We have a 1999 Fleetwood class A motor home and once in awhile we tow our Toyota Tacoma truck. We do not have a supplement braking system for the tow vehicle is this a must? I looked into a few of them and there quite expensive with installation.

check out your state laws & the laws of the states you travel thru/to...most require systems on "trailers" either over 1,000lbs, or over 3,000 lbs... We use the Brakemaster system with our DP / air brakes.easy to hook up, works great...

Take a look at the ReadyBrute Elite towbar with integral braking. Do a search on these forums for ReadyBrute. I think you'll find a significant number of very pleased customers. This is an aluminum towbar with an inertial braking system built in. It is quite easy to hook up and remove. There is nothing in the tow vehicle but a cable that is attached to your brake pedal. People like it because there is nothing to go wrong. I've used it on most all of our trips - Rocky Mountains, Montana Dust, New England twisty roads, and in heavy downpours with great results. They also sell a "Protect-a-Tow" which is a very heavy mesh that attaches between the RV rear bumper and the toad front bumper. It traps all rocks from flying up between the RV and Toad. It works extremely well also. Good luck to you!

Take a look at the RVi2 brake. It's easy to use, portable and effective.

I have a cruise control motor on my toad, and the cable from it pulls the brake pedal to the floor, all for about $35. I took a cruise control motor off a junkyard Nissan, it is about 3" diameter, and fits under my dash easy. I had one from a Taurus on my Honda, and it was about 4" diameter, and pulled 'to hard' so the smaller diameter is actually OK. The cable goes to a bracket on my floor, then to a clamp on the brake pedal arm. It is attached about 2" above the brake pedal rubber pad. Lower and it will give more braking effort, higher and it has less leverage, so will offer less effort. Mine is "About right" and when driving down a long grade on a 2 lane highway, I 'rode the brakes' on my motorhome, applying them just enough to turn on the brake lights, and activate the vacuum solenoid that applies engine vacuum to the power brakes on my car. At the bottom of that hill (about 3 miles at 6% grade) there is a rest area, and I checked the brake rotor temps. They where acceptable. For the car, I have a 5' section of 3/8" air hose cut off a 50' long piece, and with the 3/8" air line connection at the end, with the tool end of a quick connect air fitting. It goes to a tee, then to the power brakes where there is a check valve, then another tee, and a check valve between this point and the engine, so that the car air intake does not leak air into the line when in the towing mode, but will allow free airflow into the car intake system (for power brakes while not towing). So air must leave the power brake reservoir towards the RV when towed, and towards the car engine while driving it, but not flow backwards in either case, so that you will not lose power brakes should the engine shut down while driving the Toy. The other side of that tee is to the vacuum solenoid, and then to the cruise control motor. It must be a 3 way solenoid (got it from a junkyard car too) and it will let in air to the CC motor to release it when the brake lights are off. Power from the brake pedal (not the turn signal) goes to the solenoid. Like from the third brake light (if you have one) or from the wire leaving the brake pedal switch and going up towards the turn signal switch. When brake lights are on, vacuum is applied to the CC motor, when off, then air can enter the CC motor to release it. Check it by finding the common fitting. It not marked, you can blow through 2 ports, then when applied 12 volts through two points. The Normally open is one, that will be closed when you have 12 volts, and is the air into the CC motor. The NC will not pass air when off, but passes vacuum into the CC motor while energized. Common port goes toward the CC motor, and is open to one while off and the other port when on.Sorry DP owners, it only works on gas engine RV's or those with a vacuum source. On my gas engine, I was able to find a 3/8" vacuum fitting. I took off the cap, and installed the other side of the 50' 3//8" hose. I tie wrapped it down well under the chassis to the frame, and kept it away from hot exhaust lines. The quick connect on the RV end does not pass vacuum when the engine is on in the RV (unless connected to the toad vacuum line), so you can still drive it while going without the toad. Good luck, and write back if you need me to talk about this. You might need to send me a PM, and I will share the details here. Fred.PS: While this has worked on my RV, I am not to sure it will work for anyone else. . ..

catsgalore wrote:We have a 1999 Fleetwood class A motor home and once in awhile we tow our Toyota Tacoma truck. We do not have a supplement braking system for the tow vehicle is this a must? I looked into a few of them and there quite expensive with installation.X2 rvi2 brake

