I have a 2013 Roadtrek RS on the MB Sprinter with a 11,000 BTU Dometic Penquin air conditioner. The AC does not seem to be sufficent to cool the van. When it is over 90 out, I can only get the temp down to 81 with the unit on high. I have had it looked at once, and they found no problems. I have closed the shades, put a relector in the windshield, and it is still not cool enough. I am getting very frustrated, as it is just not comfortable in the RV when parked (Mercedes dash air is terrific). It also makes no difference if I am plugged in or running the AC on the generator. I wonder if anyone else has had a simialr expericne with their Roadtrek and did you solve the problem? Also, do others have no problems cooling their RVs? I am considering getting a second option from another repair place. Roadtrek said I can't put a bigger AC unit in becasue the 2.5 kW generator will not handle it. I would really apprecite any suggestions. I live in CA so if you are not on the coast in the Summer, it is likely over 90. Thanks for any replies and suggestions.

I have a conversion van. Little Colman heater/AC. Same problem when in direct sunlight. Last summer we just threw a plastic tarp with shiny aluminum side out over the area in direct sun. Outside temp 100, inside 92 dropped to 78. This year I bought little LG portable AC with hose pointed out window. Works with higher amp outlets, wouldnt try it on typical house circuit. Didnt break out generator for this. If you have plug in electrical and generator, this would work fine. I am kinda surprised brand new RT wouldnt cool better. Are you sure of your settings? Have you tested or had the AC tested by dealer?

Our solution to the problem you describe is a combination of several things.We have an '08 PW Lexor - so a Chevrolet chassis.First, if it's HOT outside, whenever I can, I park in the shade - even if it means a bit of a walk.Second, while our "dash" A/C will carry the load while we're driving - we do know that the rear is not as comfortable as the front - but, we travel in the two front seats.So, before we arrive at our destination, we pull over, start the genset and turn on the roof A/C - so now two A/Cs are running. It gives the roof A/C a bit of a "head start" on the "house".Third, and I'll admit that I "pinched" this idea from another forum poster - MyRoadtrek - though I made my own modifications to his suggestion.I went to Lowes (Home Depot didn't have it then, but does now) and bought a roll of Reflectix. It's a bubble wrap with an aluminized foil on both sides.Next, I cut out pieces for the inside of every window - every one.That wasn't enough when it got to be 95 plus or so. So, I cut out some more pieces to cover the outside of every window.The inside pieces simply "fit" in the opening and they do stay put. the outside ones are "temporarily" attached with some "blue painters tape", but we only use them when we're parked.When both are installed, it's cool as a cucumber inside.I think the secret is keeping the glass cool.When it's hot as the dickens and we're driving, we leave all the "inside" ones installed, removing only the driver and passenger windows and the windshield.Yes, it's a bit dark inside, but, it's comfy.When we're at a campsite, and it's hot as the dickens, I install only the ones on the "sun side", so we do have some light.DW thought I was nuts when I made 'em. Can't leave home without 'em now - if it's gonna be HOT.Sadly, MyRoadtrek's website is now history. He had some great photos of his solution. He lives in Tucson, AZ, so I know he understands HOT.Cheers.

I've wondered about buying some Reflectix, gluing it to a hinged Coroplast back, and cutting to shape some sun reflectors for the windshield and other windows. It can wedge into place, or perhaps pieces of Velcro could help in other spots.11kbtu should be doing a good job cooling the "B". I'd have the A/C checked out while it is still under warranty.

It depends on if you have been driving the van or if its been sitting. If driving, it gets very hot, it is a big metal can, so it takes quite awhile for the van to cool down. 10 degrees is probably about as good as you can do at that point. It will help if you can park in the shade, hose down underneath of the chassis, and open the hood. 15 to 20 degrees below the ambient temp is probably about the best you will get under ideal conditions.I couldn't even use my Rt here in AZ in the summer, had to seek cooler climates.I doubt there is anything wrong with the A/C.The Reflectix that was referenced does help.

This cooling problem in Bs doesn't sound promising. Do they have less insulation in the ceiling than TTs and TCs, then?

