Automatic or manual leveling kits

Cider wrote:
As I don't want to add weight or spend another $3K + for auto leveling, we use Lynx block levelers. Normally, one set solves the problem. but found that in Yellowstone this past year, site was so uneven that we had to buy a second set. SO, just keep two sets in the rig - 2400R MBS Sprinter

I agree.

We were invited by family to share a camp site in Glacier NP west side that was ridiculously sloped. 6" of Lynx levelers wasn't even close. There is no way I would have trusted auto-levelers for fear they would bend or fold or something else gone terribly wrong.

2 full sets and one partial set of Lynx levelers & top caps, and also those wheel chocks work well for us in the crazy places we sometimes find ourselves in. Our 3 blue zippered storage bags full plus the box for wheel chocks can't be weighing more than 15 pounds. And they don't take up all that much space either.

As I don't want to add weight or spend another $3K + for auto leveling, we use Lynx block levelers. Normally, one set solves the problem. but found that in Yellowstone this past year, site was so uneven that we had to buy a second set. SO, just keep two sets in the rig - 2400R MBS Sprinter

The frame on solid jack stands should be more stable than on a suspension with heavy duty stabilizer bars. But sensitive side-to-side movement is reduced with HD bars so much that stabilizer jacks won't be worth fussing with. Then adding the huge benefit with handling the rig when driving it, you can't go wrong with HD stabilizer bars.

Our 31-ft Class C/E-450 became more stable with front and rear Hellwig Sway Bars, than it was on the HWH Kick Down Jacks and OEM front and rear sway bars that are standard on E-450.

I don't see how that could possibly be true. Sitting on a suspension, the frame is going to float on the suspension. No matter how rigid your suspension is, as long as it has shocks and springs it's going to give - that is what suspension does.

Sitting on jacks, the frame isn't going anywhere.

Our 31-ft Class C/E-450 became more stable with front and rear Hellwig Sway Bars, than it was on the HWH Kick Down Jacks and OEM front and rear sway bars that are standard on E-450.
C's are different from A's in that they have less advantageous mounting points. This tends to cause:

1. Front Jacks too far toward the Rear
2. Rear Jacks too far Forward
3. Insufficient Side to Side Spacing of Front and Rear Jacks due to the Narrow Chassis

Reading through the replies, some of you mentioned that your rig is unstable when parked. If your rig moves badly when someone walks around inside or rolls over in bed, it must also be unstable when driving. You should benefit in multiple ways with heavy duty front and rear stabilizer bars, something to think about.

Someone up higher mentioned having little bubble levels. I stuck on little bubble levels on our rig two near the driver for front/rear and left/right leveling to help maneuver the rig on an uneven parking pad. It is remarkable how often I can level our 24' rig by placing a front tire down into a dip or high up on a mound.

I also adhered Hoppy brand levels on each side of the rig by the rear axle, and one in the back dead center. They help a lot to determine how many Lynx blocks to stack. One mark on the level equates to one block. They help to ease the hassle of leveling.

This is a Hoppy brand level. Note the tick marks. One tick mark equals one inch.


One Lynx block is one inch tall. They are light weight and store compactly and cleanly. I also bought wheel chocks and top caps. Everything works well together.

Our 1990 Winnebago Warrior had HWH flip-down jacks installed by the original owner shortly after he bought the rig.

Ours have 4 independent levers for each jack. Never thought about the frame wracking - good point to consider!

We have never had any problems with our jacks deploying or retracting, and the system is nearly 30 years old.

Jacks are good for leveling, but what I find them more important for is stability. Without the jacks, every time someone rolls over in bed the entire RV rocks and floats on the suspension, shaking everyone else in their beds.

With jacks, the house becomes rock solid.

Steve

Ours is slightly shorter than yours and we seldom need to use levelers. When we do I use 2x8's to drive up on. I have a N/S level by the drivers left door and an E/W level mounted on the dash. That way I can maneuver the vehicle to a level spot while sitting in the seat.
BTW, North is 12 O'clock/straight ahead/front of vehicle.
Self levelers are a waste of money on a short RV IMO.
Marvin

as noted by some the 'levelers' really are hit and miss IMO. I have some on the Aspect and they do not seem to level, they seem to raise one end and then thats it. I use them manually. Also carry 2x10 for the tires to sit on or to put down for the pads since most places are on dirt and they can sink in. My BIL (class A 35 ft) also used plywood pads for his set up under the jacks. Guy I know has a 24ft thor and he was told NOT to install jacks for whatever reason. If its stability you want after set up I told him to get some of the triangular trailer levelers to take rock and roll out. Cheaper and simple to use.

All great advice. Our 28QB didn't have levelers. I asked the dealer to install them before we picked it up... his response "use it for a few months and then ask me". We did and, we haven't asked him again! We use commercial camp grounds and have discovered that most are level and those that aren't could easily be "fixed" using a yellow plastic ramp. (can't think of the brand!)

Good luck,
Gary