50 AMP and plugging in at home

wa8yxm wrote:
...

Final note.. I know the TT-30 (30 amp) Outlet looks a lot like a 240 volt Big, Black, Large blades. MANY Electricians hired to install one will think that too.

And blow all your electronics

It is 120 volt. Says so right on the outlet.

Had a friend just get this done by a licensed electrician and is now having the RV, brand new, fixed since it was 240V and not 120V. Question the electrician as to what he is installling and then double check with your own VOM.

BB_TX wrote:
I can run one 15k A/C on a 20 amp outlet as long as I run nothing else. But I would not do it on a long extension cord. On 30 amp you can easily run a 15k A/C plus a few other lower current things. On 50 amp you can run all you want.

Make sure whoever installs the new outlet understand how it should be done.

http://www.myrv.us/electric/

My experience as well. A 20amp circuit and either no extension cord or a relatively short HEAVY extension cord. I have a 50' 10gauge extension that I have used with good success.

I did find that at times I wanted to run both a/c's and the refrigerator on electric while preparing for trips or working on projects so I finally installed a 50amp circuit.

Good point about making sure that the electrician understand that this is for an RV as there are different styles of 50 amp recepticles. I have gone out and replace a few of them...

dalenoel wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:
...

Final note.. I know the TT-30 (30 amp) Outlet looks a lot like a 240 volt Big, Black, Large blades. MANY Electricians hired to install one will think that too.

And blow all your electronics

It is 120 volt. Says so right on the outlet.

Had a friend just get this done by a licensed electrician and is now having the RV, brand new, fixed since it was 240V and not 120V. Question the electrician as to what he is installling and then double check with your own VOM.

X2

It's unfortunate IMHO that a unique 120V 30A RV plug that is almost identical to the common 3 wire 240V dryer plug was used for RVs.

Timothy2001 wrote:

mtofell1 wrote:
Getting a full electrical service at home is a really nice thing to do/have done. I love being able to use my RV to the fullest even in the driveway (hell, even the "doghouse" isn't so bad when DW sends me there :))

Next step is to be able to dump tanks at home. This was a real game changer for me. No more waiting in line heading out of the campground on Sunday. No more making the kids "hold it" until we get home.

So is this a 'hostile integration' into the plumbing that goes out to the street assuming city sewage and not septic?

Very appealing to me too.

Yep! That's it :)

Most municipalities frown/forbid this but it really has nothing to do with anything functional. It's just that they want to be sure you are paying them for the water you are dumping. Of course, they have no problem charging us to dispose of water we empty onto our lawns and plants all summer.... or, put into our RVs before leaving home and dump at the campground.

Anyway, gravity feed to a 3"+ cleanout is great but if you don't have that, a macerator and garden hose is amazing. Going to this setup is one of the best things I've ever done with respect to RVing.... no more "stinky slinky". Most times when I'm out I just attach the hose (without the macerator) to deal with gray water. I deal with the black once at home on my own time.

Timothy2001 wrote:

Executive wrote:
Whoa Kimo Sabbe! It's a bit more complicated than simply replacing a breaker and receptacle. That is unless your home fire insurance is paid in full, you no longer like your house, and the insurance company won't find you at fault for frying all the wiring inside your box. Generally, 20amp service, (Tee shaped receptacle) uses 12 ga wire, 15amp service (Double I shaped receptacle) uses 14 ga wire. 50amp service uses a minimum of 10ga wire, depending on the length of the run. Simply changing out the breaker and receptacle will allow you to power up you A/C units for a bit as your breaker will not trip. However, your house wiring will then become a substitute for your breaker. Once the wiring gets too hot, it will melt and burn through if you're lucky. If you're not so lucky, it'll simply start a fire and burn your house down. Hire a licensed electrician....Dennis

LOVE THIS! I learned a long time ago what I am capable of, what I am not capable of and what is just plain stupid to attempt and this falls under the later.

Anyone who was in the Navy remembers, "The Deadly Shipmate" and I prefer not to mess with electricity at sea or on land unless it's a simple light switch or house outlet.

Smart man!

Know what you know and know your limits. Someday I'll learn to do that..

Also, be cautious when it comes to taking electrical advice from an Internet forum.... I'm except Mike Holt's :)

CA Traveler wrote:
It's unfortunate IMHO that a unique 120V 30A RV plug that is almost identical to the common 3 wire 240V dryer plug was used for RVs.

NEMA resisted recognizing the 30-TT for a long time and I assume partially for this reason of similarity. Besides NEMA already had a 5-30 connector that is not confusing.



Trouble is the 30-TT is so widely used for a loooong time.

I thought I was getting by with my 20amp garage plug running one A/C. However, with the recent installation of an EMS, it is shutting me down due to low voltage that I wasn't aware of. So, be careful, just because its running doesn't mean it isn't harmful. Fingers crossed I didn't do significant damage.

Dennis,
Spot on. In my 34 year career as a firefighter I ran two house fires with RV's plugged into undersized wiring. Burnt up the RV and the house in both cases

Time Roll did you read the face of that outlet you posted
30 amps 125 Volts.

As I said up thread. Many electricians do not read.

Advise your electrician you simply want a standard 50A range outlet installed. Suggest that you request he install the ground at the top of the outlet so your RV power cord hangs freely. I used 6 ga wire for a run of about 15 feet.