B+ motorhomes

Looking at purchasing a 252DS trail-lite or a 251 model. Can only get a Ford chassis in Canada. GM will not warranty a chassis that crosses the border. We have read of problems with slideouts. Has anyone experienced this model??

Sorry CharlesOK, I was misremembering from last year when I first looked into this issue - I saw lots of valves under the tight-space-under-cabinet and was totally confused.

I do remember seeing a pull ring under the cabinet close by the WH (and one under the dinette by the FW) which I think are the water line drains. I guess the pull ring drain near the water heater cannot drain the WH, only local water pipes, right?

As I recall, I was put off of ever unscrewing the WH plug outside the RV because I thought all 6 gallons would end up on the RV floor and hit the electrical stuff nearby. Does the WH drain go out into the air and miss any RV hardware?

It's done, thank goodness.....did it the Gene way, no T-connector, just pried off the hose to water tank and let the pump pump away....1.5 gallons, all the traps too. Did use air compressor from our son (grandpa's gift) at 40 psi first as our 110 compressor hose had a hole!!!! DH said not enough space to work and place the winterizing kit....CharlesOK probably knows as the pump is between the back wall and tank, after having to take linen off bed, mattress (tight fit, nasty words!!) off and then plywood (8 screws). Did find the low drain plugs just where CharlesOK said, so they've been open for the whole ordeal. Gotta go South next year, too much trouble to stay in Washington!!! Again Thank you ALL. :)

By the way, Trail-lite recommends running the pump until it is dry. I have run these small SUREFLO pumps dry many times and have never had a problem with any of them ever picking up a prime again. They are all run-dry capable and self-priming.

karebear to use the small tire inflater, you will need a screwin fitting available at any camping store. usually made of nylon, it has a standard hose screw-in fitting on one side and a bicycle threaded valve on the otherside. It is also made by CAMCO and is really a screw-in one way valve. when all faucets and drains are closed and the pump starts adding air to the system, you can then open the faucets one at a time untill only air comes out. I also open the drain valves one at a time untill all I get is air from anywhere. I usually go back around to each faucet or drain several times, but then I am retired and goofing around with my motorhome is really a hobby for me.

You guys are SUPER, helpful beyond my expectations, I thank each and every one of you. Yes, I bought the Camco/RV kit with the brass T, clear hose, tape and conbector, and will now present dh with your answers...the piano hinge is a GREAT idea as getting into that space was nearly his undoing, as Charles OK would know!!! Never thought to use the small tire inflator, tried the leaf blower that Gene did and got some water out, will try your other suggestions. Karebear.

Burl, congratulations on your second hip. Just keep plugging along and you will make it, I am sure.

Now on the Water Heater, are you sure you don't have a WH bypass. Your unit is a 05 and I was under the impression, (May be wrong) that bypass was standard. Anyway, if you want to fill with antifreeze, which is certainly an acceptable option, it is still necessary to pull the plug on the back of the Water Heater and drain the 6 gallons of water first, before you try to refill with antifreeze. Draining the lines and the fresh water tank should be done as well, to ensure you don't dilute the antifreeze with trapped water.

Just for the record, for those who may not have looked, what I call a WH bypass is a set of three valves directly on the back of the Water Heater. The middle valve handle should be in-line with the line and the other two turned across/against the line of flow of the water, to be in bypass mode. Easier to understand when seen, as opposed to reading about. When the handles on each valve are in line with the water line, water can flow through the line. The bypass allows you to cut off the flow to and from the water tank. I hope this helps anyone who is trying to winterize for the first time. All my earliest units did not have a bypass kit installed and Trail-lites come with it standard now. Just another example of the "little things" that come standard on our units.

PS: During the Summer the middle valve should be closed so water HAS to flow into the water heater tank around the heater tube and back out to the faucets. Hope that was clear.

Hello all

Second (and final by my count) hip successfully installed 5 days back. I just successfully began walking w/ just a cane, though I will need my walker for longer movements (several minutes or so) for another week or so. In 4 weeks I hope to walk w/o pain and w/ a real gait for the first time in my 51 tears. Yotal time for both installations and expected near full recovery - 12 weeks.

I do not have a water heater bypass and would find it difficult to install in the tight below-cabinet-space and to get at the FW tank under the dinette.

If FW tank flushing is a good idea for springtime anyway, why not just invest in 4 to 6 gallons of antifreeze ($3.60/gal at campingworld - must be less at walmart) and pour pink stuff and a gallon or 2 extra added water into FW filler to fill water heater's 6 gallons plus a bit more for the pipes and bottom of FW tank? Annual cost is not that bad, $25 bucks.

No getting under cabinets, just pour in and drain out and flush w/ bleach and pure water again.

Am I missing something, cause I would consider $25 a year cheap and keep things simple in the process. When I work on water things, I create leaks.

Sent the following in a PM -

Since your unit is a different model than mine, don't quite know how close they compare. My cover over the fresh water tank is under the dinette closest to the passenger. My plywood is not screwed down, merely lays in place and has a finger hole to pick it up with. Between the frosty looking rectangular tank and the wall is mounted the pump and the inlet/outlet white tubing. There is also a tank drain that penetrates the floor that you must unscrew the shutoff valve to drain the tank. I used a leaf blower and blew air into the tank to accelerate the draining and get the last bit of water out. I believe the kit they talk about, you cut the tubing from the tank to the pump and install a "T" fitting with a directional valve. I merely loosened the clamp on the tubing that connects to the fitting on the tank, then unscrewed the fitting from the tank. This is the suction of the pump - stuck that into the pink jug and turned on the pump. Then I turned on each faucet until solid pink flowed (including the flush toilet). Then I reconnected - not much of a problem once a year. Hope someone else writes to give you another procedure.

First things first. While you have the bedboard off, cut the last foot or so off, install a piano hinge and then install a brace below the unsupported edge. Then when you put the whole thing back, you will have a flip-up door for access to the pump. I agree, the original set-up is not, shall we say optimal for maintenance. If you have your owners manual, R-Vision say you only need to gravity drain and air out the system. I blow out the lines with a small plastic fitting screwed into the city water outlet. After draining, close the drains and faucets and then while pressurised with air, open one faucet or drain at a time till no more water comes out. Don't forget the water valve on the toilet and don't use high pressure. I use a small Black and Decker 110 Volt airpump, which is not capable of pumping much air, so I just hook it up and leave it on while I open the faucets and valves one at a time. I never have more than about 30 to 40 psi in the system, but it is enough to get the water out. I did that last year and added Pink Stuff to all my drains and to the holding tanks after draining the system. Don't forget to bypass the water heater and drain it as well, you will need to pull the drain plug from the outside for the water heater, it looks like it is a white plastic plug screwed into the lower side of the WH under the outside WH door area. While draining the lines, it is also good to open each faucet and allow air into the system through them which lets the water out through the low points. In my 251, there is a Main water tank drain in the passenger side rear compartment up against the rear wall. There are two more lowpoint drains inside the cupboards behind the large pots and pans drawer. Mine have pull rings on them and are easy to pull with a finger, just remember to close them before you use the system next. Of cours, we have fairly mild winters here and I am not afraid of a few drops of water which may be left in the lines. The antifreeze is good for the drains so the drain plumbing is not damaged, and I keep the rest of the gallon over the winter in the coach, so I can add some to the toilet if I need to flush it while I am there. Old men pee a lot, and it is handy to be able to use the Loo when I run the generator each month.