I recently replaced the radiator (Performance Radiator 2691CBR), water pump (CARQUEST 51-1709), all hoses and fan clutch (Ford AU2Z-8A616-P) on my 1995 F53. The new fan clutch was coming on while temp was still at mid-scale. About 250 miles after installing it locked up and would not disengage. I had a new Ford fan clutch put on the exact same thing happened again. Before it locked up I noticed odorless white smoke coming from under the dash. I suspect it was the silicon fluid in the fan clutch burning up. The AU2Z-8A616-P is a fairly new part replacing the discontinued F2TZ-8A616-B. It is listed to fit the F53 and the F-250 & F-350. I have read on the forum that truck fan clutches will not work on the F53 so wondering if the AU2Z-8A616-P is undersized for the F53? Has anybody else used an AU2Z-8A616-P on a mid-90 F53? The rest of the cooling system is working perfectly - never gets much beyond mid-scale even on long climbs. I also suspect the fan clutch is not fully engaged as the fan noise is not as loud as when the original fan clutch engaged. I find it hard to believe I got two defective fan clutches and very hesitant to have a third AU2Z-8A616-P installed. I am leaning towards going with a Hayden 2799. Any thoughts or ideas of what else could be causing this?

Hmm...I guess no one else has experienced problems with fan clutches?

You might have the moderator move this to 'class A' for more exposure.Otherwise I don't think that smoke under the dash is related to the clutch.My experience a new fan clutch is fairly stiff. Not going to freewheel like an old one.

Not this particular white smoke problem. But I have had clutches "windmill" a fan that effectively blocks 2/3rds the airflow through the radiator. With an E-350 diesel years ago, I managed to find an aftermarket monster of a fan clutch that did not fail and worked flawlessly. But now everything is made in the middle of a rice paddy so the old standby remedy is probably rubbish.Talk about hysterical, in the heat I clamped on a FANTASTIC FAN portableENDLESS BREEZE fan in front of my A/C condenser blowing rearward. Inside A/C vent temperatures dropped dramatically (8F) although it didn't do much of anything for the engine coolant temperature.Here's a link to Hayden and down the page is a "Severe Duty" clutchhttp://www.haydenauto.com/featured%20products-fan%20clutches%20and%20fan%20blades/content.aspx

I too would go with an Hayden fan clutch, comes from problems with other "major" brands, not mentioning any names.

1995 F53 Fan Clutch - defective Ford parts? | Good Sam Community

Outwest63
Explorer
Nov 29, 2014
Adventurer1, sorry for the delay in responding I've been in an area without cell or internet service. The fan did not run as long at it did with the OEM clutch, it actually pulled more air through the radiator and cooled the system better. Did not see any change in the gas mileage.
Adventurer1
Explorer
Nov 20, 2014
Thanks for the reply Jim. That is what I was afraid of. I am not so worried about it over cooling the engine - it is the impact on gas mileage and the noise. So I am assuming when it does come on it stays on longer also? So overall is the fan running more with the Hayden clutch than it did with the OEM clutch?
Outwest63
Explorer
Nov 20, 2014
In August of this year I replaced the fan clutch on my 95 F-53 with the Hayden fan clutch. It solved the over heating problems I had been experiencing. It does engage at a lower temperature that the OEM fan clutch, however it does not cool the engine below the normal operating temperature.
Adventurer1
Explorer
Nov 19, 2014
Checked the movement of the fan/shaft as outlined in the Service Bulletin - I did not observe any noticeable movement of the shaft. I would like to hear from anyone that is using the Hayden 2799 on a 460 F53 and how it operates. Thanks.
rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Nov 19, 2014
Here is a good read on fan clutches. It also explains the difference between standard and severe duty clutches.
Since it senses the temperature of air through your radiator, I guess that the distance the clutch is from the radiator and the air flow through and around the radiator is important in when the fan clutch engages.
Fan clutch operation and troubleshooting
Adventurer1
Explorer
Nov 19, 2014
Nice find! I did stumble across this but given there was a new water pump install with the new clutch I didn't given it much thought. I guess I could have received a defective water pump. I would have hoped the Ford dealership that put on the second clutch would have checked for this. They didn't indicated that the failure seem to be due to bearing, seal or shaft separation. It is an easy thing to check so I will do that today. Thanks!
sjholt
Explorer
Nov 19, 2014
Service Bulletin: Repeated Failures of New Fan Clutches
Multiple failures of New Fan Clutches on the same vehicle when the failure appears to be bearing, seal or shaft separation related should perform the following:
Closely inspect and replace the water pump if visible movement of the shaft in a vertical or horizontal direction is noted when checked by physically applying pressure to the fan blade in a front to back direction with the vehicle turned off and the battery disconnected.
Adventurer1
Explorer
Nov 18, 2014
Yes, the temp seen by the clutch is the air temp. I am suspecting when you have the AC on on a hot day the air temp blowing over the thermal spring is easily going to be over 170 degrees. The Ford clutch is spec at 195 so that is a big spread - 25 degrees. The old clutch would kick in when the engine temp reached between the "A" and "L" of "Normal" on the temp gauge then the temp would quickly (30 secs to a minute) drop back down to between "R" and "M" and the clutch would disengage. I would like to hear how the Hayden 2799 operates on the 460 F53.
Oldme
Explorer
Nov 18, 2014
wolfe10...

For inquiring minds that want to know.

Per link above...

"The air temperature cumming through the radiator is
sensed by the bi-metal thermal spring on the front
of the thermal fan clutch".
wolfe10
Explorer
Nov 18, 2014
I agree. Having the fan clutch engage (i.e. take a lot of HP and make a lot of noise) at temperatures BELOW thermostatic control means it will be on all the time.

Exception is if the 170 degrees is AIR temperature at the fan-- suspect air temperature will be lower than coolant temperature. Inquiring minds want to know.