Class A versus 5th Wheel for Boondocking
Hi All Right now, we are trying to decide on whether to buy a Class A or a 5er. I've read a lot of other posts that compare the pros and cons of each but there's one area that is not commented on i...
Forum Discussion
Hi,
I have considered a "Toyhauler" for a full time RV. While a little more difficult to hook up and move than moving a class A, it does offer a lot of space for the money, and has a lower insurance rate.
Also consider a F-350 instead of a F-450, it's insurance rate might be really high, because it is considered a commercial vehilce by most insurance companies. You can find some insurance companies that know what full timing is all about, and will offer decent rates. Yes many do install a second tank in the bed of a F-350 dually, and carry an additional 50 gallons. At 9 MPG while towing, the standard 35 gallon tank does not last a really long time.
Toyhaulers normally will come with a generator, can be set up with 2 A/C units, normally will have 60+ gallons of fresh water, sometimes have 60 gallon grey water tanks, washer / dryer hookups, and I saw one toyhauler with dual 100 gallon freshwater tanks. Still it has a 60 gallon gray tank, that is fine with me, as I would normally dry camp in a area that the plants "Need" the water, and I let the gray water out on the ground all the time. But not in National Parks, or campgrounds where the neighbors are within 75' of each other.
You can extend the time between dumping tanks while in a campground by washing dishes in a dishpan, and dispose of that the same way the tent campers do, or pour it down the toilet, or save a gallon in a old jug to use to flush the toilet.
With a class A, it is really easy to push the "Jacks up" button, and drive a mile or so to the nearby dump station. I have a 1997 Bounder Class A, that I bought new. The generator dip tube only goes into the tank 3/4 way, so it can not draw from the bottom 1/4 tank, and you shuold have enough fuel to drive and buy more before running out.
Diesel motorhomes might have a "Aqua Hot" water heating boiler, that provides non-stop hot water, as well as heating the floors, or using engine heat to do the same job. They draw a tiny amount of diesel from the tank, about 1/2 gallon per hour at 60,000 Btu's per hour. But a shower or to reheat will not take ahour, so actual use is about 1 gallon per night when it is cool out, a bit more when freezing temps.
Overall what is better? I guess you would have to try both and see. I have a class A, and try to see how nice it would be to have a larger fifth wheel. However what stops me is the convience of having a small towed car, to go sightseeing with it, and the ease to move the RV around. I can pull into a small town, seek out the local school or church (not on Saturday night, you might get stuck in traffic Sunday morning), put down the jacks, close the curtains, and go to sleep. Usually very quiet.
How can I tell you what to buy? Well lets just say a large group of ful timers that I knew and used to travel with - most had class A motorhome, or class C motorhome. Some had a travel trailer or fifth wheel, and a couple of them where in very compact class B. I think one was in a camper.
The fastest ones to get set up and ready to roll in the morning where the class A and C with jacks. Without jacks, they have to shut off the refrigerator when not level, and put away the blocks every morning. You can drive with the refrigerator not level, the ammonia mixture still returns to the boiler while moving. It is stopped and not level that can create a problem, and overheat the boiler, and cause the ammonia to plug up the orifaces.
You might also be interested in "Dingy towing". If you get a class A, consider a dingy to take along for sightseeing trips. While not required, it is handy to not put away everything each time you want to go to the supermarket, or go to a sightseeing location.
Fred.
I have considered a "Toyhauler" for a full time RV. While a little more difficult to hook up and move than moving a class A, it does offer a lot of space for the money, and has a lower insurance rate.
Also consider a F-350 instead of a F-450, it's insurance rate might be really high, because it is considered a commercial vehilce by most insurance companies. You can find some insurance companies that know what full timing is all about, and will offer decent rates. Yes many do install a second tank in the bed of a F-350 dually, and carry an additional 50 gallons. At 9 MPG while towing, the standard 35 gallon tank does not last a really long time.
Toyhaulers normally will come with a generator, can be set up with 2 A/C units, normally will have 60+ gallons of fresh water, sometimes have 60 gallon grey water tanks, washer / dryer hookups, and I saw one toyhauler with dual 100 gallon freshwater tanks. Still it has a 60 gallon gray tank, that is fine with me, as I would normally dry camp in a area that the plants "Need" the water, and I let the gray water out on the ground all the time. But not in National Parks, or campgrounds where the neighbors are within 75' of each other.
You can extend the time between dumping tanks while in a campground by washing dishes in a dishpan, and dispose of that the same way the tent campers do, or pour it down the toilet, or save a gallon in a old jug to use to flush the toilet.
With a class A, it is really easy to push the "Jacks up" button, and drive a mile or so to the nearby dump station. I have a 1997 Bounder Class A, that I bought new. The generator dip tube only goes into the tank 3/4 way, so it can not draw from the bottom 1/4 tank, and you shuold have enough fuel to drive and buy more before running out.
Diesel motorhomes might have a "Aqua Hot" water heating boiler, that provides non-stop hot water, as well as heating the floors, or using engine heat to do the same job. They draw a tiny amount of diesel from the tank, about 1/2 gallon per hour at 60,000 Btu's per hour. But a shower or to reheat will not take ahour, so actual use is about 1 gallon per night when it is cool out, a bit more when freezing temps.
Overall what is better? I guess you would have to try both and see. I have a class A, and try to see how nice it would be to have a larger fifth wheel. However what stops me is the convience of having a small towed car, to go sightseeing with it, and the ease to move the RV around. I can pull into a small town, seek out the local school or church (not on Saturday night, you might get stuck in traffic Sunday morning), put down the jacks, close the curtains, and go to sleep. Usually very quiet.
How can I tell you what to buy? Well lets just say a large group of ful timers that I knew and used to travel with - most had class A motorhome, or class C motorhome. Some had a travel trailer or fifth wheel, and a couple of them where in very compact class B. I think one was in a camper.
The fastest ones to get set up and ready to roll in the morning where the class A and C with jacks. Without jacks, they have to shut off the refrigerator when not level, and put away the blocks every morning. You can drive with the refrigerator not level, the ammonia mixture still returns to the boiler while moving. It is stopped and not level that can create a problem, and overheat the boiler, and cause the ammonia to plug up the orifaces.
You might also be interested in "Dingy towing". If you get a class A, consider a dingy to take along for sightseeing trips. While not required, it is handy to not put away everything each time you want to go to the supermarket, or go to a sightseeing location.
Fred.
