The motorhome was placed into storage in Late Oct, or early November. It was stored with a full tank of gasoline and with enough fuel stabilizer to stabilize the fuel for up to 2 years (or enough to stabilize twice the amount of fuel in the tank). When parked, we had just returned from a 2000 mile trip, and had another 2000 mile trip about 4-6 weeks prior. Everything was great, tons of power and running smooth. Purring like a kitten.Started it up last weekend for the first time since parking. Of course it was colder than the engine liked (23 degrees F), but after a few attempts it did start. At idle, the engine runs well, and when the throttle is pressed it revs up quickly and has a healthy, loud, fast, roar. There is no misfiring, stuttering, or backfiring as it idles or throttles down from 5000 rpm. When shifting into gear, it is smooth and responsive. In town, the vehicle seems to perform as normal except for in hard accelerations where you can feel some slight (I dont know what to call the symptions) ??variation in engine power?? On the highway, it has a real hard time getting over 50mph. Going up a slight grade (maybe 3 percent?) it simply cannot exceed 50mph, and this is with throttle to floor at around 4-4.5k rpm!I had this thing to 75mph (just to get to know its limits) last fall with no issues aside from the fuel guage lolBottom line, engine runs super great. Whats up?Ideas on what it could be:Fuel filter (Where is it)Fuel pumpTransmission slipping

What you describe is likely a fuel problem. Look for that fuel filter somewhere along the frame on the left side. No telling how fresh the fuel was when you filled up last year.

If I were to take a guess, I would suspect water in the fuel. Ethanol is notorious for attracting water. If the water is in suspension you probably can just run it out and see how it drives with fresh fuel. Stabilizer helps keep the fuel from gumming up the lines and injectors however preventing water is a different thing entirely. With your next tank of fuel add some fuel injector cleaner. I don't know where the fuel filter on your rig is but it is usually under the doghouse. If you want to prevent the problem in the future install a water block filter which will shut down the engine if you get water in it.

I appreciate the replies! I will check for the filter under the drivers seat frame rail. If I dont see it ill just keep following the rail until I do. I just need to get the $5 quick release tool and a replacement filter. I dont know when this filter was changed last, but the coach just popped 90,000 miles so I think its a safe bet it needs to be changed. For msturtz, I was told that storing with a full tank prevents water buildup as it has nowhere to build-up in? I dont know if this is accurate or not, just asking.The stabilizer I used is/was multifunction... apparantly its a 3in1 fuel system treatment that consists of injector cleaner, line cleaner, and stabilizer. I forget the brand, but reviews suggested it was reliable. Is there a way to remove water from the system without trying to run it? I am certain that running water cannot be good for an internal combustion engine....

If the tank was full it probably isn't condensation in the tank. It sounds like the fuel filter which is in the frame on the left side at or near the transmission cross hanger.

Just checking in to follow thread as this is an issue I'll probably deal with.

1999 2v v10 f53 fleetwood bounder poor performance

superk
Explorer
Mar 26, 2015
I confirmed that its an obd 1 system, with an obd2 connector. Scan guage 2 was used, which is compatible with both. In the end, the code was as assumed, speed sensor failure. Unfortunately, I need a dealer to reprogram the computer with the proper tire size to clear the code and prevent it from coming back.

Also confirmed that the sensor is off due to this, I was following my SUV which was on cruise at 55mph, and the coach was registering 58ish.
dodge_guy
Explorer II
Mar 26, 2015
On the OBD 1 and 2 questions. HD vehicles (over 8600lbs) run OBDI software in an OBDII pkg. OBDI will not register misfires, catalytic converter failures (no downstream O2 sensors), and some don't have EGR.

My Excursion is an 02 and has OBDI software in an OBDII pkg. yes it will still have an OBDII connector but the system doesn't have the software to monitor other systems. And yes OBDII scanners will read, it will just show up with certain monitors that have not passed (and never will), and some data pids that don't exist in the software.
jhilley
Explorer
Mar 26, 2015
MountainAir05 wrote:
jhilley wrote:
You mention earlier in the thread that the check engine light came on. Regardless off what it said on the air filter, if you have a V-10 you have OBD-II. Did you ever read the code?

Just info:

Some 99 and 2000 had ODB-1s. I have a 99 and neighbor has 2000 and both have ODB-1s. Ford was contacted and they stated that the F-53 is not a passenger vehicle and due to weight it can have either.

