Forum Discussion
- AvaExplorerA solenoid is not hard to replace if you are comfortable in knowing how the system works and where it is. I had an issue with mine where I was sure it was a solenoid but the controller pad was the problem. We may not have the same system but they are probably similar.
- howdy35Explorer IIBefore buying solenoid check to see if you have 12 volt to the selenoids or not. If it is a Power gear setup, there might be 3-4 selenoids and valves involved to operate the system. The "dump" valve activates and allows fluid to flow back into the reserve tank and thus raise the jacks. It has to have 12 volt to work.
Does it have springs to raise the jacks? Sounds like it does since someone released the pressure to raise the jacks. In that case, the selenoids need 12 volt power to operate. Somewhere there are fuses to check and verify 12 volt.
In order to really help, we need more information as to the make of the system. ID numbers? Maybe a picture of the system? I just went through the same type of problem and I would advise to check out some other things before throwing more money at it.
There is a lot of help here on the forum if you can provide more detailed information on the type of jacks you have. Power Gear has a great manual you can download if that is your brand. And lastly a solenoid can be purchased on E-Bay or from NW RV Supply in Oregon. Best of luck
Arnold - JimExplorerIf you have a '94 Bounder 'similar' Power Gear leveling system, it might help to check out my blog post. It'll show some pics of the coils. As others have said, the solenoids are 12V so your mechanic, if he didn't try to power the 'drop RV' solenoid but just released pressure, probably didn't check for power or even run a jumper over to the solenoid to power it, which would have dropped the RV.
Power Gear Leveling '94 Bounder... - MrWizardModeratorDepending on location of the system and design
You can manually push the valve to release the pressure and retract the jacks - crassterExplorer IIWhat type/brand of jacks are installed in those coaches? Most likely you missed a pressure release valve. The solenoid is not very hard to change at all if you are familiar with basic tools. Can you get photos of the system or more details about it?
- Triker33ExplorerMounted under the Power Gear touch pad there is a control panel that has fuses. Check for blown fuse.
Fuse replacement for manual control touch pad
XF1 = Power unit motor starter solenoid fuse 1.6 AMP.
XF2 = Dump solenoid fuse 3.15 AMP.
XF3 = Left rear jack solenoid fuse 3.15 AMP. (RR)
XF4 = Right rear jack solenoid fuse 3.15 AMP. (CR)
XF5 = Front jack solenoid fuse 3.15 AMP. (F)
REMOVE: To remove fuse, use needle nose pliers and pull fuse straight out
INSTALL: To install fuse use needle nose pliers to insert the fuse making sure pins on fuse enter receptacle correctly - kidkashaExplorerHere are what my Hydraulic Jack looks like
- howdy35Explorer IIThanks for the picture. Okay, when you look at the picture you have three valves that are plainly showing. If they are like mine and they look to be, the top one controls the front legs, the middle controls the left rear and the lower controls the right rear. The valve that is kinda hidden and to the left of the three is the "dump" valve which when activated allows the fluid to release and flow back into the reservoir.
Somewhere on that wiring harness should be an in-line fuse. Check there to see of the fuse is good and you have 12 volts. If not, find the fuse box near the controller and check those fuses as per Triker33.
If those fuses are okay go to your fuse panel which should be inside one of your compartments. If like mine , you are looking for the fuse which is in the area of "ignition switches". One of those will be your "Jack control" Probably a 10 amp. Verify it is good. You are looking for 12 volt at the jack solenoids. When you verify 12 volts at the solenoids and the jacks still do not retract, then it might be the "dump" valve.
While you are in the fuse panel, be sure to check all the other fuses to see if they are okay. Ground your tester on the neutral bar in the compartment and with the pointy end of your tester touch both the top and bottom of each fuse. the light should light both times if the fuse is good. That saves you pulling and looking at each fuse. If you already know how to do that, I apologize for being so elementary. Best of luck and let us know how things are going. Arnold - kidkashaExplorerThank you very much. You are great, but if its the solenoid where is it located.
Is it possible by replacing oil it could correct this, as the RV guy that came out to campsite drains their after I replaced as it was dry and maybe I did not add enough oil so it didn't work. I never checked the oil in a very long time it have been the original problem.
I think I will have to have someone help me with this - howdy35Explorer IIWith the jacks up, fill the reservoir until it will just almost overflow. Then it is okay. Make sure to use the correct fluid. ATF
If you mean the "dump" solenoid, it will be the one back to the left of the three that are clearly shown in your picture. It will be the smallest of the four solenoids.
If the unit was not full enough, that could have been your problem. Fill and try. That may solve your problem. Please let us know how this comes out, If I can help further, let me know. Good Luck. Arnold
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