2001 E-450 front calipers siezed-what now?

I remember you talking about that in another post last year and it sounded like a great idea. Thanks for reminding me. I'll look into it.

Good point, Bryan! I didn't keep track of where OP is located.

OP, Bryan and I have both done that axle project and it's straightforward. Either of us can help with details. Your biggest concern might be R&R front springs. No worries! They simply drop out, no need for compression tools, heroics, etc.

Since your are local, I strongly recommend just going to QuadVan for a full axle replacement. Your rig is old enough the ball joints are probably getting a little rusty, and I'm sure your bushings are getting tired too. A new front axle will replace all those parts, AND give you much bigger brakes, and a better radius arm design.

If you a are a DIYer, you can pick up the whole axle for not much much more than new calipers and rotors!

The rear hardware kit looks like this:

Each of the long "Keys" is two pieces of stainless steel with a space-age plastic bonded between. Those pieces have retaining nubbins on both sides/both ends. The trick to getting them out is that the nubbins have to be squeezed in to clear the caliper bracket. Then driven through the bracket till they come out. It isn't apparent right away, but they have right/wrong ways to go back. For re-assembly, it helps to squeeze the key a little. I used a little 4" ViseGrip and the squeeze made installation much easier.

All the sliding brake hardware should be lubed with "ceramic" lube. The parts stores have small envelopes of it right at the registers. Or buy it in bulk.



Rears are just a little more tedious than fronts, but there are no big bracket bolts.

Cloud Driver has a great thread about rear brakes.

I've had a ton of issues with the caliper pistons binding up.
I replaced all the calipers and switched to slotted rotors. No issues at all now.

j-d wrote:
I had a front caliper seize up just after leaving the ranger station check-in after a 50-mile highway run. Go figure. I went and got Hoses, Pads and Calipers for both sides. Changed the stuck side on the campsite (lucked out on that one) and the other side when I got home. After another couple runs, I could see the new pads weren't seating on the uncut rotors. Removed rotors, had them re-surfaced, packed bearings and installed new seals. Much better.

I was NOT able to remove the Rotors before getting home to bigger tools than I had with me on the trip! The brackets keep them from coming off and are held with large metric bolts with 21mm (or 13/16") heads. Torque spec is 160-pounds and ours also had rust. As an aside, I believe some shops "re-pack wheel bearings" by doing only the outer ones...

I'd change both calipers, all four pads, and both hoses. After a few miles, look and see if the overnight rust is being cleaned off both sides of both rotors. If not, have them re-surfaced. Unless they're discolored (blue) and/or checkered (surface cracked) then, replace.

EDIT: Seeing the other replies, everybody's diagnosis is the same. Wanted to add, previous owners replaced rear calipers and I just had to do it again. Brake wasn't smokin' but had that burnt-electrical, slipping-clutch smell. REAR calipers aren't as easy to change as the fronts, and I don't mean just getting jacked up and dual wheels off. Up through 2007, Ford used key-type retaining hardware and the keys are a pain to drive out, worse to put back. 2008 and later uses slide bolts like the front.

Maybe I should pay to have the backs done? I have the tools but some things are worth paying for.

Thanks for the reply's. That's kind of what I figured. I was just hoping to get off a little cheaper. Better safe than sorry, no price on that. I'm headed out to the parts store.
Cheers!

I had a front caliper seize up just after leaving the ranger station check-in after a 50-mile highway run. Go figure. I went and got Hoses, Pads and Calipers for both sides. Changed the stuck side on the campsite (lucked out on that one) and the other side when I got home. After another couple runs, I could see the new pads weren't seating on the uncut rotors. Removed rotors, had them re-surfaced, packed bearings and installed new seals. Much better.

I was NOT able to remove the Rotors before getting home to bigger tools than I had with me on the trip! The brackets keep them from coming off and are held with large metric bolts with 21mm (or 13/16") heads. Torque spec is 160-pounds and ours also had rust. As an aside, I believe some shops "re-pack wheel bearings" by doing only the outer ones...

I'd change both calipers, all four pads, and both hoses. After a few miles, look and see if the overnight rust is being cleaned off both sides of both rotors. If not, have them re-surfaced. Unless they're discolored (blue) and/or checkered (surface cracked) then, replace.

EDIT: Seeing the other replies, everybody's diagnosis is the same. Wanted to add, previous owners replaced rear calipers and I just had to do it again. Brake wasn't smokin' but had that burnt-electrical, slipping-clutch smell. REAR calipers aren't as easy to change as the fronts, and I don't mean just getting jacked up and dual wheels off. Up through 2007, Ford used key-type retaining hardware and the keys are a pain to drive out, worse to put back. 2008 and later uses slide bolts like the front.

Replace calipers, disc pads, fluid and have the rotors turned.
Make sure calipers have metal pistons.

Probably should replace the calipers. I had a rear one stick and then unstick but a few months later it was smoking the brake big time. Finally replaced it like I should have when it first stuck.