Forum Discussion
- carringbExplorerThey aren't "notorious" for it. It's just the only problem they've really ever had. But it was very limited.
The initial '97-99 V10s only had 4 threads, so the plugs weren't hanging on tight to start with, but the bigger problem was over-torquing them during services.
2000-2003 had more threads, but it turned out the real root cause from some (again, only a small number) having plugs blown out was the threads weren't concentric with the pilot bore. This is why a handful of engines would have multiple blow-outs, and why Ford recommended repairing all threads in a cylinder bank. By the end of 2003, Ford had replaced all the machines doing that step, and the problem went away for good.
After 2003, it's a total non-issue. I suppose it's possible for somebody to still over-torque a plug using air tools, but that can happen with any aluminum head.
Starting with 2005 3-valve V10, which the E-series never got, they gained a new problem with the new extended plugs getting stuck and breaking. This was mitigated with an updated single-piece extended spark plug, and an improved method for removing them from carbon-fouled engines. But again, this only affects F-series and F53 Class A chassis. - memtbExplorer
carringb wrote:
They aren't "notorious" for it. It's just the only problem they've really ever had. But it was very limited.
The initial '97-99 V10s only had 4 threads, so the plugs weren't hanging on tight to start with, but the bigger problem was over-torquing them during services.
2000-2003 had more threads, but it turned out the real root cause from some (again, only a small number) having plugs blown out was the threads weren't concentric with the pilot bore. This is why a handful of engines would have multiple blow-outs, and why Ford recommended repairing all threads in a cylinder bank. By the end of 2003, Ford had replaced all the machines doing that step, and the problem went away for good.
After 2003, it's a total non-issue. I suppose it's possible for somebody to still over-torque a plug using air tools, but that can happen with any aluminum head.
Starting with 2005 3-valve V10, which the E-series never got, they gained a new problem with the new extended plugs getting stuck and breaking. This was mitigated with an updated single-piece extended spark plug, and an improved method for removing them from carbon-fouled engines. But again, this only affects F-series and F53 Class A chassis.
Very good answer....much better than I could have put together! - pianotunaNomad IIISo,
If you need new spark plugs where would you take an E-450 from 2005? - pnicholsExplorer IIBy the way ... putting in spark plugs with an air tool seems ludicrous to me!!
Gentle-as-she-goes should be how to put in spark plugs. - tomgardner1ExplorerThanks carringb.
- LewMichele_PawsExplorerI have the 2006 V10 and love it. It is a work horse carrying around our heavy camper. No issues in 75000 miles.
- j-dExplorer IIThere's a great thread from Cloud Driver on changing plugs in E-Series V-10's. I had a reputable shop recommend removing the plugs with engine HOT. How we get the whole thing apart and 10 out, still hot, is unclear to me. What IS CLEAR is the Motorcraft packaging for new plugs is marked NOT to work hot. I like that much better.
Supposedly, the 2000-03's with potential plug problems could be ID'd by examining the heads and by VIN. A rebuilder could sort out which was which, at least that's what I found on another forum and became satisfied our 2002 has OK heads. - CloudDriverExplorerHere's the Spark Plug Post j-d is referring to. Refer to the linked thread for the text of the write up.
Other than the tight space to get at the plugs, not a difficult DIY job at all. - T18skyguyExplorerI have a 2003 V10 and it has the full compliment of threads on it. I changed the plugs last year. As I recall the toughest plugs to get to are the passenger side front two plugs. If you do the job always get new spark plug boots. I got mine at NAPA, and I used Motorcraft plugs. On the Ford forum they advised against Autolite or NGK. I used a very small amount of anti-seize and torqued them to the spec the advised.
- dicknellenExplorer IIPlus they are usually good to go for at least 100,000. miles.
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