I have a 1995 Georgie Boy Pursuit, 27', 454 TBI with front disc and rear drum brakes. Purchased the rig about 1 year ago and did a complete front end brake job: turned rotors, new ceramic pads, repack bearings, new rubber brake lines, new master cylinder, fluid flush, etc. I also meticulously cleaned all of the moving caliper parts with wire brush (using drill attachment) and applied grease (although I should have purchased extra as they don't give you much with the new pads). Since that time I have taken it out on several short trips and one longer trip (~500 miles round trip), but for the past 4-5 months it has been sitting in the driveaway. I try to drive it to work every 4-6 weeks when not using it. Last week I drove it to work and noticed a burning smell, which turned out to be the brakes. I measured the rotor temps at ~440 deg F -both sides; happend in the morning drive to work and the evening drive home. I drove it again to/from work about 3 days later and it was fine; rotor temps were ~ 240 degrees - both sides.I have studied forums and two main causes appear to be bad rubber brake lines (swelling/pinched) or sticking calipers, but I supposedly took care of that with new hoses and brake job. The problem is evidently intermittent and the one time it did happen, both sides exhibited the same problem. Is it common for both sides to stick like that and/or could that help with diagnosing the problem?Thanks for any/all suggestions.

Sounds like the pins are not releasing the rotors when you let off the brakes - as you guessed.I had a similar problem with my 3500 GMC motorhome. Front brakes dragging when the pins fail to let it slide back and forth to release both sides of the rotor. The piston is on one side, and that side releases, but the whole caliper slides over to grab the opposing side when the brakes are applied. If it does not slide back, then the outside brake pad will stay engaged, and overheat! Looks like you will need to lube the sliders some more. Check your local NAPA auto parts store, they probably have the right stuff, or perhaps some 'high temp disk brake lube' (for bearings) will offer enough heat rating?Good thing that you caught this problem on a short drive to work, not in the middle of a 250 mile drive. Fred.

Calipers not retracting on slides. My rig does not have pins, but grooves where the calipers slide. These grooves must be very clear of any rust and old lubricant before installing with new high temperature brake lube. The standard lube used by many auto repair shops will harden after being exposed to high heat.The calipers slide on these pieces on the lower end and the caliper mount on the top. This the style on my rig.Hardware

Thanks guys, I do have the "grooves" like Bud mentioned and I thoroughly cleaned all moving pieces on the caliper with wire wheel brush using a drill. I used high temp grease that came with new pads, but there was not a lot of grease. Should have used high temp wheel bearing grease since I have plenty of that. Regardless, does it not seem odd that both sides would have the problem? Could that point to some other problem? This was my first ever brake job with this type of caliper, so maybe I made a bonehead mistake on both sides; but its not exactly high tech to understand.

No, do not use wheel bearing grease. It should be brake caliper grease. Little packette is not nearly enough. Lubricant needs to go on both end of the caliper.This is what I used.Lubricant

It sounds to me like some kind of a fluid problem either the fluid is not returning to the master cylinder or the piston on the caliper is too tight. Sounds like you cleaned the caliper slide well, your lines are all brand-new, is the master cylinder a new one or rebuilt one? I have had a similar problem with a rebuilt master cylinder.

1995 P32 Rotors Overheating | Good Sam Community

54 Replies

enblethen
Nomad
Feb 07, 2015
No, do not use wheel bearing grease. It should be brake caliper grease. Little packette is not nearly enough. Lubricant needs to go on both end of the caliper.
This is what I used.
Lubricant
1969SSCamaro
Explorer
Feb 07, 2015
Thanks guys, I do have the "grooves" like Bud mentioned and I thoroughly cleaned all moving pieces on the caliper with wire wheel brush using a drill. I used high temp grease that came with new pads, but there was not a lot of grease. Should have used high temp wheel bearing grease since I have plenty of that. Regardless, does it not seem odd that both sides would have the problem? Could that point to some other problem? This was my first ever brake job with this type of caliper, so maybe I made a bonehead mistake on both sides; but its not exactly high tech to understand.
enblethen
Nomad
Feb 07, 2015
Calipers not retracting on slides.
My rig does not have pins, but grooves where the calipers slide. These grooves must be very clear of any rust and old lubricant before installing with new high temperature brake lube. The standard lube used by many auto repair shops will harden after being exposed to high heat.
The calipers slide on these pieces on the lower end and the caliper mount on the top. This the style on my rig.
Hardware
Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Feb 07, 2015
Sounds like the pins are not releasing the rotors when you let off the brakes - as you guessed.

I had a similar problem with my 3500 GMC motorhome. Front brakes dragging when the pins fail to let it slide back and forth to release both sides of the rotor. The piston is on one side, and that side releases, but the whole caliper slides over to grab the opposing side when the brakes are applied. If it does not slide back, then the outside brake pad will stay engaged, and overheat!

Looks like you will need to lube the sliders some more. Check your local NAPA auto parts store, they probably have the right stuff, or perhaps some 'high temp disk brake lube' (for bearings) will offer enough heat rating?

Good thing that you caught this problem on a short drive to work, not in the middle of a 250 mile drive.

Fred.

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1995 P32 Rotors Overheating

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