Battery Drain - Usual Suspects

Thanks to all for the responses. I'll be getting a battery tender to be used in place of my old charger. Any preferences among those of you who use plug in tenders?

Jim

That is normal in all of the newer vehicles. I had a 2011 Ford F350 and my battery was down in 4 weeks. I talked to the shop and they told me about the longest that it would last without either running it or put a charger on it is 3 weeks. It is all of the parasite loads on it even with the key off.

On my View I keep a battery tender hooked up to the chassis battery all the time. I have the MH plugged in all the time so it is no problem to have the battery tender hooked up and powered from an ac outlet in the camper.

I got a 5 amp solar charger from harbor freight for ours. They also have them at the auto stores like oriellys or autozone. Keeps engine battery up to snuff. I place it in front of the sun guard for the windshield, wired in direct. It has a quick disconnect that enables me to take out for travel. works well and does not need ac to te coach unless you want to plug in the house for potential use.

Just make sure that the battery is well charged prior to parking and hooking up.

I keep a battery tender connected to my chassis battery when I'm home. I'm still running the original battery that was delivered by the factory in 2003.

Tonijim wrote:
We have a new-to-us 2010 Four Winds Freedom Elite 31r Just replaced the two 12v coach batteries (probably OEM). The Bosch engine battery was new in 4/13. It will not hold a charge if allowed to sit 4 weeks or so with all systems shut down. It will accept a charge and run fine while on the road or on short stays.

Question - are there usual suspects in battery rundown in a shut down storage situation?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Jim

you could test chassis batt health by disconnecting it , measure ita voltage, trickle it to full charge (note if this appears to happen rather quickly). read around 12.8v or so, then let batt sit a day or three. if it drops below 12.6v uncabled, it may have a bad cell.

if the above occurs, your battery entangler solenoid may be root of all the battery issues you posted.

On my, new to me, 2010 chassis the dash radio really never shuts off. At some point this summer I plan to take the radio out of the dash and put a switch on the 12V lead to the radio. I think it is a Jensen radio.

The DW's Ford Escape does the same thing - goes dead in three weeks. Took it back to the dealer. They said, Oh yeah, that's the way it is due to all of the electronics on new vehicles, and wouldn't look at it any further.

Now I unhook the battery or put a battery minder it whenever we're going to be gone longer than two weeks.

Bill

Clore Automotive sent me this on Parasitic Loads It may be helpful to you.

You can sign up for the free news letter. I get one monthly and a reminder to charge my Jump N Carry. It is always with me.

HOUSE Loads:
CO2 Detector
LP Detector (usually have a switch)
Clock Radio
Outside Entertainment Center
Antenna Amp (if left on)
Storage bat lights with out of adjustment switches, or simply left on
Some Fantastic Fans
Some refrigerators

Chassis Loads:
Engine Computer
Transmission Computer (some)