2013 Roadtrek RS air conditioning problem

This cooling problem in Bs doesn't sound promising. Do they have less insulation in the ceiling than TTs and TCs, then?

It depends on if you have been driving the van or if its been sitting. If driving, it gets very hot, it is a big metal can, so it takes quite awhile for the van to cool down. 10 degrees is probably about as good as you can do at that point. It will help if you can park in the shade, hose down underneath of the chassis, and open the hood. 15 to 20 degrees below the ambient temp is probably about the best you will get under ideal conditions.
I couldn't even use my Rt here in AZ in the summer, had to seek cooler climates.
I doubt there is anything wrong with the A/C.
The Reflectix that was referenced does help.

I've wondered about buying some Reflectix, gluing it to a hinged Coroplast back, and cutting to shape some sun reflectors for the windshield and other windows. It can wedge into place, or perhaps pieces of Velcro could help in other spots.

11kbtu should be doing a good job cooling the "B". I'd have the A/C checked out while it is still under warranty.

Our solution to the problem you describe is a combination of several things.

We have an '08 PW Lexor - so a Chevrolet chassis.

First, if it's HOT outside, whenever I can, I park in the shade - even if it means a bit of a walk.

Second, while our "dash" A/C will carry the load while we're driving - we do know that the rear is not as comfortable as the front - but, we travel in the two front seats.

So, before we arrive at our destination, we pull over, start the genset and turn on the roof A/C - so now two A/Cs are running. It gives the roof A/C a bit of a "head start" on the "house".

Third, and I'll admit that I "pinched" this idea from another forum poster - MyRoadtrek - though I made my own modifications to his suggestion.

I went to Lowes (Home Depot didn't have it then, but does now) and bought a roll of Reflectix. It's a bubble wrap with an aluminized foil on both sides.

Next, I cut out pieces for the inside of every window - every one.

That wasn't enough when it got to be 95 plus or so. So, I cut out some more pieces to cover the outside of every window.

The inside pieces simply "fit" in the opening and they do stay put. the outside ones are "temporarily" attached with some "blue painters tape", but we only use them when we're parked.

When both are installed, it's cool as a cucumber inside.

I think the secret is keeping the glass cool.

When it's hot as the dickens and we're driving, we leave all the "inside" ones installed, removing only the driver and passenger windows and the windshield.

Yes, it's a bit dark inside, but, it's comfy.

When we're at a campsite, and it's hot as the dickens, I install only the ones on the "sun side", so we do have some light.

DW thought I was nuts when I made 'em. Can't leave home without 'em now - if it's gonna be HOT.

Sadly, MyRoadtrek's website is now history. He had some great photos of his solution. He lives in Tucson, AZ, so I know he understands HOT.

Cheers.

I have a conversion van. Little Colman heater/AC. Same problem when in direct sunlight. Last summer we just threw a plastic tarp with shiny aluminum side out over the area in direct sun. Outside temp 100, inside 92 dropped to 78. This year I bought little LG portable AC with hose pointed out window. Works with higher amp outlets, wouldnt try it on typical house circuit. Didnt break out generator for this. If you have plug in electrical and generator, this would work fine. I am kinda surprised brand new RT wouldnt cool better. Are you sure of your settings? Have you tested or had the AC tested by dealer?