How did you determine you had OBD-I? Where is the connector? I have had sever friends that thought they had OBD-I because of stickers, but they actually had OBD-II connectors along side the steering column. We put Scan Guage II on all of them.
MountainAir05
Explorer II
Mar 26, 2015
superk wrote:
At 91000 miles, and a noticeable lack of maintenance on this unit by previous owners, I feel compelled to change coils, and while coils are off, plugs as well.

I plan to run some seafoam through a vacuum intake to help break up the carbon on the inside of the engine. Then, after removing all 10 coils, I will blow out the holes with 120psi air. Penetrating oil will be allowed to work its magic overnight and in the morning I will attempt to loosen each plug gently. After about 2 turns, i will blow more 120psi air to prevent debris from entering the cylinder. I will lightly coat the threads of the plugs with anti-seize and gently thread them in until they snug up. I will torque them to 13ft lbs. I will then coat the plug in dielectric grease and install the COPs.

Miss aything?

I do not have to remove the rails, just some hoses and lines. Just depends on which intake you have. Seems to comes with several.

I read that you may or may not need to loosen a fuel rail? Is this applicable for the f53 since we can just remove the doghouse and have full overhead engine access?
MountainAir05
Explorer II
Mar 26, 2015
jhilley wrote:
You mention earlier in the thread that the check engine light came on. Regardless off what it said on the air filter, if you have a V-10 you have OBD-II. Did you ever read the code?

Just info:

Some 99 and 2000 had ODB-1s. I have a 99 and neighbor has 2000 and both have ODB-1s. Ford was contacted and they stated that the F-53 is not a passenger vehicle and due to weight it can have either.
jhilley
Explorer
Mar 26, 2015
You mention earlier in the thread that the check engine light came on. Regardless off what it said on the air filter, if you have a V-10 you have OBD-II. Did you ever read the code?
superk
Explorer
Mar 26, 2015
At 91000 miles, and a noticeable lack of maintenance on this unit by previous owners, I feel compelled to change coils, and while coils are off, plugs as well.

I plan to run some seafoam through a vacuum intake to help break up the carbon on the inside of the engine. Then, after removing all 10 coils, I will blow out the holes with 120psi air. Penetrating oil will be allowed to work its magic overnight and in the morning I will attempt to loosen each plug gently. After about 2 turns, i will blow more 120psi air to prevent debris from entering the cylinder. I will lightly coat the threads of the plugs with anti-seize and gently thread them in until they snug up. I will torque them to 13ft lbs. I will then coat the plug in dielectric grease and install the COPs.

Miss aything?

I read that you may or may not need to loosen a fuel rail? Is this applicable for the f53 since we can just remove the doghouse and have full overhead engine access?
GREGORYJ
Explorer
Mar 26, 2015
I believe MountainAir05 is referring to changing the spark plugs. The COP's are easy to change. You have to be careful when changing plugs on this engine.
Up till about 2001 or 2002, the V-10 aluminum heads only had 3 threads holding each spark plug in place. These 3 threads can be stripped if spark plug torque
procedure isn't followed. Some V-10 owner's have had spark plug(s) blow out of the heads because of thread damage, over or under torgues, using wrong type of spark plugs,etc. Lots of discussions on the Ford Truck site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/695263-spark-plug-confusion.html. I did mine and it wasn't hard with some good info and tools. Should you decide to change the plugs, do some reading first.
Good Luck.
MountainAir05
Explorer II
Mar 26, 2015
soak them with wd 40 after you blow out the crud with air and let set over night. Go easy taking them out and anti seize when installing them. Follow the torque requirements.
superk
Explorer
Mar 26, 2015
Ok I just ordered this

Ford 10 Ignition Coil DG508 10 Motorcraft Spark Plug SP479 B267 10 IC170 New | eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/350779798877

I am going to change the coils. This thread, and another I started on another forum have suggested multiple times that the COPs might be bad. Figured, might as well change the plugs while I am at it. I have no idea when/if they have been changed since stock. The coach now has 91000 miles on its odometer, so might as well change them, judging by the terrible maintenance on this unit from its previous owner, these more than likely have not been changed.

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1999 2v v10 f53 fleetwood bounder poor performance

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