89 Fleetwood Southwind Radiator Removal

One thing I have learned in this place is that everybody is in denial about their radiators. At this age get it recored. It will be one thing or another with it. If your going to go through the effort of pulling it, recore it. I am assuming it's a GM With the GM temp gauge the halfway point is about 220-230 degrees. I have a second gauge that when the engine is at 180 degrees the GM gauge is about 1/4 of the way up. My radiator had to come out of the front. I was able to swing the A/C core up and out of the way and bungeed it to the wipers. ( didn't want to lose the r-12 )
Here is an explanation on everything that had to come out on mine. I pulled mine last spring. I took my time because my A/C charge is as good as gold. (R-12) By time I removed the grill,oil cooler,trans cooler,tied up the A/C coil disconnected the wiring harness the electric fans, bumper some of the fiber glass and then the bracketing holding the Radiator it took 7-8 hours. About 6 to put it back in. Getting the radiator recored was the best money I have spent on this so far Edit: When I took the radiator in, the guy showed me that the fins were pulling from the tubes and that the tubes were 3/8" he said it looked like they took an automotive radiator and sized it up to fit a motor home, it was a 4 core radiator. When he was done it was still a 4 core but it had 5/8" cores and he showed me the old core, they were plugged pretty good. He asked me what kind of fluid I had been using and told him Prest... he replied "I thought so, seems most of the recores he runs into use the same stuff. He said run anything in it but that stuff and I would be good to go. I now run at 180 degrees and never hear the declutching fan kick in except on decelaration

I agree with Brian, he gave you good advice and a good description of what has to typically come off. I did the same thing to my 87 Itasca a few years ago and it was the best money I spent on it. It didn't overheat with the old core either but it leaked and the shop said it was too rotten to repair. I did have to unhook my AC lines so I converted it to R134. Good luck with your project!

How to get the radiator out is going to be very dependent on how the coach builder built around the standard GM frame. Most likely out the front, or possibly twisted sideways and down between the frame. Don't bother with a repair, get it re-cored as stated above. It is unlikely you will be able to have a full replacement, as finding one with the trans cooling lines on the correct side, along with the fill and drain, inlet/outlet in the correct locations is often a trick. Re-cored is the most practical solution. Its one of those things you just don't want to worry about when you are far from home. I would also go through and replace all the rubber - radiator hoses, belts, heater hoses, tires depending on brand and age. Also not bad to travel with a full tank of water, and carry fittings that will adapt your sink faucet to the hose. I've cut off lines, spliced stuff back together, and the refilled the radiator, while sitting on the side of the freeway. Not a pleasant experience, but we got back on the road under our own power.

Thanks guys! Yes, it is a GM P30 Chassis with a 454 4BBL. That's interesting about the temp gauge. I'll have to install a secondary gauge too now.

I had a 1989 27' Southwind. I put a mechanical temp gage on it and a switch so I could manually turn on the radiator fans.
I wanted the fan switch so I could do a faster cool down when getting off the interstate before I shut down for gas or food.
Do a permanant repair, you don't want to have to repair it on the road.

. . .IF you plan on keeping the RV, I would HIGHLY!! recommend changing the radiator / heater hoses ( & fuel hose to prevent possible engine compartment fire - COMMOM PROBLEM in older RV's), T-Stat & water pump! Why??? Because it is easy to do while radiator is out ( and if those parts have not been changed, they are due ) & Very difficult when radiator is in place. I've done 50+ like this in my lifetime & only had 1 person fail to see the logic. . .New is not available for this, only a new core at a GOOD radiator shop hopefully. . .

I would change the radiator. You got such a good deal and it drove all that way... It's worth it.

You should still be able to buy a new radiator. It is a very popular Chevy truck chassis.

Update: I removed the radiator two days ago. It came up and out of the front of the engine compartment. I shopped and compared getting a recore vs. New. Found that new was not available. The best local recore price I could get was $575 for a 4 row, with 1/2" wide rows which is an upgrade from the original 4 row 1/4" row unit. I did not have to disconnect the A/C lines. I spent yesterday replacing the water pump, fan clutch, all belts, thermostat and hoses, and flushing the engine block for about $200 in parts plus $150 for two days of help from my hard working cousin.
The radiator should be ready Friday from Broadway Radiator in Hesperia, CA who have a flawless reputation and have done 1 previous recore for me. The recored radiator should go in next week.