Car trailer versus flat towing

Well the OP hasn't been back to comment. I think it is great all those who jump in and brag about their ability to back in a trailer. The OP wanted the best way to tow. Given that he has a CR-V that would be 4 down. In the last 75 days I have been in about 45 campgrounds. I have found no place where there was enough space to park a motorhome trailer and car on a site. I was in a couple that you couldn't fit a 38ft motorhome and the car on the site. Why tell him to get a trailer that would unnecessarily complicate the process and limit the campgrounds he can use.
Bill

kmc--that guy didn't know what he was doing.....My trailer is 32ft long and DP is 38. I back in my driveway, 90 degree turn, and right into my spot most times in one shot----most times. Many times I do this in the dark. But if you aren't sure---get out and look your self and always move slowly. I have done this a lot and wouldn't expect someone that does it once a year to do it as well. Also the longer the trailer the easier it is to back up. As far as towing a trailer---they can be had with a longer "motor home" tongue so it won't wreck your coach.......

One small thought in addition, either the 4 down or trailer, I suggest a tire pressure monitor system.
Have a friend with a Eagle Bus Conversion, who towed his Ford Bronco, the left front tire went flat somewhere, he did not notice, eventually the state police stopped him, the wheel had locked up, ground down into the axle tube, brake rotor, hub, and axle shaft. He sold it to the wrecker driver CHEAP. Just a thought. He now has a monitor setup, you bet.
Dave M

lighthousemantn wrote:
We own a 35 foot Allegro Open Road Class A and our toad is a Honda CR-V. We're trying to decide whether to buy a car trailer or the tow plate, braking system, etc to flat tow the toad. I would like to get some input from the forum on how difficult/expensive it would be to find a campsite long enough for the MH, the 25 foot trailer, and the car if it was unloaded from the trailer. As always, thanks so much for your input.

I use a car hauler but for most people I think 4 down is much easier. I haul a Jeep that sees some decent 4 wheeling and if I break something I need a way to get it back home. I also use the extra space to haul a spare tire for the motorhome, firewood, etc.

I'm still unloading the trailer when my '4 down' friends are unhitched and having a cold one!

Finding a space for the motorhome, trailer and car is doable but you will pay more (~$15 more per night) and I don't see the trailer giving you enough of an advantage to make it worth paying the extra cost.

docj,
I do not assume anything. I just provide information. My decision to use a trailer was based on years of personal experience and the decision made 36,000 miles in one year of travel a dream with the car on a trailer behind the RV.
kcmoe,
Imagine if they were flat towing. The damage would have been just as bad.

Kcmoedoe,
Like the old fact/saying, you can't fix STUPID, But it does bring some chuckles.
Dave M

mci7 wrote:
As I see it, the only advantage using a trailer, you can back up. Other wise flat towing is my choice and always pay attention to where I pull into for escaping.

Yes, you can back up, but at what cost? Just last week a guy was maneuvering into a site near me. He had a 40+ footer and probably a 25 foot enclosed trailer painted to match. Apparently he decided he wasn't properly lined up for the pull thru site, so he had his wife get out and direct him in reverse. About 30 seconds into this procedure, the rhythmic hum of his diesel engine was punctuated by the sound of cracking fiberglass and bending metal. His wife did an amazing job not allowing the trailer to threaten any objects, but someone failed to account for the jackknifed trailer squashing the rear quarter panel of the motorhome. Thankfully the damage was spread out across both the trailer and the motorhome, so they still match beautifully.

We run a 38ft 4 slide HR, tow a 20 ft enclosed trailer with a mini 2 scooters bikes etc. The war dept. spends a little extra Internet phone and Google work prior to selecting a park. Have learned the hard way that not all "Big Rig" parks really are.
Just starting FT but so far it all works.
Jw

randallb wrote:

Top of the line aluminum 6.5 x 14, 7000# trailer (1000# trailer weight); no vehicle wear, a tool that can be used for numerous jobs around the house with an initial cost of $5200.

That assumes, of course, you aren't a full-timer and have other uses for a trailer.

Flat towing; vehicle tire, bearing wear, and driveline wear with initial cost of approximately $2600.00
Dolly; 1/2 the vehicle tire and bearing wear with an initial cost of $800-$2200
Top of the line aluminum 6.5 x 14, 7000# trailer (1000# trailer weight); no vehicle wear, a tool that can be used for numerous jobs around the house with an initial cost of $5200. Loading and unloading time of about 5 minutes.
It is your decision but I will pull a trailer and I never had a problem at a CG. One time in northern MS we had to leave it in the big main parking lot because the CG was set up for crappie fisherman, the sites were small and everyone left their boats and trailers in this lot.
Randy