Braking System for Tow Vehicle

Not only do you have to check the laws of your State on towing brake systems but the States you plan to frequent to make sure your safe and legal. Some States have no laws but most do!

If you don't believe anyone just stop in a weigh station and ask CHP.

Some say a towed vehicle is a trailer, some say it is not, but if I really wanted to know, I would consult with legal counsel, I never take advice from internet forums on what is or not legal interpreted in a law.
Having said that, I look at it this way, a brake for your towed also allows you to stop in a shorter distance in case you need to, and if the toad become disconnected, it needs a way to stop before it hits and injures or kills someone. While disconnects are not common, they do happen. My conscience said get a brake, make sure it can apply the brakes in case of a disconnect, I did, and I use safety cables. Why some folks feel a life is worth less than the cost of a brake amazes me.

catsgalore wrote:
We have a 1999 Fleetwood class A motor home and once in awhile we tow our Toyota Tacoma truck. We do not have a supplement braking system for the tow vehicle is this a must? I looked into a few of them and there quite expensive with installation.

To answer your question, NO, you do not legally have to have supplemental braking on a VEHICLE in tow.
A VEHICLE in tow is NOT a trailer. If you check any state, you will see various requirements for brakes that are required on trailers.
Don't take my word for it. All you need to do is send an email to the state DOT or highway patrol, and you will get the same replies that I did. I had previously posted some of the replies that I received and the names of the officials that responded. A vehicle in tow does not require supplemental braking.
Now with that said, I do use the Blue Ox Patriot braking system on my toad and I can tell that I can stop quicker in an emergency. I also know that if my Blue Ox fails, I can still tow my toad LEGALLY to get the system repaired or replaced. I do not have to leave my toad behind.
Now that you have the facts, you can decide what is best for you.

catsgalore wrote:
We have a 1999 Fleetwood class A motor home and once in awhile we tow our Toyota Tacoma truck. We do not have a supplement braking system for the tow vehicle is this a must? I looked into a few of them and there quite expensive with installation.

X2 rvi2 brake

I have a cruise control motor on my toad, and the cable from it pulls the brake pedal to the floor, all for about $35.

I took a cruise control motor off a junkyard Nissan, it is about 3" diameter, and fits under my dash easy. I had one from a Taurus on my Honda, and it was about 4" diameter, and pulled 'to hard' so the smaller diameter is actually OK.

The cable goes to a bracket on my floor, then to a clamp on the brake pedal arm. It is attached about 2" above the brake pedal rubber pad. Lower and it will give more braking effort, higher and it has less leverage, so will offer less effort. Mine is "About right" and when driving down a long grade on a 2 lane highway, I 'rode the brakes' on my motorhome, applying them just enough to turn on the brake lights, and activate the vacuum solenoid that applies engine vacuum to the power brakes on my car. At the bottom of that hill (about 3 miles at 6% grade) there is a rest area, and I checked the brake rotor temps. They where acceptable.

For the car, I have a 5' section of 3/8" air hose cut off a 50' long piece, and with the 3/8" air line connection at the end, with the tool end of a quick connect air fitting. It goes to a tee, then to the power brakes where there is a check valve, then another tee, and a check valve between this point and the engine, so that the car air intake does not leak air into the line when in the towing mode, but will allow free airflow into the car intake system (for power brakes while not towing). So air must leave the power brake reservoir towards the RV when towed, and towards the car engine while driving it, but not flow backwards in either case, so that you will not lose power brakes should the engine shut down while driving the Toy.

The other side of that tee is to the vacuum solenoid, and then to the cruise control motor. It must be a 3 way solenoid (got it from a junkyard car too) and it will let in air to the CC motor to release it when the brake lights are off. Power from the brake pedal (not the turn signal) goes to the solenoid. Like from the third brake light (if you have one) or from the wire leaving the brake pedal switch and going up towards the turn signal switch. When brake lights are on, vacuum is applied to the CC motor, when off, then air can enter the CC motor to release it. Check it by finding the common fitting. It not marked, you can blow through 2 ports, then when applied 12 volts through two points. The Normally open is one, that will be closed when you have 12 volts, and is the air into the CC motor. The NC will not pass air when off, but passes vacuum into the CC motor while energized. Common port goes toward the CC motor, and is open to one while off and the other port when on.

Sorry DP owners, it only works on gas engine RV's or those with a vacuum source. On my gas engine, I was able to find a 3/8" vacuum fitting. I took off the cap, and installed the other side of the 50' 3//8" hose. I tie wrapped it down well under the chassis to the frame, and kept it away from hot exhaust lines. The quick connect on the RV end does not pass vacuum when the engine is on in the RV (unless connected to the toad vacuum line), so you can still drive it while going without the toad.

Good luck, and write back if you need me to talk about this. You might need to send me a PM, and I will share the details here.

Fred.

PS: While this has worked on my RV, I am not to sure it will work for anyone else. . ..

Take a look at the RVi2 brake. It's easy to use, portable and effective.

Take a look at the ReadyBrute Elite towbar with integral braking. Do a search on these forums for ReadyBrute. I think you'll find a significant number of very pleased customers. This is an aluminum towbar with an inertial braking system built in. It is quite easy to hook up and remove. There is nothing in the tow vehicle but a cable that is attached to your brake pedal. People like it because there is nothing to go wrong. I've used it on most all of our trips - Rocky Mountains, Montana Dust, New England twisty roads, and in heavy downpours with great results. They also sell a "Protect-a-Tow" which is a very heavy mesh that attaches between the RV rear bumper and the toad front bumper. It traps all rocks from flying up between the RV and Toad. It works extremely well also.

Good luck to you!

check out your state laws & the laws of the states you travel thru/to...most require systems on "trailers" either over 1,000lbs, or over 3,000 lbs... We use the Brakemaster system with our DP / air brakes.easy to hook up, works great...