Forum Discussion

deprived's avatar
deprived
Explorer
Nov 02, 2017

2007 E450 Cruise Control D.O.A.

In the middle of a long haul yesterday my cruise control suddenly stopped working.

I did some reading about how to address this issue.

There is no CC fuse per se as it is part of either the powertrain module or horn, both of which work.

The first suggestion is to have the cruise control self-diagnose by holding down the "off" button while turing the key to the last position before "start." Thereafter the cruse control icon is supposed to flash a certain number of times to help indicate what the problem might be.

However, my cruise control icon does not light of at all. So I'm not entirely sure what my next move is. Without the circuit doing it's own diagnosing, I really am not sure what to do other than replace the pressure switch on the MC or perhaps the CC buttons.

But I hate throwing parts at a problem.

Has anyone else here personally had to deal with this particular problem on the E-series Ford Chassis?

THANKS!

EDITED FOR BAD TYPING
Class C
  • DrewE's avatar
    DrewE
    Explorer II
    Nov 02, 2017
    It seems it would not be too hard to check the MC pressure switch--or, for that matter, the buttons--with an electrical continuity tester or ohmmeter.
  • Beverley_Ken's avatar
    Beverley_Ken
    Explorer
    Nov 02, 2017
    Not sure which vehicle it was, but I had a similar issue, On the brake pedal there were 2 switches, one to turn the brake lights on and a second switch to deactivate the cruise control, with wear, the cruise switch thought that the brake pedal was depressed, only a minute adjustment. Simplest was would be to lift the brake pedal with your toe and see If the cruise control works. If that is the problem, then an adjustment needs to be made at the switch/pedal area, if not, sorry.
    Another issue I had with our E450 was the remote operation of the power door locks not working, switches on inside of door worked but not the fobs. I was told to reboot, reset the remote module, but couldn't locate the module or correct fuse, finally disconnected the Ford battery for about 1/2 hour. When I reconnected the battery the remote key fobs worked.

    Ken
  • carringb's avatar
    carringb
    Explorer
    Nov 02, 2017
    X2 on one of the brake switches. Either the M/C pressure switch or the pedal switch.
  • Krusty's avatar
    Krusty
    Nomad II
    Nov 02, 2017
    Did the cruise control indicator work before the cruise quit working? If so, this could be a clue. The most common problem with this system is the deactivation switch on the master cylinder. Easy test is to disconnect the switch and jump the two terminals in the harness connector together and take it for a drive. If it works now, replace the switch. Also check the switch for brake fluid leakage into the connector. There was a recall on this switch, it could be covered.
  • deprived's avatar
    deprived
    Explorer
    Nov 06, 2017
    UPDATE: Replaced the master cylinder cutoff switch and the CC will still not go in to self-diagnostic mode. The CC icon doesn't even light up when I key the engine on. I assume it should.

    I can say for certain, however, that the CC icon did light up before it stopped working.

    I checked the brake pedal switch and as far as I can tell it is working as it should because the brake lights remain off unless the pedal is depressed. Disconnecting the switch entirely also made no difference.

    At this point, I am not sure what else I should be looking at.
  • deprived's avatar
    deprived
    Explorer
    Nov 06, 2017
    ANOTHER UPDATE: I did run a diagnostic to make sure that the CC bulb does work and, hey, it does.

    You can test gauges and bulbs by keying the system to "on" while holding down the trip odometer reset. Then you can cycle through gauge and icon tests. Kinda cool.

    Anyway, so I know the bulb works.
  • carringb's avatar
    carringb
    Explorer
    Nov 06, 2017
    Do the 4-way hazards work ok? They can flash on the dash, but a bad "multi-function" switch can cause rear light and CC problems. Basically it can leak enough voltage the PCM thinks you're on the brakes.

    Anyways, I think the multi-funciton switch is a good place to continue looking. For your testing purposes, you could try unplugging (in the steering column shroud) and see if that makes a difference.

    Seems like those switch fail often after 10 years.... And besides bizarre light anomalies, the only diagnostics method is "replace with known good unit".
  • photobug's avatar
    photobug
    Explorer
    Nov 06, 2017
    my E350 van CC stopped working a while ago. About the same time, the airbag light came on. Diag. hi resistance on drivers airbag. I suspect there's a wiring issue within the steering wheel. Local repair place won't touch airbags, Ford dealer hasn't impressed me. Selling the van anyways so I don't want to dump a lot of money into it. Some other approach for you to look at.
  • tiogaearl31's avatar
    tiogaearl31
    Explorer
    Nov 07, 2017
    I had the same problem on my 2008 Tioga with the E450. Took it to a Ford truck repair shop and they said it was the "clock switch".
    Some type of multi-switch unit in the top of the steering column. They replaced it and I have had no more problems. They did remark that this is a common problem.
    Good Luck, Earl
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    Nov 08, 2017
    It's called a "clock spring" but it's a special wiring, similar to a ribbon cable in a computer. Flat multi conductor wire wound so it rolls and unrolls as you turn the wheel. The simple slip rings we had before are too noisy electrically for air bags, radio, cruise, etc.

About Motorhome Group

38,705 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 14, 2025