1992 onan on board generator operation startup

https://www.cumminsonan.com/www/html/Common/pdf/rv/F-1123.pdf


Starting And Stopping Procedures
Your Cummins Onan generator can be started and stopped from the integral
control panel on the generator, or from the optional remote control panel inside the
vehicle if your RV is so equipped. Your Operator’s Manual outlines the simple steps
for starting and stopping. Remember to:
• Before starting the generator, turn off air conditioners and large electrical loads.
• Before starting in cold weather, turn off all appliances for best long-term
performance.
• Prime by holding stop (all Quiet Diesels, Quiet Gas 3600-7000).
• To start - press and hold start at the control panel or at the set.
- Quiet Diesel: auto pre-heat flash, then crank/start
- Don’t over-crank with no start
• Before turning on appliances, let the generator warm up for a few minutes.
• Turn off air conditioners and large electrical loads and allow the generator to run
for 3-5 minutes before stopping, to allow the generator to cool down.

Dutch_12078 wrote:
I don't recommend plugging in with the generator running for the same reason it isn't recommended to plug into a shore power source with the breaker turned on. Any load at all will cause some level of arcing at the plug/outlet contacts during insertion.

That is impossible on his unit. His AC cord is what goes into the generator output. This is pre ATS. If you wait to plug it in you are positive there is proper output voltage. Plugging in before starting the gen. will have an immediate load.

I would run Seafoam through the generator for 15 minutes then stop the engine for 1/2 hour. Restart and see if that solves your problem. If not, adjust the choke.

I don't recommend plugging in with the generator running for the same reason it isn't recommended to plug into a shore power source with the breaker turned on. Any load at all will cause some level of arcing at the plug/outlet contacts during insertion.

jyrostng wrote:
right out of the onan manual
Onan 4000 manual


Choke Assembly
The genset has an automatic choke assembly that
consists of a bimetal choke coil, coil housing, heater
tube (from the exhaust tube), and choke linkage.
The choke linkage connects to the choke shaft lever
on the carburetor.
When the engine is cold, the choke coil position
causes the linkage to hold the choke nearly closed.
When the engine starts, hot air from the exhaust
manifold enters the coil housing. The choke coil expands
pulling the linkage to partially open the
choke. As the engine warms up, the coil continues
to expand and gradually opens the choke and holds
it open while the engine is operating. This action
varies the fuel/air mixture as the engine warms up to
provide smooth engine operation.
If the engine starts but runs rough and exhausts
black smoke after a minute or two of operation, the
choke setting is too rich. If the engine starts but
sputters or stops before it warms up, the choke setting
is too lean.
Choke Adjustment: Check the choke linkage to
make sure it is not bent or rubbing. Rotate the choke
lever on the carburetor. The choke shaft should
move freely and it should return to its original position
when released. Inspect the heater hose to
make sure it is installed properly and in good condition.
Refer to Figure 8-15 on Page 8-18.
WARNING The choke housing becomes very
hot during operation and can cause severe
burns if touched. Allow the genset to cool down
before handling the choke assembly.
1. Allow the genset to cool down. The temperature
inside the housing must be the same as
the ambient temperature.
2. Loosen the adjustment screw holding the adjustment
plate.
3. Slowly rotate the adjustment plate until the bimetal
choke shaft connection is visible in the
sight window. This is the correct setting for an
ambient temperature of 70° F (21° C).
If the ambient temperature is higher or lower
than 70° F (21° C), make a mark on the choke
coil housing opposite the center mark on the
adjustment plate. Each mark on the adjustment
plate is equal to 10° F (12.2° C) of difference
from 70°F (21°C). If it is warmer than 70°F (21°
C), rotate the plate clockwise. If the temperature
is less than 70° F (21° C), rotate the plate
counterclockwise. Tighten the adjustment
screw.
Example: If the ambient temperature is 90° F
(32° C), rotate the adjustment plate two marks
clockwise from the 70° F (21° C) position
marked on the housing.
4. Move the choke lever back and forth to check
for free movement. Verify that the choke does
not bind or stick.

