Anyone Add A 3rd 12V Socket In Their Ford Dash Here?

I find the Scanguage very useful. I have average MPG, Boost, Temp and LOD displayed on mine. I use the LOD (engine load calculation) to get a head of downshift points when climbing. I then change down a gear before the transmission is under full engine power and max boost. Just trying to go easy on the equipment. It displays fault codes too!

pnichols wrote:
Ron, I'm curious. What parameter reading from your Scanguage II do you pay most attention to?

I recently had to replace my 2005 E450 V10's Torqshift transmission after only about 51K miles on our Class C. Several mechanics said that this particular transmission failing this soon was HIGHLY UNUSUAL and, upon tear-down analysis, found that several components inside the original transmission were shot.

I wonder if pulling long uphill grades at 55-60 MPH, at 4000-4500 RPM, in the mountains, in the summer, with our only 11,800 lb. motorhome could have caused my early transmission failure? I had no way of monitoring tranmission temperatures while doing this. The transmission fluid in the failed transmission was normal color and at normal level before the transmission shop replaced it with a 3 year unlimited mileage remanufactured transmission.

By the way, my BIL's 2015 loaded pickup truck includes readouts on the dash of all kinds of vehicle performance parameters. I wonder if this is going to become common in new vehicles such that Scanguages will eventually no longer be required in newer RVs?

Phil, this is why I preach the gospel of "Scan Gauge" so often. Being able to monitor your trans fluid temps is essential. You would be amazed what even a slight grade over a few miles will do to your trans temps if you are not in Tow Haul (or have OD locked out on the older models).

I'm not saying you cooked your trans but I am sure there have been times when it was way hotter than it needed/had to be simply because you were not aware the temps had risen so much. A total failure at just 51,000 miles is strange to say the least. I think the Scan Gauge is up to about $150 on Amazon and would, IMHO, be money well spent.

I always monitor trans fluid and coolant temps along with average and real time mpg on our Scan Gauge. There are a couple of dozen other displays available but those are the four that give me the best info. In addition to SC's many other attributes don't forget they are a built in code reader.

Works for me.

:C

pnichols wrote:
Ron, I'm curious. What parameter reading from your Scanguage II do you pay most attention to?

We all can display 4 units of data. For me I like to monitor

- speed
- real time fuel economy
- average fuel economy
- TPS (throttle position sensor)

The TPS is just a number, but I quickly learned how to apply that number to how far down I am pressing down the gas pedal.

I use the ScanGauge-II solely to assist me with my driving for best fuel economy.

I did read your thread a month or two ago over your failed transmission. All I can say is "Yikes". I hope that is the exception rather than the rule.

pnichols wrote:


By the way, my BIL's 2015 loaded pickup truck includes readouts on the dash of all kinds of vehicle performance parameters. I wonder if this is going to become common in new vehicles such that Scanguages will eventually no longer be required in newer RVs?

One thing all those gauges do not give you is Fault Code reading. Along with the ability to reset them. Scangauge II gives you that. Another item is throttle position and load. This is good information to tell when transmission is going to downshift. I believe its better to down shift before to much speed is lost going up a hill. Accelerating going up a hill waste fuel and puts a heavier load on engine and transmission.

Ron, I'm curious. What parameter reading from your Scanguage II do you pay most attention to?

I recently had to replace my 2005 E450 V10's Torqshift transmission after only about 51K miles on our Class C. Several mechanics said that this particular transmission failing this soon was HIGHLY UNUSUAL and, upon tear-down analysis, found that several components inside the original transmission were shot.

I wonder if pulling long uphill grades at 55-60 MPH, at 4000-4500 RPM, in the mountains, in the summer, with our only 11,800 lb. motorhome could have caused my early transmission failure? I had no way of monitoring tranmission temperatures while doing this. The transmission fluid in the failed transmission was normal color and at normal level before the transmission shop replaced it with a 3 year unlimited mileage remanufactured transmission.

By the way, my BIL's 2015 loaded pickup truck includes readouts on the dash of all kinds of vehicle performance parameters. I wonder if this is going to become common in new vehicles such that Scanguages will eventually no longer be required in newer RVs?

ronfisherman wrote:
Nice install Ron. Wish I could keep my dash as clean. GPS, TPMS monitor, Scanquage II, 2 iPhones, iPOD and clock, inside/outside temperature, voltage monitor. I did cleanup one cable by installing a Bluetooth compatible radio. But it added another cable for the remote mic. :R

You got a lot going on there.

As for our Scanguage-II, I mounted it on top of our back-up camera with wires out of sight.

Nice install Ron. Wish I could keep my dash as clean. GPS, TPMS monitor, Scanquage II, 2 iPhones, iPOD and clock, inside/outside temperature, voltage monitor. I did cleanup one cable by installing a Bluetooth compatible radio. But it added another cable for the remote mic. :R

I added two outlets in the center console for the following reasons.

- move all connections away from the driver
- clean up the center console of all power cords
- provide easy access to outlets for the passenger

If I use any kind of "one to three" adapter in either of the two Ford-provided 12V outlets, that will not address my most critical complaint. I want "ZERO" power cords by the gear shift lever. Having just one cord in the area is one too many.

If I hard-wired a three outlet adapter having a long cord, that may be an acceptable alternative to what I had accomplished as long as my three primary goals were still met. I did consider a 3-bank remote-mount 12V pod but favored this to achieve a clean OEM installation.

Amazon sells them. Search "12V RV power outlet". $8.79 converts one outlet to three.

pnichols wrote:

Ron,

You've sure gotten a lot of response on this project!

I solved the problem long ago very simply: I just bought a 12V single-to-dual pigtail at a truck-stop or auto parts store (can't remember which). The male end I plug into the lower dash female receptacle shown in your photo (my 2005 dash is the same as yours). A couple of pigtails about 8-10 inches long dangle down from this male receptacle with a female 12V receptacle on each - hence giving me two 12V female receptacles from the the single male receptacle in the dash. This arrangement of two pigtails dangling down laying flat against the dash does not interfer with my shift lever, while at the same time permitting two 12V sources to be available for use from the single dash 12V receptacle.

P.S. Into the upper dash 12V female receptacle I plug a jointed 12V digital meter with a readout window head that can be bent down 90 degrees after plugging it's male receptacle into the upper dash 12V female receptacle. Tilting it's head down 90 degrees makes it lay flat against the dash (with it's readout facing right at me) so it does not interfer with the shift lever either - just as the pigtail extension in the lower 12V dash receptacle doesn't interfer with the shift lever. I use this 12V digital readout to provide me with a constant monitor of how much voltage the alternator is presenting both to the chassis systems - and to the coach systems via the chassis/coach alternator connection solenoid. Also Velcro'd onto the dash I have another voltmeter that shows how much DC voltage is actually on the coach systems. Comparing these two DC voltages whenever the engine is running tells me a lot about how effectively the coach/alternator connection solenoid is transferring current from the alternator to the coach batteries as the solenoid's contact surface gradually becomes corroded over time - which affects how well (amount of contact resistance due to corrosion) the alternator can deliver current to the coach batteries to keep them topped up whenever traveling or providing quick boost charges via idling the V10 when parked in camp. (I also have an ammeter Velcro'd onto the dash showing me how much current is either entering or leaving the coach batteries at all times.)

Didn't happen without pictures,:W