A/C will not get cold and compressor running.

The only correct way to diagnose an AC system is to throw some gauges on it. R12 or 134a ?

Ivylog wrote:
OP, follow Doug's advice even putting a manual shut off valve in if the heater is getting water. If stopping the hot water does not help then it is low on Freon. I'd start by adding 1/2 lb since it has enough to make the compressor run. I adjust how much to put in by using a IR temp gun on the condenser coils. You want 90% of the coils hotter than the last couple... usually at the bottom of the condenser.

Thanks for the help Al.

AL49er wrote:
Hi, I have a 2004 Kuntry Star and no cold air comming from the A/C
If there is a leak, where would it most likely be? Compressor runs good. Thanks Alby. I M sorey it is the DASH AIR.

Question for you, Is there only hot air blowing regardless of settings? If so, I had an electronic control valve that stopped working. It controlled the flow through the heater coils and was stuck in one position. All I could get is hot air out of the dash vents regardless of the A/C being on. You should be able to look in the front of the RV and see some hoses going to a control valve. Here's a picture of it and diagram

http://www.thermotion.com/pdf/4_Port_Data_Sheet.pdf

OP, follow Doug's advice even putting a manual shut off valve in if the heater is getting water. If stopping the hot water does not help then it is low on Freon. I'd start by adding 1/2 lb since it has enough to make the compressor run. I adjust how much to put in by using a IR temp gun on the condenser coils. You want 90% of the coils hotter than the last couple... usually at the bottom of the condenser.

What do you think this means: * This post was edited 03/27/14 10:46pm by AL49er * That was 20 minutes AFTER I posted and why did he say ". I M sorey it is the DASH AIR."

Cuffs: please REREAD ALL of the OP's post and I like your posts under Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs. :W I'm afraid this confirms one of my favorite motto's: "No one sees you when you are COOL." :B

Ivy, please REREAD the OP question.

The FIRST thing you do, when the Compressor runs and no cold air on a Evans Tempcon system, is clamp off the 2 Hot water input rubber lines to the heater core at the core area. THEN check the temp. If NOT at 60 or below output, then the heater control valve is probably bad (seeping hot water). Very common problem on 1998 to current Evans Tempcon hot water valves. The compressor will still run if low on 134a coolant and will not cool very well. BUT, you take the hot water lines out of the loop FIRST. Then do your AC diagnosis. Doug

Evans Tempcon has a excellent technical support area. To find a leak, they have to put dye into the system, which dyes the area when the leak is located. I my opinion, something like this is best left to those with more knowledge than me!

Hi,

My friend had a leak in his capillary tube that leads from the condenser to the indoor coil. I was able to repair it, install a freon valve, evacuate the system, and recharge with R-22. It took about 6 hours, so at $75 per hour for a good refrigeration mechanic, it will be expensive.

Lately, I repaired two air conditioners and a refrigerator with leaking freon coils. Yes it took about 6 hours to complete the repairs, parts cost varies from $250 to $450 for each of those repairs, in addition to labor and freon is now running about $28 per pound.

Fred.

Dash or roof air? I'll assume roof so how do you know the compressor is running? Can you monitor amps some how?