I have a 2000 Coachman Catalina 330 mbs and the Chasis battery is not being charged by the converter all of a sudden. I have had this coach for3 years and it has always kept all of the batteries charged when plugged in to shore power, but toward the end of last season I noticed that the chasis battery was not being maintained. The battery will charge from the altinator but will slowly drain down during periods of more than 3 weeks or so without running the coach, and the coach batteries are still being maintained by the converter. Owners manual says that use/store switch must be in use for chasis battery to charge from converter and when I press the switch to use I hear what sounds like a solenoid click but when I release the switch it click again which seems unusual to me. Any ideas are greatly appreciated and thanks in advance for your input.

As a work around while you're figuring out what's wrong:Had the same problem with my '94 Bounder, which had that big BCC (Battery control Center) I priced out and found it was very expensive. Plus I didn't know if that was the problem.What I did, to hurry things along so I could enjoy the RV rather than immediately start fixing or replacing major components, was to install a Schumacher Float Charger. Back in '04 they were only $20, and the Bounder's battery compartment had a nearby electrical outlet in a basement compartment I used to power it. It was a set and forget kind of deal because it was permanently attached to the battery and once I arrived at a campground, plugging into shore power would keep the chassis battery charged.As a result, I didn't get around to trying to figure out what was wrong in the BCC until years later. Having too much fun traveling so never got 'round2it'. Turned out my Bounders BCC wasn't involved with charging the chassis battery except for controlling the puny solar charger on the roof and passing the charging current on to the chassis batts. Which is typical for millions of RVs.When I bought this '02 Journey, I soon checked the voltage on the chassis batts when plugged into shore, and sure enough, voltage there indicated there was NO trickle charging going on. In this case, there wasn't a handy 120V outlet nearby, so I installed the Trik-L-Start. This device just borrows some power from the House batts to keep the chassis batts charged up.What I'm saying is that it's often easier to just install a Trik-L-Start or some other inexpensive charger for the chassis batts than to track down and fix a non-functioning charger. And often much less expensive.

As said above, I suspect that yours, like mine and many others does not charge the chassis battery(s) when plugged into shore power. You probably never noticed it because the battery had enough capacity to hold its own until you cranked the engine and moved on to the next destination. As its aged, it loses a charge easier and therefore starts to die while camping.I installed a Batter Tender that is connected to the battery and plugs in to a 120VAC outlet in the coach. The outlet I used is the one for the old TV set that was in the dash. It has an interlock system built in so it is not powered when the engine is running. That works out great so that the alternator and the Battery Tender is not competing against each other when I am underway with the generator running. But, with the engine shut off, and either on shore power or gen power, I am now charging the chassis battery.

10forty2 wrote:As said above, I suspect that yours, like mine and many others does not charge the chassis battery(s) when plugged into shore power. He said that his did before. So does mine.....now.....after replacing the "battery solenoid" which I assume is a common problem 'cause I've had bad ones on my last two units.If that solenoid is bad (usually burnt contacts), other things won't work either......like the emergency start which cranks the engine from the house batteries and house battery charging from the chassis when going down the road.I think parts and labor was around $100 in both cases.

Capone wrote:I have a 2000 Coachman Catalina 330 mbs and the Chasis battery is not being charged by the converter all of a sudden. I have had this coach for3 years and it has always kept all of the batteries charged when plugged in to shore power, but toward the end of last season I noticed that the chasis battery was not being maintained. The battery will charge from the altinator but will slowly drain down during periods of more than 3 weeks or so without running the coach, and the coach batteries are still being maintained by the converter. Owners manual says that use/store switch must be in use for chasis battery to charge from converter and when I press the switch to use I hear what sounds like a solenoid click but when I release the switch it click again which seems unusual to me. Any ideas are greatly appreciated and thanks in advance for your input.Capone, (nice user name) This is why when I have friends that acquire a new coach, I try and get them to really learn how things work on them. The charging system(s) on RVs, varies greatly. Gas coaches do it a few different ways and diesels, the same. You may have something as simple as a fuse that's blown. The smartest item that many of us have purchased and learned to use with even modest knowledge, is a VOLT OHM METER. They can be a big help in checking many systems on these rolling Kleenex boxes on wheels. To use them in battery checking is invaluable. They can tell you right off the bat, just about anything voltage related in batteries. Now, they can often tell you what's broke. Albeit certain other checks need to be made in order for that to take place. For instance, you pushed on a switch, made a potential "solenoid" click but, when you let off, it clicked again which, may or may not be your issue. Again, this is where it pays to learn about certain things on all of our coaches. Sometimes looking things up in manuals is not the most entertaining way to spend an afternoon but, it sure can come in handy if and when a malfunction occurs. What I'm getting at is, if you have any manuals, on any of your electrical components, i.e. converter, converter/charger etc., they might lead you to test an item or two which, in most cases, takes only a minute or two. Then, if you're lucky, and you find a bad "solenoid" etc., a local trip to an RV supply or even an Auto parts store might be in order. Scott

