Damon Ultrasport- Too good to be true?

Somebody here was just looking at one of those, by Year and Brand. Passed on it because the sidewalls were badly delaminated.

Thanks so much everyone for all the wonderful advice! December was too busy for me to get back to this before now. I really appreciate your comments. Using the information you gave us we did ask a few more questions to the seller but the vehicle was sold before we had much of a chance to decide anything. Oh well, I still found out loads of useful things from you all so it was worth it ^_^
Thanks again,
AmyA

Hi Amy:

I agree with the earlier posts since leaks are the mortal enemy of RVs. A couple of other things to ponder: Has routine maint. been maintained on the truck even if the RV was little used? If the RV has a generator, has the genset been run under load 1-2 hours per month as recommended by the manufacturer? Finally, no matter how good the tires look, they will need to be replaced if they are over 5-6 years old.

Hope you have found a great unit.

Bob

Not about Damon vs other builders, most mass production C's were built pretty much the same in early 90's and no, the price is not too good to be true.

At 20 years, you are falling to "floor" prices on depreciation schedules, and the value depends pretty much on utility, i.e. condition of the house first, and mileage and condition of the chassis second.

Question would not be "is it prone to leak?" because at 20 years any RV could have leaked. The question needs to be "has this one leaked and been damaged." If it has, expensive repairs. If it hasn't, then you do the maintenance that prevents leaks, and use it.

When I was looking 10 years ago, most early to mid 1980's C's were in the $3500 to $8000 price range. And most were in pretty shabby condition, something really cherry could draw $5000 more, way above Bluebook based on model year depreciation.

You need to inspect it, as an expert, to know if it is too good to be true. My experience shopping, when were priced low, they were in rough condition. Ended up boosting my budget to buy "almost new" condition.

People use mileage as a basic for measurement for motorhomes a lot and in my opinion is completely useless. You need to evaluate two things on a motorhome; 1) the chassis and 2) the house. The chassis is important but not nearly as important as the house.

Just make sure you evaluate the two according to your needs.

Check that the underside of the overhead is nice and solid, push up on the corners and if they move up any amount, also tap on the bottom if there is any rot the sound will change from a solid to a dull thudd, indicating mushy or roten materiel if so walk away from an expensive repair.

Should the corners move it means that there is a leak on the windows or marker lights, roof and is getting the frame wet, probably wood has now rotted away, also check the shower floor if any part of the floor feels musy it means rotten floor.

The engine, transmission and all else from the vehicle can be repaired, at a reasonable price, the wood and frame part of the coach can be a bottomless money pit.

If everything else checks ok you maybe on to something good.

Good luck.

navegator

navegator

Well, here is a 1991 for only $4995....HERE

What's the saying? "If its to good to be true, it ______ __". But seriously, a 22yr old MH with only 9700 miles, That's about 450 miles per year ????.
Thoroughly check out the roof and all body components for signs of water penetrations, soft spots, dry rot etc. Also completely check chassis. Rusted componets dry rotted rubber, brake lines, tires etc.
I can't comment on price

Beverley&Ken