Battery Storage

actually batteries will self discharge faster in Florida than in the great frozen north. Do use the disconnect switches.

Winter in central Florida is ideal for a solar trickle charger system. Works great for me in SoCal.

mikemc53 wrote:
I will be able to get to it every couple of weeks to run it and keep the chassis batteries going but not sure of what is best for the house batteries?

Once a month is plenty. Be sure to run it long enough to get the temp gauge up to where it normally runs.

And I think you will find that the house batteries charge when the engine runs too.

IF....you have access to shore power, it is best to get a couple of smart battery maintainers (tenders) NOT TRICKLE CHARGERS, hook one to each battery and leave it alone. Yes, do NOT start it; not necessary.

Letting your built-in charger/converter handle the task long term is not a good idea in general because many will "float" the batteries too high for long term storage.

If no shore power turn off or better yet physically disconnect batteries (lift negative lead(s) off terminal(s) (note a pair of GC-2 6 volt in series is ONE 12 volt battery so you lift only the most negative lead).

If you have shore power leave plugged in, hooked up and turned on.

Turn the battery switches off and let it be. If you have the option, consider a trickle charger each for house and chassis batteries. Starting the engine and letting it idle may actually do more harm that good if you don't run the engine long enough/hard enough to bring it up to operating temp. If you plan to crank it while it's in storage, take it for a spin....say 30 miles or so to make sure that the engine/transmission warm up enough to boil off any condensation that builds up while sitting in storage. If not, then you're essentially circulating water throughout the engine.