Chassis battery won’t charge from converter | Good Sam Community

BigRabbitMan
Explorer
Mar 23, 2018
I put a heavy duty manual disconnect switch on my chassis batteries. When I park the coach, I disconnect the chassis batteries. They are always ready to go when I am ready and that can be several months later.
jerseyjim
Explorer
Mar 21, 2018
As mentioned before, my chassis (engine start) battery is charged by the alternator. Only. So, you gotta run the engine to keep the charge up. However, when the engine is running, that ALSO charges the coach batteries.

I have a Trik-l-Charge and it works great. UNTIL....it discharges the coach batteries to make them not work.(Yeah, I know...there is supposed to be a "fail-safe here, but......)

I found the best way to use the Trik-l-Charge is when snowbirding...and the coach does not move for months.
Then, you are on shore power....that does charge the coach batteries, then the Trik-L-Charger can work and keep the 12V chassis battery charged.
wildmanbaker
Explorer
Mar 20, 2018
I believe that Fleetwood MHs from 95 on should charge the chassis battery when on shore power, or running the generator. Other manufactures have caught up, but it was slow. If you contact the manufacture, they may be able to sent you the 12 volt prints, or point you to where they may be online. It will just take time troubleshooting to find the problem.
Sam_Spade
Explorer
Mar 19, 2018
Capone wrote:
so adding a trickle charger is my plan for resolution.

A "trickle charger" is NOT the solution for long term storage. They tend to float at too high a voltage and can be worse than nothing.

You need small AUTOMATIC tender type battery maintainer.
Joe_and_Lori
Explorer
Mar 19, 2018
I am finding similar issues. My 99 Rex haul ford chassis would not seem to charge chassis battery but then it seemed to start. Were full timing now and I notice more than before. But just the other day the chassis battery went dead while plugged in. I charged it up and now I notice what I think is the battery parallel solenoid cycling on and off. It does not do it all the time. Is that how it charges the chassis battery by activating the battery solenoid?
wvabeer
Explorer
Mar 19, 2018
According to my 99 Newmar manual it says.
The coach and chassis batteries are recharged by the vehicle's electrical system whenever the engine is running. A decline in the coach battery voltage may be noticed while the chassis batteries are being charged. The converter will automatically charge the coach batteries when the unit is connected to a 120 volt outside source. The chassis batteries are isolated from the coach batteries. This prevents the chassis batteries from being drained by the interior 12 volt equipment, allowing ample voltage for the engine ignition.
Capone
Explorer
Mar 19, 2018
Even though my owners manual specifically states the chasis battery will only be charged when the disconnect switch is in the use position, and for the first two years we owned the coach the battery had no problem staying charged even after two months of not being used, I am starting to believe that the coach battery is not charged by the converter so adding a trickle charger is my plan for resolution.
mowermech
Explorer
Mar 19, 2018
In my lifetime I have owned three Class A motorhomes (1977, 1988, and 2002) and one Class C (1995).
None of them charged the chassis battery from the converter. The chassis battery was charged by the engine alternator ONLY.
The engines were a 440 Dodge, a 454 GM, a Ford V10, and in the Class C a Ford 460.
D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Mar 18, 2018
CA Traveler wrote:
11.8V is a severely discharged battery. At 2 hours of charging it should be in the 13V+ range headed towards a bulk charge of 14.8V.

When you resolve the charging load test the batteries.

Load test is my suggestion too. I had a mode switch(Battery Boost) solenoid. Showed 223.0 ohms when closed. High resistance for a switch and it wasn't testing good with the load test meter, new solenoid and battery, works great.
wvabeer
Explorer
Mar 18, 2018
I am having this problem too.

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Chassis battery won’t charge from converter

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