Braking System for Tow Vehicle | Good Sam Community

mowermech
Explorer
Jun 19, 2015
"providense"??
Tntman
Explorer
Jun 19, 2015
I have read several articles about a providence in western Canada that people towing 4 down with no supplemental braking system being required to disconnect before continuing on their way. Maybe you don't live in that providence. Anyway, it was for informational purposes. With that said, do as you wish.
Jagtech
Explorer
Jun 19, 2015
Tntman wrote:
I just went through New Mexico and they have signs posted that ALL tow bars must stop for inspection. I wonder what they are looking g for? Also western Canada WILL make you disconnect your towed if you do not have a towed brake system.

Sorry, wrong info here. I live in "Western Canada", and there is no requirement to have a toad brake.
bobbyly
Explorer
Jun 18, 2015
I have Invisa brake and love it. Just plugin and go. I installed it myself in a wrangler and one in a liberty not that hard to do.
Tntman
Explorer
Jun 18, 2015
I just went through New Mexico and they have signs posted that ALL tow bars must stop for inspection. I wonder what they are looking g for? Also western Canada WILL make you disconnect your towed if you do not have a towed brake system.
msmith1199
Explorer II
Jun 17, 2015
tropical36 wrote:
msmith1199 wrote:
tropical36 wrote:
The heck with the laws and again, my only question ever was as to whether or not my rig would stop any quicker with a supplemental braking system and if the answer is yes, no matter how little the difference might be, then one is needed. As for my pick, the READYBRAKE beats all hands down for simplicity and cost effectiveness and is easily installed by most do it yourself types.

Your vehicle will stop faster with a tail hook and drag chute too, do you have those installed?

Didn't know that this type of equipment was made for, recommended by safety organizations or sold exclusively for RV use, but will look into it.
Thanks!

The only problem would be if you install a tailhook, you'll also have to installed an arresting cable anyplace you want to stop! :)
Squealers
Explorer
Jun 17, 2015
If you search online you can find some deals on the portable ready brake type systems that can be used in multiple tow vehicles. I have seen them as low as 200 dollars. Good investment for a system that probably originally sold for 1000 bucks. Check your local craigslist, ebay, and facebook for people getting out of RV'ing.
tropical36
Explorer
Jun 17, 2015
msmith1199 wrote:
tropical36 wrote:
The heck with the laws and again, my only question ever was as to whether or not my rig would stop any quicker with a supplemental braking system and if the answer is yes, no matter how little the difference might be, then one is needed. As for my pick, the READYBRAKE beats all hands down for simplicity and cost effectiveness and is easily installed by most do it yourself types.

Your vehicle will stop faster with a tail hook and drag chute too, do you have those installed?

Didn't know that this type of equipment was made for, recommended by safety organizations or sold exclusively for RV use, but will look into it.
Thanks!
427435
Explorer
Jun 17, 2015
Dutch_12078 wrote:
lovervn2 wrote:
I have the ready brake system with my Class A Sightseer 34' and Toyota 4Runner automatic with drive shaft disconnect. I am having one heck of a hard time getting it to work properly. It appears the brakes on the Toyota are not releasing. I have talked to the mfg. and they haven't been a lot of help. Said I needed the anti rattlers cuz there was too much play. That didn't work at all. I'm about ready to thro it in the ocean it has been such a hassle! Do you have any suggestions? The only thing that I wonder about is the break cable is not going down the middle thr the release lever on the top of to bar. Any help greatly appreciated!

Can you post some photos so we can see how you have it set up? The hook up cable should be running from the ReadyBrake actuating lever to the toad cable eye at the center of the toad grill in a straight line. When hooked up there should be just a small amount of slack in the cable.

X2

The only time my Ready Brake doesn't release is if I stop facing down hill. That will keep the brake lights on and kill the toad's battery. Other than that, it works great.
msmith1199
Explorer II
Jun 17, 2015
Sully2 wrote:
happy-2 wrote:
If you don't believe anyone just stop in a weigh station and ask CHP.

No guarantee the officer you speak to knows positively

As a retired California law enforcement officer, I can tell you this is 100% true. However, for a question like this you will have better luck asking a CHP Officer, even they don't know every single law from memory.