inside the camper. This is true for any size AC unit.2) If driving all day and the unit is hot when you stop, start the AC with all the slides in. This makes the initial cooling space much less, and even a 13.5 will probably cool a 30 footer, even later in the day when it's already hot. After it cools down inside, then open one slide at a time and the AC will be able to keep up. If you open everything at once at the offset, the AC most likely will not bring the temperature down. It's just too much space and the inside is just too hot.However, you should not have a problem with scenario 2, as your's is a CLASS-C. When driving you will have your dash AC on, keeping the coach cooler than inside a TT or a 5er. Also, if you have a generator on board, you have the option to run the generator and run the house AC when traveling, unlike a TT or 5er that does not have generators.Here again, before purchasing, have the seller turn on the AC and see how it works.

Yes, we had that same problem with our 35ft 5ver, we had to install a 2nd A/C in the bedroom. The 15 BTU wouldn't cool the bedroom down, but that was mainly an air flow problem. So that is why we are really concerned about the 13.5 unit. There are two options, 1 - 15,000 btu'son 30 Amp or 2nd A/C in bedroom and 50 amp upgrade. We don't want to run into that problem again, traveling in the summer can be brutal, and going out west means spending a week in Texas. (LOL, not quite, but it seems like it)Thanks

Our 31-ft with no slides barely makes it in FL with 15000, so unless the 30 is insulated like a YETI Cooler, I think you're right: 13500 won't cut it.And yes, 30A is very limiting, and a 15000 A/C is harder to deal with on 30 than the 13500 is. That said, there are very few 50A Class C's. Also, state parks and some federal sites have only 30A, so you can end up in the Thirty Amp Trap anyhow. We can function in the hot summer sun and humidity, even with no shade, if we run the A/C all day, close blinds, and curtain the cockpit off. We can run the A/C (and converter/charger of course) plus about one other major 120-VAC draw. Not always microwave... And we heat water using LP, not the Electric feature.

j-d wrote: and curtain the cockpit off.THIS is a BIG factor.The cab absorbs a LOT of heat when the sun is shining.....even with a window shade.I am going to make an insulated curtain for mine.I don't think you should panic before you actually try it out.I assume mine is 13.5; it's ducted in the ceiling and keeps up fine.But yes you do have to watch what else you run while the A/C is cooling.My 30 amp power cord gets a little warm.

I will make sure the first thing I do is make some custom insulated curtains for the cab.

13.5 AC Unit | Good Sam Community

bayoubelle
Explorer
Jul 15, 2016
Yes, we had that same problem with our 35ft 5ver, we had to install a 2nd A/C in the bedroom. The 15 BTU wouldn't cool the bedroom down, but that was mainly an air flow problem.

So that is why we are really concerned about the 13.5 unit. There are two options, 1 - 15,000 btu'son 30 Amp or 2nd A/C in bedroom and 50 amp upgrade.

We don't want to run into that problem again, traveling in the summer can be brutal, and going out west means spending a week in Texas. (LOL, not quite, but it seems like it)

Thanks
DutchmenSport
Explorer
Jul 15, 2016
Our Keystone TT with no slides had a 13.5 single (forced or ducked) AC. We never had problems cooling with it, even in hot temperatures.

When we got the 35 1/2 footer with 3 slides, the original 13.5 just didn't cut it. We swapped it out for a 15,000 (single AC unit) and it's done great every since, even in some pretty hot temps.

2 way to keep the camper cool.

1) start the AC in the morning and let it run. Don't start it once it's already hot inside the camper. This is true for any size AC unit.

2) If driving all day and the unit is hot when you stop, start the AC with all the slides in. This makes the initial cooling space much less, and even a 13.5 will probably cool a 30 footer, even later in the day when it's already hot. After it cools down inside, then open one slide at a time and the AC will be able to keep up. If you open everything at once at the offset, the AC most likely will not bring the temperature down. It's just too much space and the inside is just too hot.

However, you should not have a problem with scenario 2, as your's is a CLASS-C. When driving you will have your dash AC on, keeping the coach cooler than inside a TT or a 5er. Also, if you have a generator on board, you have the option to run the generator and run the house AC when traveling, unlike a TT or 5er that does not have generators.

Here again, before purchasing, have the seller turn on the AC and see how it works.

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