Anchoring a Residential Fridge

We used 4 lag bolts through the bottom to the subfloor, but even that is, IMO, an accident looking for a place to happen. So, we also added 2 straps from side to side that hold it firmly in place and keep the doors closed while traveling. Very easy to use and when we get to our destination, just tuck them along the side of the fridge and most folks will never notice them.

My friends used rachet straps and eyebolts thru the floor. Where there wasn't room to operate the rachet mechanism, they used a chain (padded the chain with non-slip drawer liner & protected the corners of the appliance box with "L" shaped metal pieces) that looped from an eye bolt thru the floor on one side to an eye bolt thru the floor on the other side. They tightened up the chain from under the floor. They did this a week later to take into account the chain stretching. The appliances haven't moved at all. Pretty good considering they promptly put the bus into an abandoned store parking lot that had a good 12" drop. Downside to the setup they used was that it takes two people (one inside, one outside) to tighten up the tie downs. I was happy to help. Hardest thing was getting back up off the floor! :D

if you have access under where the heater is you can drill and replace the feet with nuts and bolts then in the back use a couple conduit clamps around the back frame.to holdthe door closedi made a swing arm on the non hing front foot and a l bracket i slide in the top use a bungie chord

Use some metal straps, attach them on the back of the fridge and screw them into the floor from the back in the places you can reach via the exterior. If you don't have an exterior access point then build up wood retention area in the front and top to keep it from falling forward on turns. Obviously secure in other places where possible.

I posted some pics on my blog...see below....there are several ways to do it....

1. Level the fridge using the levelers. Once leveled, remove the levelers and their brackets. I used the brackets as a guide and made longer "L" brackets and drilled them the same as the leveler brackets. I then reversed the brackets and installed them in the same holes. Secured the reversed "L" brackets using lag bolts and I was done. The rear of the Samsung can be accessed through the outside panel and I ran a 3" lag through the rear plate on the fridge through the plywood base....here's another thought...

2. Use a "U" channel secured to the plywood base. Bring the U channel even with the front of the fridge. Leaving the leveler brackets in place, remove the levelers and secure the fridge to the U channel with bolts where the levelers were.

Either way will work. I haven't had a problem with the fridge doors opening but I'm pretty conservative with my driving. If I see a problem, I'll use a bungee through the two top doors and combine it with another through the freezer door....

If you need closeups of how I did it, let me know and I'll shoot a couple pics and post em here......Dennis

Helped a fellow volunteer replace his last winter. He secured the residential with strap metal secured to fridge with existing screws and then wood screws to the floor through the existing air vent, one on each side then a block in the front of wheels in front. His was a tight fit top to bottom so rolling in or out was the only concern.

Thanks everyone for the help and advice. I'm cutting/pasting everyone's ideas into a Word document, to save them for when I start.

Executive wrote:
I posted some pics on my blog...see below....there are several ways to do it....

If you need closeups of how I did it, let me know and I'll shoot a couple pics and post em here......Dennis

Dennis, I couldn't find the photos in your blog. Some closeups would help tremendously!

Thanks!

Craig

SAMSUNG RF197 DISCONTINUED

I called around today to check on pricing of the RF197 and was stunned to find that Samsung has discontinued this model. It has been replaced with the Samsung RF217. While the RF217 is the same height and width as the RF197, it is 2 inches deeper, meaning it will stick out of an existing fridge cutout that much more. The newer model is 2 cubic feet larger so it will have more room, but if depth is a concern this may make the Samsung no longer viable for some RV retrofits.

I was able to find a local appliance store that still had the 197 in stock, but I almost waited too long. If you have been thinking of doing the same retrofit, I suggest you don’t wait any longer.

Here is a link to the specs of the RF217.

Craig

Here is the clicky for my blog:

Samsung Install

Here are some close ups...hope this helps....Dennis


This is one of the leveling legs. I used these legs to level the fridge, shimmed up the wheels, then removed them. The "L" faces forward.


I purchased a Simpson Strong Tie from Home Depot. Bent them accordingly, drilled them using the above leveler as a template and installed it backwards.


I then ran a bolt through the plywood base and secured it with a washer and lock nut.


Probably overkill but for added security, I used a 3" 1/4" lag bolt and washer thru the rear panel and into the plywood base.


Finally, three bungee cords ensure the doors will not open while traveling.

That helps me a great deal. Thanks Dennis!

Craig