2013 Roadtrek RS air conditioning problem | Good Sam Community

35 Replies

rexlion
Explorer
Aug 15, 2013
I don't suppose any of the B mfrs. offer double pane windows, do they? Seems like a good idea.
Arizona_Kid
Explorer
Aug 14, 2013
Just a comment about Refletix, it certainly does help having it on the inside of the windows, but if you can attach it some way to the outside sun exposed windows, when camped, it will do a much better job. Better to stop the sunlight before it hits the windows, than after. Also, the white front windshield covers that wrap all the way around to cover the pass/driver sides work well. I think Adco makes them.
drsolo
Nomad
Aug 14, 2013
jrobe wrote:
How much difference does the color of the van make (white vs tan)? Once in awhile you will see a black Sprinter go by.

My van is white. It is the windows I think that it is the windows that really conduct the heat.
Arizona_Kid
Explorer
Aug 14, 2013
rexlion wrote:
It's all well and good to say that an AC unit will only lower the temp 20* or 25*. But let's say it's 105* in the unit, and it cools the air 20* to 85*. Now it's drawing 20* cooler air through it, and it should cool the inside even more. That other thread mentioned includes this quote from rvtrax.com:

The problem is at some point the outside air leaks into the Van, and an 11,000 BTU AC can only do so much. Thats why I made the statement that 20 degrees below outside ambient temp is about the best that can be expected. It really depends on how hot the air is that is leaking into the Van. Thats why opening the hood is a good idea, just remember to disconnect the hood light. Also, close all windows, vents, and any other place air will leak inside.
Class B's are probably the worst for leaking air, and there is only so much that can be done.
So what ever one can do to cool down the Van will allow the inside to cool faster, but only so much can be done to keep the outside air from getting in.
Chirpnchicks
Explorer
Aug 14, 2013
" Take it in to service where you bought it and have them check out the A/C unit. They can test the temp coming out, the fan force, etc."

Get a thermometer and check it yourself. Approx. 1/2 of the outside temp would be a good number. 40-45F.
Jay
Tanya6520
Explorer
Aug 14, 2013
We drive a white 2010 Sprinter. Several times while traveling Florida, we have had problems cooling the house down. Just this past week as a matter of fact. We use the cab A/C for awhile... as well as the ceiling A/C until the sun begins to set. Very uncomfortable until the sun goes down. These comments have all been thought provoking and I am especially interested in the tinting of windows.
crisset22
Explorer
Aug 14, 2013
I have the tan color and am really glad black was not available at the time I bought it.
gdoug83
Explorer
Aug 14, 2013
jrobe wrote:
How much difference does the color of the van make (white vs tan)? Once in awhile you will see a black Sprinter go by.

I've read not appreciably. It's the shortage of insulation and especially all the glass.
jrobe
Explorer
Aug 14, 2013
How much difference does the color of the van make (white vs tan)? Once in awhile you will see a black Sprinter go by.
mlts22
Explorer II
Aug 14, 2013
One of my projects is going to be to see about building an enclosed cargo trailer which also doubles as a solar trailer. All my boondocking stuff would stay in the trailer, so when doing normal trips, I do not have to devote precious "B" storage to stuff I only use when dry camping.

One idea I was thinking of is a pavilion tent (just tenting on the top, not an enclosed tent -- want the CO from the generator to disperse), around 25 feet long, 10-12 feet high, and a decent width. I'd set this up, then drive the "B" under it, then fasten a few rolls of Reflectix (all stored in the trailer) on top of the tent fabric. The sun would still hit the sides of the "B", but most of the van would be shaded, and the A/C would still have room for air circulation.

Of course, this is a lot of work when boondocking, but if dry camping in the same location for a few days, this might be the ticket. Just make sure you have enough air circulation for the outside A/C.

Forum Discussion

2013 Roadtrek RS air conditioning problem

35 Replies

About Motorhome Group

Related Content

Air conditioning problem

Troubleshoot fridge problem...

Atwood water heater problem

Norcold Model 611 Fridge problem

Air Conditioning Problems