Thats awesome thanks . My Manuel didn't have this in it I looked .
its been around for few years Im going to have a closer look tomorrow . and give it a try . It will fix my start up issue :) Im starting to think this is why first owner didn't use it much . choke set to rich its got a mean galup to it . will post my findings .
Itasca55

right out of the onan manual
Onan 4000 manual


Choke Assembly
The genset has an automatic choke assembly that
consists of a bimetal choke coil, coil housing, heater
tube (from the exhaust tube), and choke linkage.
The choke linkage connects to the choke shaft lever
on the carburetor.
When the engine is cold, the choke coil position
causes the linkage to hold the choke nearly closed.
When the engine starts, hot air from the exhaust
manifold enters the coil housing. The choke coil expands
pulling the linkage to partially open the
choke. As the engine warms up, the coil continues
to expand and gradually opens the choke and holds
it open while the engine is operating. This action
varies the fuel/air mixture as the engine warms up to
provide smooth engine operation.
If the engine starts but runs rough and exhausts
black smoke after a minute or two of operation, the
choke setting is too rich. If the engine starts but
sputters or stops before it warms up, the choke setting
is too lean.
Choke Adjustment: Check the choke linkage to
make sure it is not bent or rubbing. Rotate the choke
lever on the carburetor. The choke shaft should
move freely and it should return to its original position
when released. Inspect the heater hose to
make sure it is installed properly and in good condition.
Refer to Figure 8-15 on Page 8-18.
WARNING The choke housing becomes very
hot during operation and can cause severe
burns if touched. Allow the genset to cool down
before handling the choke assembly.
1. Allow the genset to cool down. The temperature
inside the housing must be the same as
the ambient temperature.
2. Loosen the adjustment screw holding the adjustment
plate.
3. Slowly rotate the adjustment plate until the bimetal
choke shaft connection is visible in the
sight window. This is the correct setting for an
ambient temperature of 70° F (21° C).
If the ambient temperature is higher or lower
than 70° F (21° C), make a mark on the choke
coil housing opposite the center mark on the
adjustment plate. Each mark on the adjustment
plate is equal to 10° F (12.2° C) of difference
from 70°F (21°C). If it is warmer than 70°F (21°
C), rotate the plate clockwise. If the temperature
is less than 70° F (21° C), rotate the plate
counterclockwise. Tighten the adjustment
screw.
Example: If the ambient temperature is 90° F
(32° C), rotate the adjustment plate two marks
clockwise from the 70° F (21° C) position
marked on the housing.
4. Move the choke lever back and forth to check
for free movement. Verify that the choke does
not bind or stick.

PB blaster or Sea Foam Deep Creep

all over the choke and throttle linkage
make sure to hit the Governor shaft pivot where it goes into the engine

Our coaches pre-date reliable transfer switches, so they were all built with the APU outlet in the cable bay. We leave them plugged in always.

To unload the APU (genset) for starting, just don't turn anything on. Even my 40+yo Onan 4K will run up with the load of the converter and the waterheater (maybe - it is not always on). If we are underway and want the roof air or the microwave, we just fire the APU and wait the 30~45 seconds until it is stable.

Matt

I leave my cord plugged in when starting, circuit breaker on the gen set is on,

once it starts, I wait about 2 minutes, then turn on circuit breakers inside cabin, the circuit breakers inside the cabin are the ones that power your charger and everything else inside the MH.

With the circuit breakers off inside the MH, there is NO load on the gen set.

Shut down is the opposite, turn off all circuit breakers, let gen set run for 2 minutes then turn off gen set.

You do NOT have to unplug the cord, while driving how else are you going to get power to the MH, this way if you want to run your A/C you can without having to stop

I agree with both of gbopp's post. I think that a generator performs better if it is exercised on a regular basis. We even exercised our standby and main generators in the utility industry.

I believe that the generator should stabilize before load is put on it, just like an auto transfer switch would do. Since you have a plug I would turn off or open the main breaker then plug in. After plugging in I would turn on or close the main breaker. Circuit breakers are made to take the arc that is created when current passes through the contacts, prongs on the plug are not made for that. I have also seen plugs explode when removed with high current on them. It is uncommon , but it does happen. JMO