20 &30 amp to 50 amp adapter wiring?

cKarlGo wrote:
Out of curiosity, why would you do this yourself? The manufactured units are fairly cheap, tested and generally reliable.

"Service unavailable" message once again. What's going on with the forum hosting these days anyway?

Out of curiosity, why would you do this yourself? The manufactured units are fairly cheap, tested and generally reliable.

Out of curiosity, why would you do this yourself? The manufactured units are fairly cheap, tested and generally reliable.

Interesting stuff John. Thanks.

They work in older parks, Where there are no GFCI breakers. But in newer parks the code requires GFCI on the 20 amp. now I have had folks insist that "It works just fine" with a GFCI, but if it does, that's a DEFECTIVE GFCI, because the GFCI is SUPPOSED to trip.

Here is a better idea.

There used to be a company web page psrv dot net (Gone now) (power solutions RV) do not know why they vanished, They sold a 100 dollar device.

Old system:

Rv power system----Line to Rear A/C-----------Rear A/C

New system

Rv power --Same line----Junction box 1 Junction box 2-----Rear A/C

Junction box one extended the original line to a pigtail with an OUTLET

Junction box 2 had a matching INLET and a 20 amp breaker.

50 amp site,, Plug outlet onto inlet

30 amp site, Pull outlet off inlet, Plug in outlet end 12ga Extension cord, plug into park 20 amp outlet.

This avoids all GFCI issues.... I built my own version of this product, And am using it as I type.

Additional benefit.... If I need 120 volts on service of RV when NOT at a park (IE: side of road) for the Air Conpressor or something....

Fire up ONAN, pull outlet off inlet,, and plug in Air Compressor.

You could look at separating some loads, like AC. If you rewire an AC so it can be unplugged and replugged to an external, you can use a 20 or 30 amp circuit for just that load. Some folks have also put a separate line in through the wall so they can run a heater on a saparate line.

In the meantime, I was doing some additional research and found just you fellows were saying - they don't work with GFCI circuits.

I think that I'll take the advice given here and just shelf this idea and leave well enough alone. When needed, I'll just use the 30 amp supply on the occasion when 50 amp isn't available. Haven't really had any problem in the past when having to have to do that.

Thanks for all of the useful feedback here.

Dennis,
Thanks for the detailed info. I'll put that in my file.

My experience is it would be better to have a 30/30 cheater box instead of a 20/30 as any new or remodeled pedestal is required to have a GFCI 20amp receptacle. The cheater box will NOT work on a GFCI protected circuit. Save your money and effort......Dennis


But...if you decide you still want to go for it, here's what you'll need.

About 2' of 10/3 wire
About 2' of 12/3 wire
One 125VAC 30amp trailer plug
One 125VAC 15amp 3 wire angle plug
One125/ 250VAC 50amp 4 wire surface mount range plug. Make sure you waterproof it.
One 1" waterproof connector

Take both green wires from the plugs and wire them to the ground lug of the 50amp receptacle.
Take both white wires from the plugs and wire them to the neutral lug of the 50 amp receptacle.
Connect one of the black wires to the L1 lug of the 50 amp receptacle.
Connect the other black or red wire to the L2 lug of the 50 amp receptacle.
Make sure you waterproof the 50 amp receptacle.

NOW FOR THE CAVEAT....

BEFORE you plug in your COACH, TEST IT!!

Using a meter, connect L1 with the common. Voltage should be between 110VAC and 120VAC.
Connect L2 with the common. Voltage should be similar as above.
Finally measure between common and ground. Voltage should read 0.
You should get the same readings, measuring both L1 and L2 lugs with the ground lug.

Remember, I do not recommend using one of these devices as different campgrounds are not all wired the same. Lots of weird combinations out there with a lot of redneck wiring jobs. I take zero responsibility if you fry your coach using one of them......just sayin.....Dennis

Also of note, is that if this is placed on a circuit with a GFCI CB, it will pop the CB. Most modern cricuits of 30+ amps has a GFCI CB.

I would suggest you do some reading here;

http://community.fmca.com/topic/1670-50-amp-from-30-amp-cheater-boxes/

I don't think you will get 100 alps to your panel, likely 50 or 60! A 50 amp service puts 100 amps to the panel, 50 amps per hot bar.

Not sure they are very safe and I suspect they will also have troubles with GFCI's.